The sepoy who was
plundered now walked
quite briskly - The
shakings were a sham
5to decieve me - After
a two hours march
we came to Mtarika's
former village - The
country changes a high
10ridge lies on the other
N. side of the river and
beyond that another
but all is uninhabited
Kangomba lived there
15but now is near
Machemba - The
rocks are now
sandstone and there
are large
20holmes on
which maize flourishes
As we approached
Mtarika's the land
sloping for a mile
down to the river
5is covered with a
very large population
some making new
gardens others enjoy
ing the last year's
10crop but all so
well furnisshed with
white calico that
they will not touch
ours - The market
15is glutted & the exchange
has been chiefly slaves
They say that the
reason why Arabs
tie people to trees
20and leave them to die
is "They are vexed
0007
when the slave cannot
walk further that they
have lost their money"
The road is almost
5strewed with slave sticks
I suspect that the people
here make a practice of
following slave caravans
and cutting off the sticks of
10those who fall out in the
march and thus stealing
them = Rovuma is about
100 yards broad and still
has the same character
15of rapid stream & sandy
islands - Large islands
are always occupied as
being partly defensible
Here at Mtarika's old
20station we rest on the
2d July to make up
for our want of it on
the 1st we call{n}not buy
0008
food readily - but we
get as much very
dearly as keeps us
going on one meal a
5day - Wish we were
off the slave tract -
People have heard of
our wish to stop the
slave trade and seem
10rather taken aback when
told that we{they} are art &
part the guilty persons
they are startled at
the accounts we give -
15Of the mortality we
have witnessed and
dumfounded when
we shew them that in
the eye of their Maker
20They are guilty - If they
did not sell the
Arabs would not buy
Chuma & Wikatani [ ]g
what is said very
eloquently in Chiyau
All are Waiyau here
5with only a sprinkling
of slaves from other
tribes = Chemseia --
chimsaka & Mtarika
are Waiyau -
The slope here has
yielded large crops of
Sorghum = congo beans
and pumpkins - Here
and there oozing springs
15present moist spots
where rice has been
sown - People very
curious - great crowds
come to gaze - never
20saw such a strange
being before = My
0010
appearance and acts
often cause a burst of
laughter - If I rise up
suddenly a flight of
5women - to prevent
peo{e}ping into the hut
I occupy I do my
writing in the verandah
Chitane the poodle and
10the calf of the buffalo &
one donkey are greeted
with the same amount
of curiosity & comment
as myself -
Every evening a
series of musket reports
are heard = they make
them sound as loudly
as possible - It is said
20"they are going to sleep"
they must have plenty
of powder - all imitate
0011
The Arabs in dress [ ]
in chewing tobacco &
"nora" or lime instead
of betel nut and lime --
The women are stout
well built persons with
rather thick arms &
legs - The lip rings are
not large - the tattoo a
10mixture of the Makoa &
Waiyau = fine blue &
black beads are in fashion
and so are brass arm coils
Nangazu a gum used for
15inlaying combs
[ ]d July 1866. Smokes
begin here today - I
can scarcely see the
mountain Chisungule
5which was quite visible
yesterday arrived at
Mtarika's new place
after a march of 2 hours
Waited for chief to come
10but he did not appear
until he had heard all
about us - Population
immense - they are
making new plantations
15and they are laid out
by straight lines of
a foot wide made
with the hoe = one goes
miles without getting
20off the marked spots
It is scraggy forest [ ]a
all are busy cutting down
the trees and heaping the
branches so that when
5they are burned large
spaces will be manured
with the ashes = Mtarika -
a big ugly man with
receding forehead &
10large mouth came and
saw all out curiosities
as the watch - pistol - gun,
&{a} breech loader - sextant
Gave him a lecture on
15the evil of selling his
people - Wished me to tell
all the others - they dont
like the idea of guilt
being attached to their
20having sold people whose
lives are lost in the
way down to the sea
0014
4 July 1866
a long visit from Mtarika
who is a good deal of a
beggar - more so than
5any we have met in this
journey - brought two
meals of porridge & wild
pig & bean leaves - gave
him a cloth & an untsiva
10powder case = a Swaheli
Arab in wretched case
and old - I gave a cloth
to cure his Rheumatism
5th July 1866 - Leave
15for Mtende's who is
near to Mtarika but
the last station before
a three days tramp
without population
20Kandulo is more to the
North -
We had a gentle shower
0015
last night & the air is so far
cleared that we can see great
mountain masses in the
blue distance S. & S.E.{W.}
5country still covered with
open forest but so
undulating that on the
crest of the waves we
gain a view of the
10distant mountains
It is cold to the feelings
and sky overcast -
6th July 1866 - ʘ - ☾
Yesterday - Mtende in-
15vited me to go & eat at
his house where he had
provided a large mess of
rice porridge & congo
beans as a relish = He
20says that very many
Arabs come this way
0016
and many die in it -
- knows of no deaf &
dumb person in the
country - has imbibed
5some Arab manners
and says he cuts all
animals throats before
he eats of them = does
not eat lion or hyena
10because they eat men
A person accused of
having eaten human
flesh was lately killed
by poison & then burned
15We passed the spot
His clothing - was hung
up on the trees by the
roadside - this was
probably a Muave - case --
7th July 1866 -
Got men from Mtende
to go on to Mataka a five
days journey - He asked
5a cloth for himself to
ensure his men going
the whole way - I gave
one worth ⅚ this is
the only thing like the
10tribute I have paid as
yet
Upland vegetation flowers
Trees dotted here & there
among bush five feet
15high or so - & one can often
see horizon = fine blue
flowers {figure} yellow Do
Ridge & valley as in Londa
with trickling rills in the
20valleys - They run S.E. Garden
willow looking plants in full
flower = {figure}
0018
at 11 AM 2 H -20 M +20+40+40
4 Hours in all to Lemile
The sepoy Perim either
stole or threw away a
5good many Pounds of
tea - and the tin lining
also - I reproved him
for this and gave him
the boat's sail to carry
10instead telling him that
if he threw away any
of that I would punish
him - He & another gave
over their loads to a
15stranger - skulked behind
& when we had waited
2 hours for them
the Havildar said that
they would not obey
20him - I gave Perim
& the other some smart
cuts with a cane
8th July 1866 - Hard travelling
through a country destitute
of inhabitant = covered
with trees a little larger
than hop poles - soil
10sometimes sandy but
at other times the reddish
soil which is very favor
able to Sorghum - Many
bush Kumba or gum
15copal trees - It is said
that game abounds
but we see none - Water
not scarce - Mountain
0020
masses all around
{figure}
a great deal of ferrugin
ous conglomerate
5lying on surface
but rock generally
is granitic - at
Mtende's fine grained
schust
The Gum copal tree
is called Mchenga -
yields gum when
wounded & is used
to make bark cloth
15but there are no
diggings -
March 2¼ H +1 H -8 M +1=4=15
Two Sepoys reported
behind - came up an
5hour after dark = Many
Masuko trees met with
today - also Rhododen
-drons -
2 H 20 + 1 H - 45 M + 1 H == 5 H - 5 M
9th sleep in a wild
spot ^ near Leziro Mt. with many
lions about - serenaded
5by one hoarse fellow -
10 th July 1866 =
morning - 3 Hours to
Lokando rivulet running
10here W S W - a range
of Mountains lies on
our left seems to be
E & W + 3H 10M
6 H 10 M in all to -
15rivulet where we
slept= Lapata
11th 2 H 30 M over a
country rising in
20ridges & having streams
at the junction of each two
a dead body in a hut
by wayside - many
Masuko trees but fruit
not yet ripe - very
5few birds seen or heard
Two sepoys behind sent
Each for them - One an
inveterate skulker - All
have the childish per-
10versity of repeating their
misdemeanours as if to
wear one out - Havildar
has no authority over
them - ½ more to Rt +
151-35 to sleeping place
4 35 in all -- Lapata Nakatette We
cross many running
rivulets every day - One
good sized one Lisin-
20yando goes to Rovuma
12 July 1866 - a
drizzling mist set
in during the night
and continued this
5morning - We set off
in the dark however
having left our last
food for the Havildar
& those behind
In two hours & thirty
five minutes came
to the Lenata a stream
flowing south away
to the Loi{e}ndi - the
15last Rovuma stream
the Liyombe was
crossed this morning
at 9 AM it cleared
up - 1{2} - 35 + 1-25 to
20Balalo Rt + 1 H to Msapa Rt
An Arab brandy bottle
broken in the stream
which is a brawling one
over metamorphosed
5sandstone & many
Podastemons in it
5=45 to Luatize our
last stage before getting
to Mataka's -
Luatize is about 40 yards
wide & waist deep -
has Hippopotami further
down & is the main
feeder of Loendi - the
15country undulating &
covered with masses
of green foliage chiefly
Masuko trees
13th July 1866 - several
Johanna men behind -
our provisions done but
we hope to reach Mataka's
5today - In coming 2-35
this morning we crossed
six running streams
soil all reddish clay -
Grass long & thickly
10planted - Mountains
all about -- a weary
march & long = clay
baked hard by many
feet is sore on feet
We have many behind
now and having pushed
on till near the gardens
I sent on men to buy
food and return with
20it to where we sleep on
the brow of a hill - Will
send to Havildar
tomorrow
2-35 + 45 + 1 = 4-20 at
Noon + 1 to rivulet + 1-15
6 Hour - 35 M in all =
Passing fifteen running
5rivulets today all feeders
of the Loendi - some
were from 5 to ten yards
wide & all have delicious,
cold water - some oozing
10places shewed iron rust
in abundance - Rock
a dark trap - sleep on a knoll
one hour from the gardens
14th Arrived at
15Mataka's an Arab -
"Seph" Rupia or Rubea hearing that we
were hard put to it by
hunger kindly met up
with an ox & large
20bag of meal - then
0028
with some cooked ox
meat = sent food back
to Havildar by two of
Mataka's Waiyau =
5Men came on to the town
which is really such &
most of the huts are
built square in Arab
fashion - The approach
10has is by a succession
of ridges some 500 feet
high with running
streams at the bottom
of each = The air is cold
15here - and we seem in
a circle of mountain
ridges - We are 2700 feet
above the sea - Cassava
is cultivated in the
20streets in long lines -
and give the town an
orderly appearance
Mataka kept us an
hour waiting for him
and then he came dressed
as an Arab = is about
550 years of age = a flat
nose and smiling face
- made remarks to his
people which he expected
them to laugh at & they
10did = gave a hut - square
and sent a good mess
of porridge & cooked
meat = has plenty of
cattle = We stand a great
15deal of staring unmoved
which is something
for it is often accom
-panied with remarks
by no means compliment
20-tary - but they think
that they are not
understood & perhaps I
misunderts{st}and sometimes
We have had a very severe
march of eight days
15th July 1866
The whole Arab party
set off this morning
with all their slaves
for Kilwa - Seph ^ Rupia the
25leader was glad to get
away so cheaply - I gave
him three cloths -
0031
and Mataka two - Seph
says that more than a
hundred Kilwa people
have died on this road
5during the past season -
that there are two roads
to Nyassa one towards
Kotakota bay the other
to Makata - This seven days
10to Kotakota five but the
longer one has most people
and provisions on it
Jumbe demands 24 yards
for each parcel carried
15over - While Makata goes
in boats or canoes only
an ox 1 ½ gorahs or pieces
A number of Makata's
people went to Nyassa &
20without his knowledge
carried off cattle & people
When they came here he
ordered all to be sent back
0032
I told him that this was
the best piece of news
I had heard in the country
He seemed pleased with
5my approbation and
said to his people you
hear what he says - -
- - you think I am
wrong in returning the
10captives - all good men
will approve as he does &
I have been accidentally
a spectator of the
party going back - I
15counted the women
& children at fifty four
the lads will make
a dozen or so more
The cattle 24 head &
20one or two were slaughtered
by the owners this
morning to exchange
the meat for meal & maize
16th July 1866 - Poorly -
17th Gave Mataka
a trinket to be kept in
rememberance of his
5having sent back the
captured cattle & people
to Nyassa. said He would
always act in the same
way - As it was spon-
10-taneous on his part it
is all the more valuable -
a little rain fell yesterday
- the Havildar has killed
the last donkey by striking
15it on the head - driving it
into difficult boggy places
with its load on = He has
spent 14 days in doing
what we have done in eight
20Has stopped at a village
about one hour from
this & sent on Ramnack
with a demand for 3 carriers
0034
He told Ramnack that I
would pay for a carrier
It has become the custom
for the sepoys to say to
5the country people "Carry
for me & Sahib will
pay you" - Yesterday
one came up with a
woman! carrying his
10musket bayonet & belts -
I paid her because
she had been told by him
that I would do so & she
being a woman - but
15am determined to pay
no more - If I do we
shall run out of cloth
and all starve on account
of sepoy laziness - They
20are quite a disgraceful
spectacle - so hang dog
looking the country people
call them the slaves
0035
of the party - They have no
spirit nor pluck as
compared to the Africans
if one feels his legs sore
5in the march he turns
aside to the first village
and begs in the most
abject manner - I feel
quite ashamed of them -
A number of Waiyau
plundered an Arab slave
party on the Western side
of the hills of both slaves
and cloth saying in
15defence that an Englishman
had come & told them that
no more slaving could
be allowed - It did not
occur to the Arabs to
20say that I had not yet
come into that part of
the country
18th July 1866 -
The Waiyau are far
5from handsome - the
women generally are
coarse and their mouths
are made hideous by
the lip ring & filed teeth
0037
but they seem strong &
able for their work - Many
of the men too are large
strong boned fellows -
The soil here is hard
red clay - Houses made
of it stand well - got a
dish of ^ green peas from young
Makata today -
19th July 1866
Went to wash at a rivulet
a mile back - large patches
of peas in bloom &
seed are planted on the
15holmes - They are called
Gunda sawsaura &
have probably been intro
-duced by the Arabs -
they are sown at the
20beginning of the cold
season - They bear
abundantly - many
0038
small springs appear
in the hollows of this
hilly spot and in one
real irrigation was
5going on the water
being regularly laid on -
food is very abundant
and cheap - sweet
potatoes become very
10large - We got two large
bundles for 3 cubits &
2 needles = They probably
exceeded 1 cwt. in weight
maize very large - The
15Height above the sea - The
richness of the soil - The
abundance of water &
labour makes it as
desirable a residence as
20Magomero but instead
of three weeks easy sail
we have three months of
0039
hard travel to reach it!
20th July 1866
Ramnack Lucknuck &
Pando heard bargaining
5for fowls for the powder
of their cartridges denied
the fact though the powder
was there in a rag & the
cartridge papers lying
10before them & one of the
natives held them up &
said these belong to them
The Ramnack thinking
it was Simon Price
15who had reported him
told him if he saw him
in the jungle he would
shoot him - or wherever
there is no English law
20I told him that being
consul English law went
where I did and I certainly
would hang him wherever
he made the attempt
It was Juma who called
my attention to the trans-
-action and I found the
bargain proceeding myself
5He has threatened to shoot
Simon three times - I
told him that I would
have flogged him but for
my belief that he had
10not the courage to shoot
a cat except in a secret
way - any of the country
people here could strip
a sepoy naked without
15any resistance from
him -
Groaning seems a favourite
way of spending the time
with some sick folk - Three
20sepoys with very little ailing
them played at it rigourously
outside my door & pre-
vented my sleeping - I
told them if so ill that
0041
they required to groan they
had better remove a little
way off - They preferred
the verandah and at once
5gave up the groaning -
A boy moaned some hours
in the house but when
bed time came I explained
that people usually groaned
10only when too ill to be
sensible of it - He groaned
no more though he became
worse - An English
sailor of the Pioneer
15moaned lustily while ill
and one morning after
he became quite well
he forgot on awaking
that he was better and
20commenced a sonorous
groamn till fairly aroused
by the laughter of the
spectators
20th The Havildar came up today
denies striking the beast
on the head - says the sepoys
wont obey him - lie down
5admits that a good deal
of it is sham & pretence -
The Arab Seph Rupia
gave as I requested him
provisions to the Havildar
10& his people - They eat
these and continued in
the same place - He left his
things and came on to tell
me -- send back on the
1521st the Havildar one
Nassick boy & two sepoys
with cloth rice and
potatoes to bring up the
other sepoys who are
20lagging behind - Went off
growling = a seedy set of
soldiers verily -
21st July 1866 - a slave
party arriving from the
coast inaugurates itself
by a continual discharge
of guns which is responded
10to by the lullilooing of the
women - The slaving
party is called a Safari
and is a regularly
organized body under
15a leader called Nahuda
This ^ one arriving has eleven underlings
who each transacts
business for himself
Their movements are
made according to the
orders of the Nahuda
and he arranges any
5differences that may
arise -
Called at Mataka's house
10a large number of idlers
sit before him and
are ready to respond
with a laugh to any
remarks he may
15make - He had evidently
never met those who
could not speak his
own tongue for he thought
it remarkable that we
20have only three who can
speak Waiyau - asked
what one ought to take
0045
to Bombay if he wanted to
get money for it - I
replied, ivory, He rejoined
would slaves be bought
5they would put him in
prison if he took them
there for sale - This rather
turned the laugh against him
the lordly Mataka for he
10winced at the idea of being
put in chokzee = Thought
people who crowd to him
ought to give him something
for being here to supply their
15wants - I replied if he
would fill the fine country
with people which is now
desolate instead of sending
them off to Quiloa he
20would confer a benefit
but we were starved in the
way to him - told him what
the English would do in
road making in such
0046
a well watered country
This led us to talk of railways
& ships - and ploughing
with oxen - This last
5idea struck him most
I said I should like some of the
Nassick boys to stop &
teach him these & other
things & probably some
10would come but they
were afraid of being
again sold = He never
heard so decided protests
against slaving before
15We introduce a new idea
or one at least which
only floated vaguely in
their minds when we
assert the guiltiness
20of those who sell as
well as those who buy
slaves who in great part
0047
are destroyed before they
reach their destination
22 July 1866 was too ill
all day to have service -
5Dysentery from passing
from scarcity to full rations
has befallen several as well
as myself - tried chor{lo}rodyne
23d I am a little better -
10but waiting for the sepoys
who seem to expect me
to go back for them - I cannot
send the country people
because they are afraid
15of being stolen by Makanjela's
people if they go in that
direction - Nor can I
send the Nassick or
Johanna men because
20the sepoys have made
themselves odious to all
threatening to shoot them
if they found them in
quiet spot away from
25the English power
They say that they would
go anywhere or do anything
for me but for the sepoys
they have sworn never to
5help them - I suspect
that the Havildar has
been afraid of them all
along -
24 July 1866
25 = ill with dysentery
26 & 27 somewhat better
wrote to Major Muter
about the sepoys and
sent it enclosed to Dr
15Seward at Zanzibar
We were going to start
this morning but the
chief, Mataka, said he
was not ready with
20flour & meat for us
we must wait another
day - This morning
27 July he gave an ox
0049
which we slaughtered at once
The four sepoys who remained
behind to eat the fine young
buffalo came up today
5saying the tigers had eaten it
They had left the spot where
the donkey died in order to
slaughter it out of the way
A woman passed & reported
10this -
It is clouded all over every
day from about 10 AM -
and it is cold and many people
have coughs
Abraham's uncle came
among the crowds that
flock to see me - He made
himself known to the uncle
and found that his
20mother and two sisters
had been sold into slavery
after he was, and taken
to the coast - The uncle
asked him to stop here
25and I wished him to remain
with Mataka but he
0050
says How can I stop where
I have no mother & no
sister - Another uncle
turned up & recieved the
5same answer - The
affection seems to go to
the mother -
The abundance of grain
is accompanied with
10great numbers of large
mice which are very
impudent playing all
manner of pranks by
night -
28th July 1866
Mataka gave a good lot of
flour & arranged for men to
go on as far as the Lake - the
country a mass of mountains
5with gushing streamsburns all of
which are made use of as
means of irrigation ^ or ^ or drains of damp
places - many channels
cleared out so as to save all
10the water for irrigation = ^ or drain the a
spots which are too damp
great many patches of peas
in full bearing & flower -
much rust of iron in streams
15Trees small & scraggy except in
the hollows -
Villages everywhere with
from 50 to 150 houses -
patches of cultivation on all
20the hill sides = We rise higher
and higher as we go W & SW
The mountain tops rise about
2000 at most above where
we travel - many ups &
25downs make it fatiguing
1 - 20 + 40 + 1 - 10 + 1 - 43 -= Sa
4 - 40 to {Magola}'s
Large trees in the hollows with
leaves 15 inches long by 5 broad
5Ung^ uongo - dont eat fruit but
large grubs come out of the
fruit & they eat them -
looks like a fig - seems fit
to form canoes
29th a strong scud from
South sweeps along
every day bringing
much moisture =
Andrew & Reuben two
15Nassick boys remained
behind and we have
to send for them - the
boy Reuben is an inveterate
lazy drone & while he
20carried the ammunition
box 200 cartridges went
out of it - He always
0053
lagged behind and enabled
the sepoys to steal - Then
has been a general stealing
by the sepoys & others = This
5is very distressing
Andrew came up with two
men I sent for him - says
a pain in his chest was the
cause - He mentioned it to
10no one - Reuben still
behind - sent 3 men for
him -
Says he is going to stop
with Mataka - sent for
15the musket a Govt. one
30th July 1866 a very
strong E{S}outh wind 55°
driving masses of
fleecy clouds before it
20see if this is not a
storm on coast
30th July 1866
1 H - 10 M to old village - 1 - 20 to
Pezimba = 2 H 30 M in all
The village consists of 200
5houses & huts - It is
placed very nicely on a
knoll between two gushing
burns which as usual
are made use of for
10irrigation - A great deal
of rust of iron appears
by one of them - The
head man said that we
had a good piece of
15jungle before us and
if we left now at
midday we should sleep
twice before reaching
Mbango - We therefore
0055
remained - An Arab
party hearing of the
English coming passed
this away through the
5country Southwards
We have now begun
our West{Southern} descent
for we came down 300
feet in 2½ hours
10crossed many rivulets
There is a decided scantiness
of trees on the mountains
and some are bare
of everything but grass
15The water-shed parts
streams to the Loendi &
Rovuma - water clear
and cold - Ambarre is
here called Nyumbo
Beautiful flowers are
seen but none in seed
a{one} Polygala very pretty
{figure} A great deal of
5Fern in spots - Rhodo-
dendrons and certain
trees whose foliage is
arranged to look like
silver firs in the
10distance
Mica schist crowned
some of the heights in
the watershed - Then
gneiss and now we
15have igneous rocks
of more recent date
cropping out
31st July 1866
Pezimba cooked a good
supper for us all and
this morning desired
us to wait as he had
not enough of meal
10pounded yet - It is
decidedly milder here
though we have come
down only 300 feet
We had stars & clear
15sky which we seldom
had during our stay
at Mataka's
1 H + 1-30 + 1 + 2 = 5-30
to Ntewire Mountain
where we slept by a
stream the Msapo -
1st August 1866
Two Johanna men
behind - sent back for
them - a very large
Arab slave party
10were near to us and
fled as soon as they
heard of our approach
taking a pathless course
across country
Arab party consisted
of 10 encampments
each capable of holding
80 or 100 slaves =
Johanna men had sat
20eating corn & Musa
applied the rod & on they came
0059
1 H - 10 M + 35 + 1-15 = 3 + 45
to a stream near Mbango
2 August 1866 - cheered
5by sight of yellow grass
and trees dotted over wide
space as in the Bechuana
country - Birds sang
[ ]{M}errily this morning
10inspired by the cold which
was 47° at 6. AM -
Gum copal trees & bushes
all over the country but
people do not dig for the
15gum if it exists - Marks
of former cultivation in
the ridges this people raise
to plant beans = cassava &
maize upon, are very
20abundant - also the
tubes used by smiths
in their furnaces and
many potsherads all
or most exhibiting the
imitation of basket work
impressed on the clay
4 hours to Mbanga
5a village embowered in
tree Euphorbias and wild
fig trees = country open
with but little forest
grass tall - no animals
10of any kind seen or even
their marks =
3d August 1866 -
Take Lunars == & reman
at Mbanga = Head man civil
cooks for us us - Every
5-thing Arab fashion ==
4th Aug. march to a
village on same level =
Miule 1 H - 30 M and at the
request of the chief who
10says we shall sleep in the
jungle if we leave today
I decide to remain over
night = Asked him
last night what had be-
15-come of the very large
population which formerly
occupied the highlands
and smelted iron He
replied a great many
20had died in years of
famine - others had
fled to the West of Nyassa
Had never heard of stone
being used as hatchets or
spear heads - never
dug any of them up
5I have seen wooden hoes
and wooden spears but
never {s}tone ones -
5th Aug. 1866 leave
Miule and march
10towards Lake Nyassa
In 1841 I saw a
bushwoman with a
round stone & a hole in
15it {figure} H{sh}e shew me how
she used it by inserting
the top of a digging stick in
it and digging a root - It
gave weight {figure}
1 H 30 M + 1 H
-5+2-5=4 40
+20=5 Hours
6th Aug 1866
Slept at the last stream
that runs to the Liendi
Passed seven running
burns - one the Longuena
seems to be the chief -
10the sound of gushing
water is by no means
an unfamiliar one on
these highlands but
the water at 62° is too
15cold for us to bathe in
Passed two cairns in
coming down the slope
with the Lake in view -
people ignorant of their
20origin - thought that they
were gathered by persons
making gardens -
6th Aug/66 - 1-30 + 1-20 to
Misinje going to Lake = 25
yds wide & knee deep -
{figure}
5 [ ]{We} cross
Misinje ^ again & sleep
at village there = - a
woman is the chief here
and various persons
10bring presents of food
which rather complicates
matters as we dont
know to whom to
make returns suitable
15to a head man's position
& claims & to whom to
give just about the
price of the present
I gave a cloth to woman
20chief - pressed me to stop
but we came on
7 Aug 1 H - 40 m to vil. on Misinje
again - we cross it third time
Headman possessing
much curiosity &
5generosity pressed us
to stay - Mt[ ]{ew}ando
is his name = the
country abounds in food
He gave 4 fowls & 3
10large baskets of maize &
pumpkins, also Elands
fat off a fine male as
seen by his horns = country
here considerably warmer
15than higher up
8th Aug. 1866
crossed Misinje again
and then marched 2 hours
to a little stream + 1-30 ==
203-30 to village at con-
-fluence of [ ]{Misinje} Misinje of
the East with Lake
Nyassa = Thanks to God
We are opposite Senga
or Tsenga the hills of
which appear thus
{figure}
5Kirk's range looms dimly
behind & South of them and
more clearly the outline of
Cape Maclear in the South
{figure}
10Headman here very
friendly in giving food
His people shew the
greater darkness of
the hot humid climate
15Those on the heights are
lighter = he has a thick
wig on {figure} is{He}
has good features
but is very
20dark
0067
He has some cows of
Mataka and gave me
milk - & boiled Hippo's
meat = cassava & millet
5porridge - Pleasant to
hear the roar of the sea
and bathe in the rollers
I feel exhilerated as if
I had come back to an
10old home which I did
not expect again to see
9th Aug 1866 - a
man brought a hundred
sanjika & Mpassa
15dried for sale = people
here bought them up
for retail to us - the
Mabele or Millet
porridge is not so
20bad as we found it
0068
when cooked by the
women here -
10th Aug. 1866 delicious
bathing in Nyassa -
5send off Wikatani
with Sultan's letter
to Jumbe to ask
if he can ferry us
across in his dhow
10to Kotakota = Juma
or Jumbe has made
that place too hot for
himself and now
proposes to come &
15live here at Loangwa
When Mataka's people
carried off the people
and cattle from
Lozewa which we
20saw sent back
0069
he pounced on the
stores of grain they left
and to which those
who escaped naturally
5returned = since then
he has felt insecure
and will probably come
here as the headman
will welcome him as
10a protection against
the Waiyau who now
inhabit Ngombo
about ½ a day south of
this -
Namtambwe a
bird which sings
very finely with a
strong voice after
dark = noticed here
20at Misinje confluence
Two headmen came down
the country after us to see
how we were treated as
they express it. They
5advise going to Mataka's
where the Lake is narrow,
11th Aug. 1866 Two
coast Arabs came and
offered a dhow which
10belongs to a Kilwa man
to take me across for
ten goiahs or pieces
of cloth each 26 cubits
I offered 10 dollars or
15£2 if they would take
me up the Lake then
across to Kotakota
After haggling they
agreed & went off this
20morning
12 Aug/66 to bring
it - to me at the
0071
confluence of Misinje
We are on Lat 13° [ ]{32}' 40"
S. or 5' S of Kotakota
latitude =
13th Aug/66 - Took boiling
point obsns & writing or
transcribing diary - The
head man a Manganja
one is very liberal with
10food - says that he is in
fear of the Waiyau
south of this - He has the
cattle of Mataka and
that chief told his enemies
15not to molest him -
Juma or as he is here
called Jumbe was
here lately making
arrangements for a
20residence here - He
has made Kotakota &
Losewa too hot for
himself and according
0072
to other a{A}rabs by selling
and sometimes killing
the people = no Arab
state can ever rise here
5as all their efforts are
directed to getting possess
of the people for export
to the coast - this head-
man is anxious to have
10Juma as a protection
from the Southern
Waiyau but he will do
here as he has already
done further North
Bought a frame
full of fish as large
as Yarmouth bloaters
many of them full
of spawn - they are
20Sanjika = Mpasa
& Bawala -
The slow fire makes
them quite hard, and
had they been salted they
would have been very
5like red herring, - the
{figure} headman gives me
milk & people who
come down country
sell us plenty of maize -
10- meal - potatoes and
cassava - pumpkins =
with milk I feel "in clover"
14th obliged to supplant
15Wikatani & Chuma in the
cooking department on
account of inveterate
carelessness = and always
losing my things - They
20allowed the Shupanga men
to consume my sugar
and last night left a basin
outside to be stolen -
0074
I am sorry to part with
them thus but they
evidently prefer the favour
of these two thieves to
5mine -
A swell on the Lake
is attributed by the
headman without hesitation
to wind in the S.W. -
15th sent Musa to see
what detained the dhow -
Took Lunars -
16th Musa came
20back says that the dhow
had gone to Jumbe I
suspect to consult him
0075
whom they all hate & vilify
declaring that he has swept
the country on the west
side of all the people by
5murdering & selling them
This is what he was doing
when I saw him last This
is the only way in which
their energies are bent
10very few of the common
Swahili can read or
write - so far from
prosely[ ]{ti}zing the heathen
they leave their own
15people quite beknighted
except as to what food
may & may not be
eaten -
Headman says that the
20Arabs are afraid that I
take their dows & go up to the
North end of Lake
H m
3 30 Mtwewondo to confluence
55 40 to Mlinjelenze (woman chief)
5 --- from Miule to Misinje
1 - 30 Mbanga to Miule
H
4 to Mbanga 2 Aug. 66
3 - 45. from Mtewire Mt. to sleeping
Pezimba to Mtewire Mtn
155 30 -- 12° 5 8'
2 30 - from M{ago}las to Pezimba
4 - 40 Mataka to Magola's
16 - 19 engaged in
map making and
writing up journal
A report reached us
5that Englishmen had
come after us with
buffaloes & they had
reached Mataka's &
had two [ ]{ey}es behind
10as well as before -
Headman tells me
his little afflictions
one of his wives ran
away - he has twenty
15and he was going
after her - I said that
he had 19 too many
He replied by the usual
reason but who
20would cook for
strangers if I had but one
20th Aug. 1866 Headman's
name Mkalaose = where
we have been since the 8th
21st start for Loangwa.
51-20 + 50 + 115 m = 1-55 = 4 H 05 m
The Loangwa is not more
than 20 yards wide near
confluence with Nyassa
Misinje is 60 yards at least
10as the same distance from
the Lake - Where we crossed
the Loangwa at the Arab
village it was thigh deep
but only a few yards of that
15Hired a canoe to carry a
sick Johanna man this
load - no food as usual
at the Arab village - but
a report of an Arab
20party cut off by Mazilu
at Mirazi's - this is to
deter us probably
0079
The dhow is to come to
morrow = very rough
stoney road along Lake
from Misinje
The Rocks near the Lake
of gneiss are tilted up
as if shoved away from
the Lake = Most are on
their edges - the dip nearly
10vertical & the strike the
long axis of the Lake = we
{figure} tread on their edges
as we come along
a few are twisted a
15 little but they keep
the strike remarkably
well and this we
observed a long way
off the Lake = about 20 ft
20perpendicular from the present
level of the Lake hardened
sandstorm is waterworn
and quite smooth - This
musstt have been its level formerly
22 Aug. 1866 Master
of dhow said it would
come today & today he
sends a man for it at
5Losewa - We could get
no sleep for the minute
ant's capers & chirruping
{figure}
23d Removal to S side
of Loangwa relieved us
of the pests - Arab
says he has sent for
5dhow but they are
such Liars no depend
ance can be placed on
a word they say -
24th a leopard took
10off a dog out of a house
close by us last night
25 proposed to head
man to send over for
Jumbe's dhow - told
15him all the Waiyau
had been friendly &
helped me - why not
he - He [ ]{w}as not an
Arab - We save a
0082
fine fat fowl & advis[ ]
waiting till the man
sent should return
from Losewa & then
5we could act on the
information brought
26th 13th Sunday
after Trinity --
27 wind from NE
10The dhows are said
to have come over to
Losewa and are waiting
for wind to come
down here -
28th headman presented
a leg of bush buck
which he shot - wind
high writing despatches
1866 - 29th Aug - News
came this morning
that the Mazitu had
come to the other side
15of the Lake and Jumbe
had fled up the hills
If they had said that
he had gone to an island
I would have thought
20the matter probable
but the Arabs seem
to wish me to go else
where than where they
are in the habit of
25going - Writing Despatch
30th Dhow people
playing me false - afraid
of me probably as all
the slave traders have been
5finished Despatches
today
31st Man whom we
sent to Losewa came
back saying he saw
10no dhow - some W A
Nyassa come in the
morning & they saw
it - Report says that
Jumbe is dead
1st Septr 1866
Resolve to go South
on Monday moda
to cross at Mukate's
L[ ]{un}ars today
3 Septr 1866 Went
down to the confluence
of the Misinje - met
many of the eatable
5insect "Kungu" - observed
two raised beaches
one with will worn
stones about 15 feet
from present high
10water mark - the other
for or fifty feet above
same point but the
last is less distinct
many of the stones
15have been split in the
usual way by heat &
cold & between the two all
are angular
the strike of the rocks -
tilted on edge just ^ parallel with on{along} the
major axis of Lake =
made very good blue ink
5from a berry which yields
a juice colour of dark
port wine - and a
little Ferri carb. ammon
4th Septr 1866.
10waiting for a Johanna &
Nassick drone - who
imitate the sepoys in
remaining behind till
we send for them -
is changing the colour
of its hair on the part
corresponding to the ribs &
It thick is becoming red
20the majority of country
dogs are of this
0087
colour - the exceptions
are black =
The Manganja seem an
aboriginal race - They are
5very black and have
great masses of hair
with but little of the
prognathous in the
profile - bodies &
10limbs very well made
women very lumpy &
plain - very industrious
in their gardens - working
from sunrise till about
15eleven - Then again in
the evenings - The men
at their fisheries at
night and generally
making twine or
20mending their nets by
day - They build the
huts - the women
plaster them
The "Kungu" when light
ashore make a hum
equal to a number of
bees = they have two wings
5and seem to have no
proboscis like Mosquitoes
It is probably the winged
state of some Lake insect
{figure} This is about the size
10or rather larger than it - When
magnified by my glass
it looks like this - They
are caught with baskets
when they light in large numbers
15ashore = & boiled in balls
Andrew remained
behind purposely because
a little more weight wa[ ]
put on his load than
20he chose - It was still
lighter than any other
As this is the second
0089
time he has done [ ]
ordered him 12 cuts
with the ratan - made
great outcry but it
5will have a good effect
A fish makes a
hole about a foot deep
& three feet in diameter
with raised ridge all
10round - This is evidently
a spawning place but
people dont know this
they call it their house
5th Septr 1866. gave
15Mokalaose some pumpkin
seed & some pease = He
took me to his house and
gave me some beer - I
drunk a little and sat &
20talked with him - He asked
0090
if I would like a servant
to "pata mimba" not
knowing what he meant
by pressing the belly & gave
5the servant the vessel &
told her to drink it - He
asked if I did not wish to
drink more - She then per
formed the pressing on
10himself while he took some
prolonged draughts - placing
herself in front she put both
hands round his waist below
the short ribs and pressing
15gradually drew them round
to his belly in front = This
is perhaps to make the liquor
go equally over the stomach
Reach Ngombo after
3 hours tramp along
Lake = Andrew left
rather than carry the
lightest load of the party -
At village on Misinje
5 H-40 m from sleeping place
5and down bottom of slope
at 3 PM 27.81- 98°
7th cross Misinje again
at 1 H - 40 minutes from
10sleeping village at 10-40
A.M. 28.1- 80°--
8th Aug./66= small stream
2 hours from Mtwewondo's
15vil - 9 AM 28.2. 75°
Do confluence of LuanginaMisinje
of East side with Lake Nyassa
11 AM 28.42 = 77°
1 H - 30 m down slope to Lake
6 Aug 1866 at 8-15 AM
526.74 = 77°5
Banks of Misinje flowing
to Nyassa at 10-15 AM
27.23 = 72° =
Rt 1 H 50 m further in at
101. PM 27.66. 80°-5
1½ S.W. Noon 26.35 -- 70°
1st August
Ntewire = H 1 SW of it 10 AM
526.3 = air 65° =
Near ^ 4 hours off Mbenga 3. P.M.
26.2 - Air 73° -
2 Aug 1866 - Ridges overlooking
10Mbanga 6{8} AM = 25. 9
AM. 26. 04 = air 66°2 -
Do - Do - Noon 25.9. 71°
Aug. 4th vil Miule 1-30
15from Mbanga at 9 AM
25.86 = air 65° -
5 Aug. 1 ½ to our SW of
Miule vil. at 9- AM
2025.95 - 65° =
Ridge overlooking Lake &
almost one day distant
25.75 = 77{8}° 2 PM
another nearer at 3 PM
2525.9 - 78°
28th July 1866 at Noon
Pass by Mj{un}jela No 1 26.055 = ans 70°5 -
Further on 3 PM 25.72 - 69°
Do - - 5 PM 25.5 - 60°
5PesimbaMagola's 29th July 6{7} AM
air 53° - 25.7 -
Do 30th at 7 - 30 AM -
27{5}.7 - air, 55°
one hour W. 10 AM 25.88. 62°
101 H - 20 to Pezimba - 26.15 = 64
Water ^ Loelele goes to East & then
into Chiringo which
flows into Rovuma
Lochezi goes SW into
15Loambala which goes into
Loendi
one hour SSW - at 9 AM
26.1 = air 65°
and care to avoid giving
offence are generally quite
remarkable - They seem
particularly anxious that
5no one shall be able to say
that they have been unjust
The bargain is closed only
when the seller says "cut
the cloth"- and if dissatisfied
10even after that he may
draw back but that would
be considered unmanly &
would be so declared to be by
the bystanders - a person
15may heard saying "now
you may go & tell all the
tribe I have cheated you"
meaning I am positive
that I have dealt by you
20fairly = "Mzungu Mbaya"
bad or sti[ ]{n}gy white man
was the most severe
reproach they could utter
and any gentleman among
25them would have submitted
to [ ] = as for fear the
treatment that he & Speke su{ta}mely bore shewed con
tempt only
Lozéwa Jumbe's place
Such an event as Mataka
sending back the captives
5& cattle taken by his people
cannot unfortunately be
taken as typical of the
general current of events in
this country - but rapine
10and murder cannot be
considered typical either -
There is seldom any
chivalry shewn - but
There is much courtesy is
15occasionally exhibited -
The duel kept ^ certain classes of society
among ourselves on
[ ]{their} good behaviour
Here we have no duelling
20and yet the punctiliousness
a fine for employing a man at my
expense
Kusichita = circumcision