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                <title>Letter to Thomas Maclear</title>
 				<title type="alternative">Letter to Thomas Maclear, 15 February, 2 March 1856</title><!-- Change -->
                <author>David Livingstone</author>
                <principal>Adrian S. Wisnicki</principal>
                <principal>Megan Ward</principal>
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                    <name>Adrian S. Wisnicki</name>
                    <resp>Coding review</resp>
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                <publisher>University of Maryland Libraries</publisher>
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                <date>2017</date><!-- Change if necessary -->
                <idno type="LEAP-ID">liv_000877</idno>
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                        <settlement>Cape Town</settlement><!-- Change as needed -->
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                            <handNote xml:id="U"><label>Unknown Hand</label> This hand is unknown
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                    <title type="alternative">Letter to Thomas Maclear, 15 February, 2 March 1856</title><!-- Change -->
                    <author xml:id="DL">David Livingstone</author>
                    <date type="composition" when="1856-03-02">2 March 1856</date><!-- Change -->
                    <placeName type="compositionPlace">Near Tete or Nyunkwe-Tete</placeName><!-- Change -->
                    <persName type="addressee">Thomas Maclear</persName><!-- Change -->
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<opener>
<lb/><add place="inline" rend="gray" hand="#U">5) -</add> <space extent="12" unit="words"/><add place="inline" rend="gray" hand="#U">33.1</add>
<lb/><dateline><space extent="8" unit="words"/><placeName>Near <placeName><settlement type="town">Tete</settlement></placeName> or <placeName>Nyunkwe</placeName></placeName> on
<lb/><space extent="7" unit="words"/>the river <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> <date when="1856-02-15">15<hi rend="sup underline">th</hi> <choice><abbr>Feby</abbr><expan>February</expan></choice> 1856</date></dateline>
<lb/>    
<lb/><space extent="2" unit="chars"/><persName>Thomas Maclear, Esquire</persName>
<lb/>
<lb/><space extent="6" unit="words"/><space extent="2" unit="chars"/>My Dear Sir
</opener>

<lb/><p><space extent="9" unit="words"/>If a note sent by way of
<lb/><placeName><country>Angola</country></placeName> reached its destination you will be aware of my having
<lb/>returned again to <placeName><settlement type="village">Linyanti</settlement></placeName> - so little time was allowed by
<lb/>my <orgName>Arab</orgName> <term type="occupation">postman</term> for writing I could not send all the
<lb/>observations made in the <placeName><region>North</region></placeName>. But those which remained
<lb/>unsent refer chiefly to places of little interest as <placeName><settlement type="town">Bango</settlement></placeName>,
<lb/>a town South East of <placeName>Kabango</placeName> - <placeName><settlement type="town">Town of <persName>Shinté</persName></settlement></placeName> or
<lb/><placeName>Kabompo</placeName> - confluences of the <placeName><geogName type="river">Loéti</geogName></placeName> &amp; <placeName><geogName type="river">Njoko</geogName></placeName> - <add place="below">^</add> <add place="above"><placeName><settlement type="town">Town of</settlement></placeName></add> <placeName><settlement type="village">Sesheké</settlement></placeName> - &amp;c -
<lb/>the present letter is therefore intended to give you some
<lb/>idea of the <placeName><region>country East of <placeName><settlement type="village">Linyanti</settlement></placeName></region></placeName>, so that
<lb/>performing your dry calculations you may have
<lb/>something else for the imagination than the very
<lb/>interesting powers of p = x<hi rend="sup">2</hi> &amp;c. &amp;c.</p>
<lb/><p>We descended the <placeName><geogName type="river">Leeambye</geogName></placeName> from <placeName><settlement type="village">Sesheke</settlement></placeName> in <date when="1855-11">November
<lb/>last</date> in company with a large convoy of <term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Makololo</orig><reg>Kololo</reg></choice></term> - the
<lb/>confluence of the <placeName><geogName type="river">Chobe</geogName></placeName> and it is about <add place="below">^</add> <add place="above"><measure>15</measure> or</add> <measure>20 miles</measure> below <placeName><settlement type="village">Sesheké</settlement></placeName>
<lb/>but I could get no observation - the new moon peeped out
<lb/>from among the clouds enough only to let us know it must
<lb/>have been visible but for clouds the night before. <measure>About ten
<lb/>miles lower down</measure> we came to the beginning of the rapids
<lb/>which end in <placeName><geogName type="waterfall"><choice><orig>Mosioatunya</orig><reg>Mosi oa tunya</reg></choice></geogName></placeName>. Leaving the canoes we now
<lb/>marched <measure>about twenty miles</measure> along the bank to <placeName><geogName type="island">Kalai</geogName></placeName>,
<lb/>otherwise named the <placeName><geogName type="island">island of <persName><choice><orig>Sekaté</orig><reg>Sekute</reg></choice></persName></geogName></placeName>. As it was decided
<lb/>by those who know the country well through which the river
<lb/>flows in front that we should avoid the hilly country
<lb/>there both on account of <term type="insect">tsetse</term> and the ruggedness of
<lb/>the path, and turn away to the North East to meet the
<lb/>river when it has become placid again, I took a canoe
<lb/>at <placeName><geogName type="island">Kalai</geogName></placeName> and went down to see the most wonderful
<lb/>sight I have seen in <placeName><bloc>Africa</bloc></placeName> - the "smoke-sounding"
<lb/>falls of the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Leeamby</orig><reg>Leeambye</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> or <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> - the direction was <!-- geog: Mosi-oa-tunya -->
<lb/><choice><abbr>S.S.E</abbr><expan>South-Southeast</expan></choice> and the distance <measure>7 or 8 miles</measure> from <placeName><geogName type="island">Kalai</geogName></placeName> - I
<lb/>mention this because all the observations were made
<lb/>at the latter spot - When within <measure>six miles</measure> of the falls <!-- geog: Mosi-oa-tunya -->


	<pb facs="liv_000877_0002" n="0002"/>
<lb/>Five or six columns of vapour are seen ascending exactly
<lb/>as occurs in extensive grass burnings in <placeName><bloc>Africa</bloc></placeName> - and
<lb/>close behind them stands a range of low <choice><sic>tree covered</sic><corr>tree-covered</corr></choice> hills.
<lb/>The River is here of great breadth - probably <measure>a thousand yards</measure> <!-- geog: River Zambesi -->
<lb/>and covered with islands of great beauty in consequence
<lb/>of being clothed with magnificent masses of <placeName><geogName type="forest">Tropical Forest</geogName></placeName>.
<lb/>When close to the falls we got a little light canoe and men <!-- geog: Mosi-oa-tunya -->
<lb/>well acquainted with the eddies in the <choice><sic>fast flowing</sic><corr>fast-flowing</corr></choice> water
<lb/>and went to an island situated in the middle of the
<lb/>river and edge of the lip over which the broad
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> rolls. This cannot be done except when
<lb/>the water is low - creeping to the verge we peer down
<lb/>into a <unclear><choice><orig>gulph</orig><reg>gulf</reg></choice></unclear> from which an immense body of vapour
<lb/>rushes up and find it is a rent made in the
<lb/>hard basaltic bed from bank to bank - and the
<lb/>river of <measure>a thousand yards</measure> leaps down <measure>a hundred
<lb/>feet</measure> and is suddenly compressed at the bottom
<lb/>into <measure>fifteen or twenty</measure> Excuse my using the
<lb/>same language to you as I do in trying to convey
<lb/>an idea of the thing to some of my friends native
<lb/>of the island called <placeName><geogName type="island">Anglia</geogName></placeName> - If we imagine the <placeName><geogName type="river">Thames</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>filled with low <choice><sic>tree covered</sic><corr>tree-covered</corr></choice> hills from the <w>Tunne<gap extent="1" unit="chars"/><supplied>l</supplied></w>
<lb/>to <placeName><settlement type="town">Gravesend</settlement></placeName> - the bed of hard basaltic rock instead
<lb/>of <placeName><settlement type="city">London</settlement></placeName> mud and a rent or <choice><orig>fizzure</orig><reg>fissure</reg></choice> made therein
<lb/>from one end of the tunnel to the other down through
<lb/>the keystones of the arch - and the pathway <measure>100 feet
<lb/>from the surface</measure> instead of what it is - If we
<lb/>suppose farther the rent having its lips <measure>from 60 to 80
<lb/>feet apart</measure> and prolonged from the left hand bank
<lb/>away to <placeName><settlement type="town">Gravesend</settlement></placeName> - and the <placeName><geogName type="river">Thames</geogName></placeName> leaping bodily
<lb/>into the <unclear><choice><orig>gulph</orig><reg>gulf</reg></choice></unclear> - forced to change its course and
<lb/>flow in the narrow space at the bottom from the
<lb/>right to the left bank - then turn a corner and go
<lb/>boiling and roaring through the hills - And we have
<lb/>something of what takes place with the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName>.
<lb/>When it emerges <measure>30 or 40 miles distant</measure> from its place
<lb/>of confinement it flows broad and placid again
<lb/>away to the <choice><abbr>N.N.E.</abbr><expan>North-northeast</expan></choice> or <unclear><choice><abbr>N - E.</abbr><expan>Northeast</expan></choice></unclear> till it reaches the
<lb/><measure>Latitude of 15° 37' South</measure> - I have said <measure>100 feet
<lb/>deep</measure> but this requires explanation - When looking
<lb/>at the perpendicular walls of the <choice><orig>fizzure</orig><reg>fissure</reg></choice> we see
<lb/>the opposite lip has a straight edge, while that
<lb/>over which the water tumbles is serrated partly


	<pb facs="liv_000877_0003" n="0003"/>
<lb/>because a little worn by the torrent and partly because several
<lb/>pieces have fallen <unclear cert="low">in</unclear>. Looking down on the right of the
<lb/>island where most of the <subst><del>water</del> <add place="above">stream</add></subst> precipitates itself at low water
<lb/>we see a dense white cloud only with two bright rainbows
<lb/>on it - (It was at midday we visited it &amp; the Declination of the
<lb/>sun and Latitude of the place about equal) On the left a
<lb/>large piece has fallen in and from that appearing above
<lb/>the foam I conjecture the depth. The vapour rushes
<lb/>up with a force sufficient to lick up completely several
<lb/>little rills which run down from the other side into the
<lb/><choice><orig>fizzure</orig><reg>fissure</reg></choice> &amp; When it reaches <measure>300 or 400 feet in height</measure> it loses
<lb/>its steam colour and becomes dark to descend in a
<lb/><subst><del>sharp</del> <add place="above">smart</add></subst> shower which soon wets one to the skin - the falls <!-- geog: Mosi-oa-tunya -->
<lb/>were formerly used as places of worship by three <term type="occupation">chiefs</term>
<lb/>who then lived in the vicinity - the constant roar must
<lb/>have inspired feelings of awe - When the river is in flood <!-- geog: River Zambesi -->
<lb/>it is said <seg type="weather">to sound like distant thunder <measure>ten miles off</measure></seg> -
<lb/>Trade does not seem to have extended itself to these parts
<lb/>for one of these <choice><sic><term type="occupation">chieftains</term></sic><corr><term type="occupation">chieftains</term>'</corr></choice> graves may now be seen
<lb/>on <placeName><geogName type="island">Kalai</geogName></placeName> ornamented with seventy large <term type="animal">elephants</term>'
<lb/>tusks planted round it - there are thirty over the
<lb/>resting places of <orgName>his relatives</orgName> Indeed through the whole
<lb/><placeName><region><term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Batoka</orig><reg>Toka-Leya</reg></choice></term> country</region></placeName> ivory was employed to make bracelets and
<lb/>gravestones only. <seg type="weather">Sun and rain</seg> soon rot them. The
<lb/><term type="occupation">chiefs</term> had too a great love for "ornamenting" their towns
<lb/>with human skulls - I counted between fifty and sixty such
<lb/>mounted on poles in one village - they were rooted out
<lb/>of their island fastnesses by <persName>Sebituane</persName>.</p>
<lb/><p>Our route then led us away to the North East <choice><sic>untill</sic><corr>until</corr></choice>
<lb/>we reached the hills through which the <placeName><geogName type="river">Bashukulompo river</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>flows before joining the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> - It is called <placeName><geogName type="river">Kahowhé</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>and farther down the river <placeName><geogName type="river">Kafué</geogName></placeName> &amp; <placeName><geogName type="river">Kafurwé</geogName></placeName>.
<lb/>Pursuing our course along the left bank we came among
<lb/><term type="insect">Tsetse</term> and lost all our <term type="animal_foodstuff">oxen</term> except two untaught ones, so
<lb/>I have to march on foot - the usual mode of travelling
<lb/>is by canoes and there being no pathway boreing continually
<lb/>through tangled thorny jungle is excesssively tedious -
<lb/><measure>About 1° below the confluence</measure> of the <placeName><geogName type="river">Kafué</geogName></placeName> we came
<lb/>to that of the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Loangua</orig><reg>Luangwa</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> (<placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig><orig>Loangwa</orig><reg>Loangua</reg></orig><reg>Luangwa</reg></choice></geogName></placeName>) both of which <add place="below">^</add> <add place="above">streams</add> are
<lb/>said to form but one river in the <placeName><region>North West</region></placeName> - the
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="river">Kafue</geogName></placeName> is about <measure>300 yards broad</measure> - the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Loangua</orig><reg>Luangwa</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> double
<lb/>that but being in flood when we crossed it the
<lb/>actual distance <choice><sic>accross</sic><corr>across</corr></choice> the ford was at least <measure>half a mile</measure>
<lb/>We found the ruins of a church exactly at the confluence

	<pb facs="liv_000877_0004" n="0004"/>
<lb/>A building on a hill on the opposite side of the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName>
<lb/>must have been a fort and there are eight or 
<lb/>ten large establishments of stone in ruins on the left
<lb/>banks of both rivers - the broken church bell
<lb/>contains no date and I could not ascertain from
<lb/>the present <orgName>inhabitants</orgName> the name of the station
<lb/>From two <term type="nationality">Portuguese</term> <term type="occupation">traders</term> I have met since
<lb/>I learn that it is <placeName><settlement type="village">Zumbo</settlement></placeName> - It is impossible to
<lb/><choice><sic>concieve</sic><corr>conceive</corr></choice> a finer trading station than this must
<lb/>have been - Besides being very beautiful from
<lb/>having a fine <choice><sic>tree covered</sic><corr>tree-covered</corr></choice> hill named <placeName><geogName type="hill">Mazausue</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>behind there is a magnificent view of the
<lb/>broad <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> and its tributary <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Loangua</orig><reg>Luangwa</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> in front
<lb/>and there is water carriage in three directions beyond
<lb/>one of them to <persName><choice><orig>Mosilikatze</orig><reg>Mzilikazi</reg></choice></persName> - another to the
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="river">Bashukulompo</geogName></placeName> and by the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Loangua</orig><reg>Luangwa</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> to near
<lb/><persName><choice><orig>Cazembe</orig><reg>Kazembe</reg></choice></persName> in <placeName><region><choice><orig>Londa</orig><reg>Lunda</reg></choice></region></placeName> - Indeed <persName>Pereira</persName> went
<lb/>thither by this route - A <term type="plant"><term type="plant_foodstuff">mango</term> tree</term> measuring
<lb/><measure>fifteen feet in circumference</measure> in one of the
<lb/>gardens was with the exception of some <term type="plant_foodstuff">Tamarind</term>
<lb/>the only <term type="plant_foodstuff">vegetable</term> relics I could discover. I <w>wonde<supplied>red</supplied></w>
<lb/>much why the <term type="people">Portuguese</term> had abandoned
<lb/>so fine a station The <orgName>natives</orgName> said they were
<lb/>now visited by <term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Babisa</orig><reg>Bisa</reg></choice></term> <term type="occupation">traders</term> only -
<lb/>we got farther down we learned that <orgName>Caffre</orgName> Wars
<lb/>were fashionable here too - and that the <term type="people">Portuguese</term>
<lb/>being unable to make the mother country foot the
<lb/>bills they had been for the last two years shut up
<lb/>in their fort at <placeName><settlement type="town">Tete</settlement></placeName>. I cannot pretend to a
<lb/>knowledge of the causes of this uncomfortable
<lb/>state of things - "Uncomfortable" rather for me
<lb/>for I have unwittingly lugged myself into the
<lb/>midst of the belligerents - We have seen the
<lb/>women and children sent away several times -
<lb/>and <orgName>parties of men</orgName> pouring in to certain
<lb/>points during whole nights But they have
<lb/>generally come to the conclusion that "after
<lb/>he had been allowed to pass so many tribes
<lb/>unscathed, it would be a pity to have it
<lb/>said his progress had been stopped here" In
<lb/>which wise conclusion I most heartily
<lb/>coincided - The river generally is densely
<lb/>peopled by a strong muscular <orgName>race of <space extent="1" unit="chars"/>

	<pb facs="liv_000877_0005" n="0005"/>
<lb/><fw n="heading_2"><hi rend="underline"><choice><abbr>2<hi rend="sup">d</hi></abbr><expan>second</expan></choice> sheet</hi></fw>
<lb/><orgName>negroes</orgName></orgName>, much addicted to agriculture. We see both men
<lb/>and women constantly employed in the gardens, and
<lb/>as the soil is extremely fertile they raise large quantities
<lb/>of <term type="plant_foodstuff">grain</term> - the <term type="plant_foodstuff">maize</term> is nearly of the same size as
<lb/><term type="nationality">American</term> seed I have seen sold in <placeName><settlement type="town">Cape Town</settlement></placeName> - And
<lb/>they have been most liberal to both <orgName>my men</orgName> and self - Indeed
<lb/>had they been otherwise we should have starved for my
<lb/><orgName>company</orgName> consists of 113 persons. The <term type="insect">Tsetse</term> has
<lb/>been the barrier to their possession of <term type="animal_foodstuff">cattle</term> - yet should
<lb/>the large game which now abounds, be exterminated,
<lb/>I imagine the insect must cease to exist, for it
<lb/>leaves a spot impregnated with effluvia from man -
<lb/>and would then have no sustenance - There are
<lb/>several tribes of <orgName>Caffres</orgName> among them - When I
<lb/>say "<orgName>Caffres</orgName>" I mean <orgName>men of the <term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Zula</orig><reg>Zulu</reg></choice></term> family</orgName> - No
<lb/>one calls <term type="tribe">Basuta</term> or other <term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Bechuanas</orig><reg>Batswana</reg></choice></term> by that
<lb/>term unless he wishes it to be tacitly understood
<lb/>that he has travelled or lived among people equal
<lb/>to those who have <unclear cert="medium">been glad</unclear> about the brave <term type="nationality">British</term>
<lb/><term type="occupation">soldier</term> <unclear cert="medium">so roughly</unclear> - It is noticeable that the tribe
<lb/>which drove the <orgName>good men of <placeName><settlement type="town">Tete</settlement></placeName></orgName> into their fort is
<lb/>of the real <orgName>Caffre</orgName> or <term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Zulah</orig><reg>Zulu</reg></choice></term> tribe - And firearms &amp;
<lb/>gunpowder are now contraband all along the coast.
<lb/>as at the <placeName><region>Cape</region></placeName>. The <term type="occupation">missionaries</term> <del type="strikethrough">too</del> have had no
<lb/>hand in it here - neither has <choice><sic><term type="animal_foodstuff">cattle</term> stealing</sic><corr><term type="animal_foodstuff">cattle</term>-stealing</corr></choice> for there
<lb/>were none to steal - What else can we do now but
<lb/>turn up the whites of our eyes and exclaim, "<orgName>Caffre</orgName>
<lb/>wars are ordained by the immutable decrees of Heaven,
<lb/>and in engaging therein we labour under the same
<lb/>"terrible necessity"  as the <term type="nationality">American</term> <term type="occupation">professor</term> of
<lb/>chemistry (said <hi rend="underline">he</hi> was) to dismember quickly, the
<lb/><choice><sic>the</sic><corr/></choice> man he murdered" the <orgName>native</orgName> laws are
<lb/>very strict - the boundaries of the lands of each <term type="occupation">chief</term>
<lb/>are well known and clearly defined by numerous
<lb/>Torrent beds or "sand rivers". If anyone kills an
<lb/><term type="animal">elephant</term> the half which lies on the ground belongs
<lb/>to the lord of the soil, and should the <term type="occupation">huntsman</term>
<lb/>commence cutting up before a man comes from
<lb/>the <term type="occupation">chief</term> to give permission, he loses both carcase
<lb/>and tusks. This law and others equally stringent
<lb/>apply to both <orgName>natives</orgName> and <orgName>Europeans</orgName> -</p>

	<pb facs="liv_000877_0006" n="0006"/>
<lb/><p>I must now give you a sketch of the physical
<lb/>geography of the region which has come under my
<lb/>observation - When I mentioned in my last the
<lb/>curious phenomenon of the <placeName><geogName type="river">Lotembua</geogName></placeName> flowing from
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="lake">Dilolo</geogName></placeName> in two directions I had the whole excogitated
<lb/>and ready, but had not yet mustered courage enough
<lb/>to bare my back to the critical scourge of you knowing
<lb/><term type="occupation">philosophers</term> - a short time afterwards however
<lb/>I found by perusal of a speech made by <persName>Sir <choice><abbr>R.</abbr><expan>Roderick</expan></choice>
<lb/>Murchison</persName> before the <orgName><choice><abbr>R.</abbr><expan>Royal</expan></choice> <choice><abbr>Geog.</abbr><expan>Geographical</expan></choice> Society</orgName> so long ago as
<lb/><date when="1852">1852</date> the same views clearly expressed - As I arrived
<lb/>at the conclusions by a route wholly my own and
<lb/>have such an eminent forerunner I have now
<lb/>no hesitation in expressing them - In <date when="1843">1843</date> I sent
<lb/>a <bibl>paper</bibl> to the <persName>Rev<hi rend="sup underline">d</hi> D<hi rend="sup underline">r</hi> Buckland</persName> in  which I trace
<lb/>the gradual desiccation of the <placeName><region><term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Bechuana</orig><reg>Batswana</reg></choice></term> country</region></placeName>
<lb/>to the elevation of the country to the westward, And
<lb/>indicated the course of a large river which
<lb/>flowed from North to South exactly as the
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Leeamby</orig><reg>Leeambye</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> does now - that the period of this
<lb/>flow was geologically recent I inferred from
<lb/>observing that it flowed into a large Lake which
<lb/>must have been discharged when the <placeName><geogName type="river">Orange River</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>found a <choice><orig>fizzure</orig><reg>fissure</reg></choice> made for it - (As described by
<lb/><persName>Campbell</persName> it is not a waterfall, but a deep rent as
<lb/>at <placeName><geogName type="waterfall"><choice><orig>Mosioatunya</orig><reg>Mosi oa tunya</reg></choice></geogName></placeName>) And at its point of confluence
<lb/>with the Lake there are several conical hills of
<lb/>amygdaloid which caused an eddy and the deposit
<lb/>of a mound of calcareous tufa containing
<lb/>a mass of fossil bones which from being like
<lb/>those of the <term type="animal">zebra</term> or <term type="animal">buffalo</term> I conjecture to be
<lb/>recent. I have been remarkably unfortunate
<lb/>in geologizing - when I discovered this mound
<lb/>I had not even a hammer with me and would
<lb/>not spoil the beautiful teeth &amp;c. which stood
<lb/>out in bold relief on the rock. Many years
<lb/>afterward my other duties led me back to
<lb/>that part and fully armed I felt as a keen
<lb/><term type="occupation">Antiquarian</term> would, if he expected to meet
<lb/>a <bibl>manuscript history of the world</bibl> by <persName>Methusaleh</persName>

	<pb facs="liv_000877_0007" n="0007"/>
<lb/>with an appendix containing an account of the Flood
<lb/>by <persName>Ham</persName> one of the survivors - you will not think
<lb/>this exaggerated when you reflect that I had been peering
<lb/>at rocks for many a day in a country where there <!-- geog: -->
<lb/>is no <choice><sic>road making</sic><corr>road-making</corr></choice> or quarrying or even torrents
<lb/>laying fossils bare, and this was the only instance
<lb/>in which Fossil bones gladdened my sight. But an
<lb/>express came from <placeName><settlement type="village">Kuruman</settlement></placeName> - the son of another
<lb/><term type="occupation">missionary</term> was dangerously ill - I galloped <measure>a hundred
<lb/>miles</measure> back to find him in his grave, And never
<lb/>had and now probably never will have an opportunity
<lb/>of visiting that part again (it is near <placeName>Bootchap</placeName> <!-- geog: -->
<lb/>and the mound is known to <persName>Rev<hi rend="sup underline">d</hi> <choice><abbr>H.</abbr><expan>Holloway</expan></choice> Helmore</persName> of
<lb/><placeName>Likatlong</placeName> who would willingly <choice><orig>shew</orig><reg>show</reg></choice> it to any scientific
<lb/><term type="occupation">traveller</term>) To crown my geological misfortunes
<lb/>some epiphises &amp; other loose portions of bones I picked
<lb/>up, with specimens to illustrate the geology of
<lb/>the <placeName><region>Interior</region></placeName> though taken to <placeName><country>England</country></placeName> by <persName>Rev H. M.
<lb/>Methven</persName><!-- unrecognised abbreviation AM --> were stolen from the railway before they
<lb/>reached the venerable <choice><abbr>D<hi rend="sup underline">r</hi></abbr><expan>Doctor</expan></choice>'s hands, the thief, it is <!-- persName: -->
<lb/>supposed, thinking the box contained plate! And the <orgName>Boers</orgName>
<lb/>at <placeName><settlement type="village">Kolobeng</settlement></placeName> finished the remainder, I am not
<lb/>aware whether any public use were made of that
<lb/><bibl>paper</bibl> - But you will further on <choice><sic>percieve</sic><corr>perceive</corr></choice> the
<lb/>connection there exists between this part of the
<lb/>continent and that beyond <placeName><geogName type="lake">Lake Ngami</geogName></placeName> - the
<lb/>one is a basin partially filled up with eruptive
<lb/>rocks - the other is really of a basin or trough
<lb/>form at the present time - In going North the
<lb/>presence of large <term type="plant"><placeName><region>Cape</region></placeName> heaths</term> and <term type="plant">Rhododendrons</term>
<lb/>made me imagine that we were travelling on
<lb/>an elevated table land and the sudden descent
<lb/>of at least <measure>a thousand feet</measure> into the valley of
<lb/>the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Quango</orig><reg>Kwango</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> seemed to confirm the idea - But
<lb/>having hopes of meeting an <w>Ane<subst><del><gap extent="6" unit="chars"/></del><add place="above">roid</add></subst></w> or Barometer
<lb/>at <placeName><settlement type="city"><choice><orig>Loanda</orig><reg>Luanda</reg></choice></settlement></placeName> I did not try my only other resource 
<lb/>for measuring elevations <foreign xml:lang="la"><choice><abbr>viz.</abbr><expan>videlicet</expan></choice></foreign> the point of ebullition
<lb/>of water - Being disappointed by the <term type="occupation">autocrat</term> of
<lb/>all the <placeName><bloc>Russias</bloc></placeName> requiring the presence of my friend

	<pb facs="liv_000877_0008" n="0008"/>
<lb/>I was obliged to trust to the Thermometer and as I
<lb/>tried to use it always at the same hour of the day
<lb/>and when the temperature of the air in the shade was
<lb/>the same I hope the results may be taken as an
<lb/>approximation - As I have not a table for reducing
<lb/>the degrees to feet I must give you the degrees <w>them<supplied>-</supplied>
<lb break="no"/>-selves</w>. Well, the highest point of <placeName><settlement type="village">Pungo Andongo</settlement></placeName>
<lb/>is the most westerly observation in measuring
<lb/>an oblong ridge which lies parallel to and
<lb/><measure>about 300 miles</measure> from the <placeName><region>West coast</region></placeName> - It <w>canno<supplied>t</supplied></w>
<lb/>be less than <measure>20° of latitude long</measure> and from it <w>aris<supplied>e</supplied></w>
<lb/>the <placeName><geogName type="river">Coanza</geogName></placeName> and <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Quango</orig><reg>Kwango</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> on the <placeName><region>North West</region></placeName> -
<lb/>the <placeName><geogName type="river">Loeti</geogName></placeName> on the <placeName><region>South</region></placeName> - the numerous rivers
<lb/>which unite and form the  <placeName><geogName type="river">Chobe</geogName></placeName> - the <placeName><geogName type="river">Embarral</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>or <placeName><geogName type="river">River of Loebe</geogName></placeName> on the <placeName><region>South West</region></placeName> - &amp; the
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Casai</orig><reg>Kasai</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> and its many feeders on <placeName><region>the East</region></placeName></p>
<lb/><p rend="no-indent"><space extent="10" unit="words"/>Brisk <choice><abbr>Ebull</abbr><expan cert="medium">Ebullition</expan></choice></p>

<lb/><list><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item>Top of Rocks of <placeName><settlement type="village">Pungo Andongo</settlement></placeName> <space extent="8" unit="chars"/><metamark/><hi rend="underline gray">4210</hi><hi rend="sup gray">H</hi><!-- number encircled AM --> <space extent="4" unit="chars"/>204</item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item>Top of <placeName>Tala Mungongo</placeName> ------<!-- horizontal line of about 6 characters AM --><space extent="14" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(3151)</hi> <space extent="4" unit="chars"/>206</item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item>Bottom of descent of ditto ------<!-- horizontal line of about 6 characters AM --> <space extent="9" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(2097)</hi> <space extent="4" unit="chars"/><w>20<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="illegible"/></w></item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item>Bottom of Eastern ascent <space extent="15" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(<hi rend="underline">3680</hi>)</hi> <space extent="4" unit="chars"/><w>20<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="illegible"/></w></item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item>Top of ditto --------------------<!-- horizontal line of about 20 characters AM --> <space extent="14" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(5278)</hi><space extent="4" unit="chars"/><w>20<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="illegible"/></w></item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item><placeName>Dilolo</placeName> ----------------------<!-- horizontal line of about 22 characters AM --> <space extent="18" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(4741)</hi> <space extent="4" unit="chars"/><w>20<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="illegible"/></w></item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item>Confluence of <placeName><geogName type="river">Leeba</geogName></placeName> &amp; <placeName><geogName type="river">Leeambye</geogName></placeName> ------<!-- horizontal line of about 6 characters AM --> <space extent="3" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(4741)</hi> <space extent="3" unit="chars"/><w>20<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="illegible"/></w></item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item>Average of many <choice><abbr>obs<hi rend="sup">ns</hi></abbr><expan>observations</expan></choice> at <placeName><settlement type="village">Linyanti</settlement></placeName> <space extent="0" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(<subst><del>3839<hi rend="sup">3571</hi></del><add place="below"><hi rend="underline">4051</hi></add></subst>)</hi> <space extent="3" unit="chars"/><w>20<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="illegible"/></w></item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item><note rend="small">Quoted from</note><metamark/><!-- start of curly bracket linking the next 2 lines AM --><space extent="2" unit="chars"/><placeName><geogName type="lake">Lake Ngami</geogName></placeName> ------<!-- horizontal line of about 6 characters AM --> <space extent="0" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(2624)</hi> -207°<space extent="0" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(?)<add place="below">3151</add></hi> <space extent="1" unit="chars"/><w>20<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="illegible"/></w></item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item><note rend="small">memory</note><!-- continuation of curly bracket starting on previous line AM --><space extent="6" unit="chars"/><placeName><settlement type="village">Kolobeng</settlement></placeName> --------<!-- horizontal line of about 8 characters AM --> <space extent="0" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(3945)</hi> 204<choice><orig>½</orig><reg>1/2</reg></choice><space extent="1" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(?)<add place="below">3680</add></hi> <space extent="1" unit="chars"/><w>20<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="illegible"/></w></item>

<lb/><space extent="1" unit="words"/><item><note rend="small"><hi rend="underline">doubtful</hi></note></item></list>

<lb/><p>If you do not reject my instrument in toto
<lb/>the ascent of <placeName>Tala Mungongo</placeName> which to the eye
<lb/>is much higher is in reality lower and not
<lb/>much higher than <placeName><geogName type="lake">Lake Ngami</geogName></placeName> which is certainly
<lb/>in a hollow - Indeed I believe when we were
<lb/>looking at the <term type="plant">Rhododendrons</term> we were nearly on
<lb/>the crest of the ridge and the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Quango</orig><reg>Kwango</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> has given
<lb/>us a section of it <choice><orig>shewing</orig><reg>showing</reg></choice> it is composed of
<lb/>red clay slate (scotticé <foreign xml:lang="gd">Keebe</foreign>) Then <placeName><geogName type="lake">Dilolo</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>forms a sort of partition in the valley which
<lb/>exists between this the <placeName><region>Western</region></placeName> and a similar
<lb/>ridge which we have found <measure>about 10° Eastward</measure>

	<pb facs="liv_000877_0009" n="0009"/>
<lb/><fw n="heading_3"><hi rend="underline"><choice><abbr>3<hi rend="sup">d</hi></abbr><expan>third</expan></choice> sheet</hi></fw>
<lb/>for all the rivers and rivulets turn Northerly or Southerly
<lb/>from that point according as they belong <supplied cert="high">to</supplied> the Western or
<lb/>Eastern outgoing drains of the country - the <placeName><geogName type="river">Lotembua</geogName></placeName> <!-- geog: Central Africa -->
<lb/>alone sends a portion of its waters to the <placeName><geogName type="ocean">Atlantic</geogName></placeName> and
<lb/>another portion to the <placeName><geogName type="ocean"><term type="nationality">Indian</term> Ocean</geogName></placeName> The general direction
<lb/>of the chains of hills, and the dip, of the old rocks which
<lb/>contain impressions of <term type="plant">algae</term> only, or the ripple mark
<lb/>with no fossils, being towards the centre of the continent
<lb/><choice><orig>shew</orig><reg>show</reg></choice> that the present form is very <choice><sic>antient</sic><corr>ancient</corr></choice>. The
<lb/>eruptive rock on which <placeName><settlement type="village">Kuruman</settlement></placeName> stands brought
<lb/>up fragments of these bottom rocks in its substance
<lb/>Geologically the country around and <placeName><region>North of <placeName><settlement type="village">Kuruman</settlement></placeName></region></placeName>
<lb/>forms part of a great primaeval valley. It was
<lb/>therefore with much satisfaction I noticed <persName>Sir <choice><abbr>R.M.</abbr><expan>Roderick Murchison</expan></choice></persName>
<lb/>mentioning with approbation the views of <persName>M<hi rend="sup">r</hi> Bain</persName>
<lb/>who is really a <term type="occupation">geologist</term> and not a mere dabbler
<lb/>in the science like myself - I am however dosing
<lb/>you with my observations and cogitations with a
<lb/>specific object in view. If you cannot demolish
<lb/>my theory I mean to give some useful advice to
<lb/>all who may attempt to explore or civilize <placeName><bloc>Africa</bloc></placeName> -
<lb/>So be patient -</p>
<lb/><p>When we left <placeName><geogName type="island">Kalai</geogName></placeName> we went a little North into the
<lb/>bed of the <placeName><geogName type="rivulet">Lekoné</geogName></placeName> a rivulet which joins the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Leeamby</orig><reg>Leeambye</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> a
<lb/>few miles above <placeName><geogName type="island">Kalai</geogName></placeName>. Going up its bed it seems
<lb/>wonderfully like what may have been the bed of the
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="river">Leeambye</geogName></placeName> before the formation of the <choice><orig>Fizzure</orig><reg>Fissure</reg></choice> - but after
<lb/>going <measure>ten or twelve miles</measure> we left the valley on our right
<lb/>or South. I give the observations on the <placeName><region>Eastern ridge</region></placeName>
<lb/>here</p>

<lb/><list><item>Bed of the <placeName><geogName type="rivulet">Lekoné</geogName></placeName> near the falls - Brisk Ebullition <space extent="1" unit="chars"/><add place="above" rend="gray">(3945)</add> 204°<choice><orig>½</orig><reg>1/2</reg></choice></item>

<lb/><item><placeName><settlement type="village"><persName>Marimba</persName>'s</settlement></placeName> after leaving <placeName><geogName type="rivulet">Lekoné</geogName></placeName> ------ <space extent="14" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">4608</hi> 203<choice><orig>¼</orig><reg>1/4</reg></choice></item>

<lb/><item>Near source of <placeName><geogName type="river">Unguesi</geogName></placeName> ------------<!-- horizontal line about 12 characters--><space extent="18" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">5009</hi> 202<choice><orig>½</orig><reg>1/2</reg></choice></item>

<lb/><item>Banks of the <placeName><geogName type="river">Kalomo</geogName></placeName> - (top of ridge) <space extent="15" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">5278</hi> 202°</item>

<lb/><item><placeName>Naka Ahanto</placeName> on Eastern descent from Ridge <space extent="5" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(4210)</hi> 204°</item>

<lb/><item>Banks of the <placeName><geogName type="river">Kafué</geogName></placeName> or <placeName><geogName type="river">Bashukulompo <choice><abbr>R.</abbr><expan>River</expan></choice></geogName></placeName> <space extent="10" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(3415)</hi> 205<choice><orig>½</orig><reg>1/2</reg></choice></item>

<lb/><item>Top of the hills at <placeName><persName>Semalembue</persName>'s</placeName> <space extent="17" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(4078)</hi> 204<choice><orig>¼</orig><reg>1/4</reg></choice></item>

<lb/><item>Bottom of <choice><abbr>D<hi rend="sup">o</hi></abbr><expan>Ditto</expan></choice> <space extent="37" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(3288)</hi> 205<choice><orig>¾</orig><reg>3/4</reg></choice></item>

<lb/><item>Banks of <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> near <choice><abbr>conf<hi rend="sup underline">ce</hi></abbr><expan>confluence</expan></choice> of <placeName><geogName type="river">Kafué</geogName></placeName> <space extent="11" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(1571)</hi> 209°</item>

<lb/><item>----- <space extent="4" unit="chars"/>------- <space extent="5" unit="chars"/><!-- horizontal lines indicating repetition of "Banks of Zambesi" from previous line AM --> at <space extent="3" unit="chars"/>--- <space extent="2" unit="chars"/><!-- horizontal lines indicating repetition of "confluence"  from previous line AM --> of <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig><orig>Loangwa</orig><reg>Loangua</reg></orig><reg>Luangwa</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> <space extent="8" unit="chars"/><hi rend="gray">(1440)</hi> 209<choice><orig>¼</orig><reg>1/4</reg></choice></item></list>

	<pb facs="liv_000877_0010" n="0010"/>
<lb/><p rend="no-indent">Here it may be remarked that the <placeName><geogName type="rivulet">Lekoné</geogName></placeName> flows in the
<lb/>contrary direction to the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> or <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Leeamby</orig><reg>Leeambye</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> and so <w>d<supplied>oes</supplied></w>
<lb/>the <placeName><geogName type="river">Unguesi</geogName></placeName> which indeed joins that river above
<lb/>the commencement of the rapids at which we left
<lb/>the canoes - The <placeName><geogName type="river">Kalomo</geogName></placeName> on the top of the ridge <w>flow<supplied>s</supplied></w>
<lb/>South - the <placeName><geogName type="river">Mozuma</geogName></placeName> the first rivulet on the <placeName><region>Eastern
<lb/>side</region></placeName> flows Easterly and then the rivulets flow away
<lb/>into the <placeName><geogName type="river">Kafué</geogName></placeName> Suppose the bed of the <placeName><geogName type="rivulet">Lekoné</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>or we may say the ancient bed of the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName>
<lb/>to have suffered little or no change of elevation by
<lb/>formation of the <choice><orig>fizzure</orig><reg>fissure</reg></choice> then the elevation being <w>onl<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="hole"/><supplied>y</supplied></w>
<lb/>a little more than that of <placeName><settlement type="village">Linyanti</settlement></placeName> we see the <w>machin<supplied>ery</supplied></w>
<lb/>by which a vast lake was collected which embraced
<lb/>in its bosom, most of the <add place="below">^</add> <add place="above">bed of the</add> <placeName><geogName type="river">Chobe</geogName></placeName> - <placeName><geogName type="lake">Lake Ngami</geogName></placeName> and
<lb/>much of the country from <placeName>Nchokotsa</placeName> Eastwards - this
<lb/>is abundantly evident otherwise for the whole of the
<lb/>space thus indicated is covered over with a thick
<lb/>bed of soft calcareous tufa <del type="strikethrough">with</del> which the <w>water<supplied>s</supplied></w>
<lb/>formerly seem to have deposited most copiously -
<lb/>and considerably to the <placeName><region>South West of <placeName><geogName type="lake">Ngami</geogName></placeName></region></placeName> if an
<lb/><term type="animal">anteater</term> digs his burrow shells are thrown up
<lb/>identical with those now living in the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> &amp;
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="river">Zouga</geogName></placeName> It is also pretty certain the waters <add place="below">^</add> <add place="above">pent up</add> in
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="valley"><term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Barotse</orig><reg>Lozi</reg></choice></term> Valley</geogName></placeName> were discharged by the <choice><orig>fizzure</orig><reg>fissure</reg></choice> of <placeName>Gonye</placeName>
<lb/>and there are other <add place="below">^</add> <add place="above"><choice><orig>fizzure</orig><reg>fissure</reg></choice></add> falls in the country as one in
<lb/>the <placeName><geogName type="river">Kabompo</geogName></placeName> or <placeName><geogName type="river">Leeambye</geogName></placeName> beyond <placeName><persName>Masiko</persName>'s</placeName> and
<lb/>another in the <placeName><geogName type="river">Bashukulompo river</geogName></placeName> -</p>
<lb/><p>That these ridges are much farther <placeName><region>North</region></placeName> than
<lb/>my enquiries extend may perhaps be inferred
<lb/>from the <placeName><geogName type="river">Congo</geogName></placeName> or <placeName><geogName type="river">Zaire</geogName></placeName> being exceedingly narrow
<lb/>where <persName>Captain Tackey</persName> turned yet <persName>Commander
<lb/><choice><sic>Bedingfield</sic><corr>Bedingfeld</corr></choice></persName> informed me that it yields an extraordinary
<lb/>large amount of water to the ocean - Indeed no sounding
<lb/>can be found with ordinary lines near the mouth
<lb/>though the stream is rapid and perfectly fresh - I <w>h<supplied>ave</supplied></w>
<lb/>referred already to the <choice><orig>fizzure</orig><reg>fissure</reg></choice> outlet of the <placeName><geogName type="river">Orange River</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>Information got from <orgName>Arabs</orgName> from <placeName><geogName type="island">Zanzibar</geogName></placeName>
<lb/>and the <term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Makololo</orig><reg>Kololo</reg></choice></term> who went on a <subst><del>trading</del> <add place="above">marauding</add></subst> <w>expeditio<supplied>n</supplied></w>
<lb/>to <placeName><region>the East</region></placeName> or <placeName><region><choice><abbr>E N E</abbr><expan>East Northeast</expan></choice> of <settlement type="village"><persName>Masiko</persName></settlement></region></placeName> while we <w>wer<supplied>e</supplied></w>
<lb/>at <placeName><settlement type="city"><choice><orig>Loanda</orig><reg>Luanda</reg></choice></settlement></placeName> may be cited as next best to
<lb/>actual observation - the <orgName>Arabs</orgName> say a large <w>rive<supplied>r</supplied></w>
<lb/>flows from the East or <placeName><region>country of <term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Banyassa</orig><reg>Banyasa</reg></choice></term></region></placeName>
<lb/>(<placeName><geogName type="lake"><choice><orig>N'yassa</orig><reg>Nyasa</reg></choice></geogName></placeName>) to the South West and passing near


	<pb facs="liv_000877_0011" n="0011"/>
<lb/><placeName>Cazembé</placeName> joins the <placeName><geogName type="river">Leeambye</geogName></placeName>. The <term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Banyassa</orig><reg>Banyasa</reg></choice></term> live on
<lb/>a hilly country and have no Lake in their own land
<lb/>but to their <choice><abbr>NNW</abbr><expan>North-Northwest</expan></choice> the large <placeName><geogName type="lake">Lake <choice><orig>Tanganyeñka</orig><reg>Tanganyika</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> is
<lb/>situated and that is connected with another still
<lb/>farther North and is named <placeName><geogName type="lake">Kalagwé</geogName></placeName> (<placeName><geogName type="lake">Garague</geogName></placeName>?)
<lb/>(I am writing now in the most profound ignorance of
<lb/>all that may have been done there during the last few
<lb/>years) My <orgName><choice><sic>arab</sic><corr>Arab</corr></choice></orgName> friend goes <subst><del>but</del><add place="above">either</add></subst> round the end of
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="lake"><choice><orig>Tanganyenka</orig><reg>Tanganyika</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> or is taken <choice><sic>accross</sic><corr>across</corr></choice> it the distance
<lb/>being <measure>three days</measure> and the canoe is punted the whole
<lb/>way. It is <measure>ten days</measure> North East of <placeName>Cazembe</placeName> - Is it
<lb/>unreasonable to suppose these large shallow
<lb/>collections of water are aught else but the result
<lb/>of <seg type="weather">tropical rains</seg> - the <choice><orig>fizzures</orig><reg>fissures</reg></choice> in the <placeName><region>Eastern
<lb/>ridge</region></placeName> not yet being deep enough to produce
<lb/>perfect drainage</p>
<lb/><p>The <term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Makololo</orig><reg>Kololo</reg></choice></term> when in their Eastern foray
<lb/>were accompanied by the above referred to <orgName>Arab</orgName> -
<lb/>and when near <placeName><w>Sebolamak<gap extent="1" unit="chars" agent="blot"/>ea</w></placeName> they found a
<lb/>large river coming from a distant ridge to which
<lb/>the <orgName>Arab</orgName> directed their attention saying "When we
<lb/>see that we always know that we are only about
<lb/>to begin our descent of <measure>ten or fifteen days</measure> to the
<lb/>sea" - the same river named <placeName><geogName type="river">Lokanka</geogName></placeName> spreads out
<lb/>into a Lake called <placeName><geogName type="lake">Shuia</geogName></placeName> (<placeName><geogName type="lake">Shooeea</geogName></placeName>) which gives off
<lb/>two rivers - these uniting with the <placeName><geogName type="river">Kafue</geogName></placeName> again divide
<lb/>and form it and the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig><orig>Loangwa</orig><reg>Loangua</reg></orig><reg>Luangwa</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> - the situation is that
<lb/>assigned to <placeName><geogName type="lake">Lake Maravi</geogName></placeName> - But the country being
<lb/>full of reedy marshes <choice><orig>shews</orig><reg>shows</reg></choice> clearly, with the directions
<lb/>of the <placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Loapola</orig><reg>Luapula</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> and <placeName><geogName type="river">Lokanka</geogName></placeName>, that there too the basin
<lb/>form prevails - the strike of the rocks of the <placeName><region>Eastern
<lb/>ridge</region></placeName> makes me suppose it trends away to the
<lb/>North East - this agrees with what both the <orgName><choice><sic>arab</sic><corr>Arab</corr></choice></orgName> &amp;
<lb/><term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Makololo</orig><reg>Kololo</reg></choice></term> report - </p> 
<lb/><p>Now like the postscript of a lady's <w><gap extent="2" unit="chars" agent="blot"/><supplied>le</supplied>tter</w> comes
<lb/>the Kernel of the whole of this verbiage - Both <placeName><region>Eastern</region><!-- geog: Eastern ridges -->
<lb/>and <region>Western ridges</region></placeName> are decidedly salubrious <del type="strikethrough">While</del>
<lb/>while the valley is as decidedly deadly. <orgName>Criminals</orgName>
<lb/>who were doomed by the <term type="people">Portuguese</term> to the Black
<lb/>rocks of <placeName><settlement type="village">Pungo Andongo</settlement></placeName> were believed to be


	<pb facs="liv_000877_0012" n="0012"/>
<lb/>undergoing a much severer punishment than those
<lb/>who were sentenced to transportation to the coast But
<lb/>these same rocks are now known to be in the healthiest
<lb/>District in <placeName><country>Angola</country></placeName> - And <placeName>Bihé</placeName> still farther in is
<lb/>more salubrious still. It is the same with the
<lb/><placeName><region>Eastern ridge</region></placeName> - We saw neither a marsh nor a <w>fount<gap extent="3" unit="chars" agent="illegible"/><supplied>ain</supplied></w>
<lb/>on it, and though I have been for a month on the
<lb/><placeName><geogName type="river"><choice><orig>Zambesi</orig><reg>Zambezi</reg></choice></geogName></placeName> I have <del type="strikethrough">had</del> suffered nothing from <term type="ailment">fever</term>
<lb/>this however is partly owing to having had <term type="foodstuff">wheaten bread</term>
<lb/>and not the mere starch of <placeName><region><choice><orig>Londa</orig><reg>Lunda</reg></choice></region></placeName> <term type="plant_foodstuff">manioc</term> &amp; <term type="plant_foodstuff"><term type="animal">bird</term>'s seed</term>.
<lb/><placeName><settlement type="village">Zumbo</settlement></placeName> was healthy - not because it was elevated for
<lb/>the country is all low - the ranges of hills which run
<lb/>all along on each side of the river are not so high as
<lb/>the ridges we left behind - If then these salubrious
<lb/>ridges run much farther to the North than my <w>enquirie<supplied>s</supplied></w>
<lb/>extend it may be recommended to all those who
<lb/>engage in <term type="occupation">scientific pursuits</term> or in enterprises
<lb/>of commerce and benevolence to endeavour to
<lb/>ascertain if these may not be directed from
<lb/>sanatoria on these elevations. It is worth enquiry
<lb/>at least - the <orgName><placeName><geogName type="river">Niger</geogName></placeName> expedition</orgName> may have turned
<lb/>back when within <measure>fifty miles</measure> of such a desirable
<lb/>position for its stricken and prostrate <orgName>members</orgName> -
<lb/>I anticipate water carriage to within <measure>2°</measure> of the <term type="tribe"><w><choice><orig>Makolo</orig><reg>Kolo</reg></choice><supplied>lo</supplied></w></term>
<lb/>by means of <choice><sic>flat bottomed</sic><corr>flat-bottomed</corr></choice> boats - the chief obstruction
<lb/>are rapids and I have seen none yet equal to those
<lb/>below the <placeName><geogName type="valley"><term type="tribe"><choice><orig>Barotse</orig><reg>Lozi</reg></choice></term> valley</geogName></placeName>. And if this can be effected
<lb/>during a healthy part of the year I expect to be able to
<lb/>pursue our plans in good health - I am not so
<lb/>much elated by the feat of crossing the continent
<lb/>being nearly accomplished as might be expected
<lb/>the end of the geographical feat is but the
<lb/>beginning of the <term type="occupation">missionary</term> enterprise - that I
<lb/>may be honoured to do some good to this poor
<lb/>degraded <choice><sic>trodden down</sic><corr>trodden-down</corr></choice> <placeName><bloc>Africa</bloc></placeName> is a wish in
<lb/>which you will I doubt not cordially join -</p>
<lb/><p>Reached <placeName><settlement type="town"><choice><orig>Tette</orig><reg>Tete</reg></choice></settlement></placeName> <date when="1856-03-02">2<hi rend="sup">d</hi> March</date> pretty well tired from
<lb/>marching through a rough stoney country without path
<lb/><term type="people">Portuguese</term> very very kind, thanks to <persName>M<hi rend="sup">r</hi> Duprat</persName> -</p>
<lb/><p rend="no-indent">Kind remembrance to <persName>M<hi rend="sup underline">rs</hi> <choice><abbr>M.</abbr><expan>Maclear</expan></choice></persName> &amp; family, Mann Morton &amp;c</p>
<lb/><p rend="no-indent"><space extent="8" unit="words"/><persName>David <choice><orig>Livingston</orig><reg>Livingstone</reg></choice></persName></p>



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</TEI>
