Field Diary XV
David Livingstone


Date of composition: 7 July 1872 - 1 December 1872
Repository: David Livingstone Centre, Blantyre, United Kingdom
Shelfmark: 1131
Clendennen & Cunningham number(s): Field Diaries, 028
Digital edition and date: Livingstone Online, 2017
Publisher: University of Maryland Libraries, College Park, MD, USA
Project ID: liv_000015
Critical encoding: Adrian S. Wisnicki, Heather F. Ball, Anne Martin, Christopher Lawrence, Kate Simpson
Encoding dates: 2015-05-20, 2015-07-20, 2015-08-25, 2015-10-21, 2016-01-05, 2016-04-25, 2016-12-06, 2017-11-20, 2017-11-21




0001
0002
                        {figure}

    July
31 August
530 September
31 October
30 November + 12
31 December
21 July


10                        {figure}

        Jesus 1872
                            1873



[132]
0003
{figure}

{figure}

5

1289



0004
        XV.     1872

Unyanyembe July
7th
waiting wearily
here & hoping that the
5good & loving Father
of all may favour me
and help me to finish
my work quickly & well




10

#13th Phuñgo = Furukom-
be names of Kite which
appears here to-day>





14th - News from Mfuta
15that 200 of the Watuta who
were hired to fight for the
Arabs were slain and the
rest ran away - about
sixty of Mirambo's forc
20said to be killed = the
Arabs are now to go out
to fight so the end may be
near - they expect that

0005
Mirambo will flee - It
is a very general revolt
which Mirambo only
headed - as the ablest man
5among them - and he has
proved himself to be so -




15th Reported today
that 20 wounded men
10have been brought into
Mfutu from the field of
fighting - About 2000
are said to be engaged on
the Arab side and the
15side of Mirambo would
seem to be strong - but
the assailants have the
disadvantage of firing
against a stockade -
20while those outside are
unprotected except
by anthills bushes
and ditches in the field -



0006

16{17}th Went over to Sultan
bin Ali
yesterday - very
kind as usual - gave me
guavas and a melon
5called Matanga - It is reported
that one of Mirambo's
chief men Sorura set
sharp sticks in concealed
spots which acted like
10Bruce's "craw taes" at
Bannockburn and
wounded several probably
the 20 reported - this has
induced the Arabs to send
15for a cannon they have to
batter Mirambo at a
distance - the gun is carried
past us this morning
a brass seven pounder
20dated 1679 carried by the
Portuguese commander
in chief to China - {figure}
193 years ago &
now to beat Mirambo

0007
by Arabs who have very
little interest in the war -
Some of his people out
prowling two days ago
5killed a slave - the war is
not so near an end as
many hoped -


Strong cold winds pre-
vail now from the East
10and the temperature varies
more now than in the
first dry months - Min
is 55° - and temp - 57° at
6 AM - Wet B - 55°
153 PM DB Sun 112° - shade 68°



Sun shews temp endured
in travelling by day -


0008

18th S. 19th July 1872
visited Salem bin Seff -
entertained very hospitably
Nkisiwa returned - war
5unfinished - ! Baganda
have got Pagazi -




20th = High cold winds
prevail 6 AM 57° Min. 55°
10Noon on the ground 122°
It may be higher but I am
afraid to risk the thermometer
which is graduated to 140°
only -


15

"[      ] is most like God who
#is most generous and
tender, least patient with
himself, and most
20patient with others -
He is not nearest God
who goes most frequently
to his closet, but he
0009
#who generates most
love
" - H. W. Beecher




21st Lewale returns
5today from K Mfutu
on his own private
business at Kwikuru
success of the war is
a minor consideration
10with all - I wish my
men would come &
let me off from this
weary waiting -


Some philosophizing is
15curious - It represents
our maker forming
the machine of the Uni-
-verse, setting it agoing
and able to do nothing
20more outside certain

0010
of his own laws - He
as it were laid the egg of
the whole and like an
ostrich left it to be hatched
5by the sun - We can
control laws but he
cannot - A fire set to
this house would con
-sume it but we can
10throw on water and
consume the fire
We control fire water
the elements - Is He
debarred from doing
15the same and more
who has infinite wisdom
and knowledge - He
surely is greater than
His own laws - civili-
20zation is only what has been
done with natural laws

0011
21st July 1872 continued
Some foolish specu-
-lations in morals
resemble the idea of a
5Muganda who said
last night that "if
Mteza did not kill
people now & then
his subjects would
10suppose that he was
dead"!       Bartooma?
Ngovya     Katanda Mt
Kibanga #   Unyoro Mountains
Motitiri
15Gabalagala
Unyoro Mt


0012

22nd July 1872 -


The plan other than an
Expedition referred to
by Government may
5have been a private
offer of a person al-
-ready out to take a
few Arabs at Zanzibar -
- go inland - solve the
10Nile problem by
looking at the end of Tañgan
-yika
- then call me
out of Manyema
where I was reported
15to be in idleness as
one of the Arabs and
dreaming of a Lake
West of it - Possibly

0013
the non asking by
the Council about the
"other plan" may have
screened him who
5desired to supersede
me -             X




What is the atonement
of Christ - It is Himself -
10It is the inherent and
everlasting mercy of
God made apparent
to human eyes and
ears - the everlasting
15love was disclosed by
our Lord's life & death
It shewed that God
forgives because he
loves to forgive -
20He works by smiles
if possible - if not by
frowns - Pain is only
a means of enforcing love


0014

23d July 1872




"Spite and illnature
are the most expensive
5luxuries ofin life
" Brunel -




The Lewale interdicts
the Baganda from
going today - He says
10"You may, go but leave
all the gunpowder here
because Mirambo
will follow you and
take it all to fight
15with us" - This is an
afterthought for he
hurried them to go off -
A few will go and
take the news and
20some goods to Mteza
and probably a lot of
Lewale good to

0015
trade at Karagwe.
The Baganda are
angry for now all
their cattle and much
5of their property are
expended here but
they say "we are strangers
and what can we
do but submit" the
10Banyamwezi carriers
would all have ran
away on the least
appearance of danger
No troops are sent
15by Sayed Burghash
though they were
confidently reported
long ago - all
trade at a standstill


0016

24th July 1872 - Uny_be




Visited Lewale at Kwi-
-kuru
- He says that
5all the fighting men
have quietly slipped
away from the war
and he was left alone -
hunger is the excuse!
10- Put a blister on Nkas-
iwa
's neck to see if it
will relieve pain of a
paralytic neck & left side


Lewale confirms the
15great damage done by
a cyclone at Zanzibar
to shipping - houses -
cocoa nut palms -
mango trees & clove trees -
20Also houses and dhows
five days after S
Burghash
returned


0017


Safen volunteers
to go with us because
Muhamad Bogharib
5never gave him
anything - and Bwana
Mohinna
has asked
him to go with him
I accepted his
10offer and will ex-
plain to Muhamad
when I see him that
this is what he pro-
-mised me in the
15way of giving men
but never performed


0018

25th July 1872 - S. -




26th 7th Bin Nasib came
last night and visited me
5before going home to his
own house = A tall brown
polite Arab - says that
he lately recieved a
packet for Mr Stanley
10from the American
Consul sealed in tin
and sent it back - this
is the eleventh that came
to Stanley


15

A party of native
traders who went with
the Baganda were attacked
by Mirambo's people
20and driven back with
the loss of all their
goods & one killed
the fugitives returned
this morning, sorely
25down cast


0019

A party of 23
loads left for Kargwe
a few days ago and
the leader alone has
5returned - does not
know more than that
one was killed -


Another was slain
on this side of
10Mfutu by Mirambos
people yesterday
Country thus still
in a sadly disorganized
state - Sheikh bin
15Nasib
says that
the Arabs have
rooted out 52 head
men who were Mirambo's
allies


0020

28th July 1872




To Nkasiwa - blister to
sacrum & to be left for a
5time - First relieved
the pain & pleased him
greatly - Hope he may
derive benefit -


cold East wind & clouded
10thickly all over sky -




29th making flour
for the journey of Rice -
visited Sheikh bin
15Nasib
who has a severe
attack of fever - cannot
avoid going to the war
because all Arabs would
leave if he did -


20

Sheikh but bought a
donkey with the tusk
he stole from Lewale
and it died yesterday -
Now Lewale says -
25"give me back my tusk"
& Arab replies "give

0021
"back my donkey."
The father must pay -
but his son's character
is lost as well as the
5donkey - Bin Nasib
gave me a present
of wheaten bread and
cakes -




10

30th Weary Weary
waiting         this, and
the best time for
travelling passes over
unused - High winds
15from the East every
day bring cold
, and
to the thickly clad Arabs
Fever


Bin Omari called -
20goes to Katañga with
another man's goods
to trade there -


0022

31st July 1872 We
heard yesterday from
S - bin Nasib that the
caravan of his brother
5Kisessa was at a
spot in Ugogo twelve
days
from this - My
party had gone by
another route - thank-
10-ful for even this in
my wearisome waiting






1st August 1872


A large body of Ba-
15-ganda
came to see what
was stopping the way
to Mteza - about 10 head
men and their followers
but they were told by an
20Arab in Usui that the
war with Mirambo

0023
was finished = about
30 of them came on to
Mfuta and will come
here tomorrow - to be
5dispatched back for all
the Baganda in Usui
to aid in fighting Miram-
-bo
- It is proposed to
take a stockade near
10the central one & therein
build a battery for the
cannon which seems
a wise measure -


Went over to apply
15medicine to Nkasiwa's
neck - to heal the outside
the inside is benefitted
somewhat - but the
power will probably
20remain incomplete
as it now is -


0024

2nd August 1872




The Baganda came
yesterday - a poor slave
5looking people clad in
bark cloth "Ubugu" &
having shields with
a boss in the centre - round
and about the size of the
10ancient Highland targe
but made of reeds
the Baganda here said
that most of the new
comers were slaves
15& would be sold - for
cloths - Extolling the size
of Mteza's country they
asserted that it would
take a year to go across
20it - When I joked them
they explained that a
year with them meant
5 months - 3 of rain -
2 dry and rain again


0025


3d New ☾ last night




4th Wearisome waiting
5and the sun is now
very hot at midday
and will become hotter
right on to the rainy
season in November
,
10but this delay may be
all for the best =




5th visited Nkasiwa
& recommended
15shampooing the dis-
-abled limbs with oil
or flour - says that
the pain is removed -
More Baganda
20have come to Kirira -
and will be used for
the Mirambo war.
They are a poor slave
looking lot clad in
25bark cloth well prepared


0026

6th I can think of
nothing but "when will
these men come"? sixty
days was the period
5named - Now it is
eighty four - It may be
all for the best in the
good Providence of the
Most High -


10

7th - 8th S. High East winds




9th {figure}


9th {figure}


15

I do most devoutly
thank the Lord for
his goodness in
bringing my men

0027
near to this = Three
came today 9th Aug -
and how thankful -
I am, I cannot
5express - Oswell
turned too and
embarked in the
same ship with the
naval officers -
10It is well - the men
who went with Mr
Stanley
came again
to me "Bless the
the Lord O my
15Soul and all that
is within me bless
his holy name Amen


0028

10th August 1872 -


sent back the three men
who came from the Safari
with 4 dotis & 3 lbs of
5powder - called on
the Lewale to give the
news as a bit of polite-
ness - found that the
old chief Nkasiwa
10had been bumped by
an ox and a bruise
on the ribs may be
serious at his age -
this is another delay
15from the war as he was
to go again to it - It is
only half heartedly
that anyone goes -


Oswell is said to have
20been scared by the

0029
accounts given by
Stanley of war
and many dangers
It is best for being
5quite inexperienced
and alone it might
have gone hard with
him - So I am
thankful trusting
10that it will all be
for the best - To
do all alone will
give me an influence
and name which I
15pray may be turned
for good in the
abolition of this
nasty slave trade


0030

15th August 1872




The men came on the
11th having been 74
5days
from Bagamoio
Most truly thankful
to the giver of all good
I am - I have to give
them a rest of a few
10days - and then start


0031

16th KiTikisha =
earthquake about
7 - PM - shook me
in my Kitanda
5with quick vibrations
and they gradually
became fainter
It lasted some 50 seconds
and was observed
10by many -


0032

1 Hatibo No 4 tin
2 Farahame Tool box
3 Shabane Ammn box x
4 Mabruki Do box x
55 Radiabo - Tin unopened
6 Shomari = cloth bale
7 Moariko - 1 bale cloth
8 Tom beads Ammn box x
9 Maganga = Brass wire
1010 Moarim Do
11 Boheti wooden box & coffee
12 Musa = Brass wire
13 Ghamsin - S Line
14 Salaming Tin N 2
1515 Twakari Am. box x
16 Moinye butter
0033
17 Ghamees - Tea
18 Suedi Brass wire
19 Bon Ali - long box
20 Taofuki Kettle & Tar
521 Chaoperi = clothes box
22 Baraka - Brass wire
23 Lesasse - candles &c
24 Namuri - Am box x
25 Syde = flour tin
1026 Ghamees = my box
27 Bilale = = Am- box o
28 Hamada = Brass wire
29 Juma cham- & tea
30 Sonjero - bale small
1531 Feruz - wood box Am x
32 Radjab bale
33 Sangoro 2d bale
0034
34 Damungu bale
35 Hassani bale
36 Magaoa bale
37 Matheu bale
538 Upangawazi bale
39 Ramadan bale
40 - Keresh = bale
41 Hassani bale S.
42 - Adiade - bale
1043 Kef Halek Am- box x
44 Chanda Beads
45 Mabruki of U. Beads
46 Gardner - Beads
47 Kendette Beads
1548 Ghamees wasale - flour
49 Tofiki Tar & kettle
50 Bon Ali - long tin box
        30 wanted -
51 Ghamees Sarboko box{Bead &} flints
2052 Muftaa - Tindi Beads 1 doti
53 Nyasperi - gun Beads Tuu



0035

    coley =         Bubu
#Masanga = cart - long box
Kalasha = Sungomazi
get 10 dotis bound up

5Musa bin Hema - Matunde
Kipanila = boat
Makotobo Do & oars
Maganga = Tar Tent
Nañkoñgo = bed
10Mkizi = 4 dotis Am box & 2 sam
Nasibu 4 dotis = boat
At Gunda engaged & fled
Nubi 4 dotis = copper
2 Deserters
15# Bakari 4 dotis = boat
Bakari take 1½ doti = remain ½ doti




Amm boxes 8 = 1 Sungas




20

Sadalla P. 3½ dotis
takes the copper


0036

Of Athman Do 3 ½
& Kitandi = dort 1 - ½




Boheti = 1 doti#   sick
5Maganga = 1 doti   ½ & fundi
Hassani = 1 doti   ½ & fundi
Mabruki = lazy & sheepa
Kolongo = Taghetse
has a white patch
10below orbital sinus
about 4 inches long and
1½ broad






We left Kwihara on
1525th August 1872 - lost
2 days by thieves - at
Manyaia's on 6th Septr
to rest - as it is hot &
many take fever -
20             of August 6 days
             of Sept     6 -

0037
    Distance 54' + or
      27 hours




Mabruki utterly useless
5has sheepa & laziness


0038
A
{figure}
0039
B
{figure}
{figure}


5{figure}


{figure}
0040

1st September 1872




arrived at Chikulu &
bought provisions for
5ten days as water is
scarce & but little food
can be obtained at the
villages - country is
very dry & wintry looking
10but flowers shoot out
First clouds all over

today - It is hot now




2nd Septr people are
15preparing their ten days
food = Two pagazi
ran away with 24
dotis of man's calico -
send after them but
20with small hope of
capture




3d = unsuccessful search




25

4th Leave Chikulus
and pass a large puff
0041
adder in way = a simple
blow on head killed it
so that it did not stir -
About 3 feet long and
5as thick as a man's
arm = a short tail &
flat broad head - then
said this is a very
good sign for our
10journey = though it would
have been a bad sign
& suffering & death
had one trodden on it
came to Ziwane large
15tree & waters SSW. 4 ¼




5th a long hot tramp to
Manyara's a kind
old man = many tired
20and sick SSW 5¾




6th Rest people


7th Several ill of Fever


0042

8th September 1872


March to Ngombe
Nullah S.W         4


A poor woman of
5Ujiji followed a man
of Stanley to coast - He
cast her off ^ here & she was
taken by another but
her temper seems too
10excitable = set fire to her
hut by accident & in
the excitement quarrelled
all round = she is a
somebody's bairn never
15the-less = a tall strapping
young woman = must once
have been the pride of her
parents.




20

9th Telekeza at broad point
of Nullah = then went
on 2 hours & passed night
in forest                                 3


10th Came on to Mwara
25& spent night there by
a pool = vil 2 miles off




11th & Telekeza

0043
Sun very hot & marching
fatiguing to all -


Madjuana has an insect
in the aqueous chamber of
5his eye - It moves about
and is painful =


We found that our old
path from Mwaro has
water and must go early
10tomorrow morning &
so avoid the roundabout
by Morefu - We shall thus
save two days which in
this hot weather is much for
15us -


We hear that Simba has
gone to fight with Fipa
Two Banyamwezi volun
teers -


20

12th we went by this
water till 2 PM then make
a march & tomorrow get
to villages = got a buffalo
25and remain over night
Water in Haematite 4W




13th   WSW                     


14       SW - Kamiramba
30        6


0044
    Motepatonze Pag 1 doti
Nsakusi          Do 1 doti
Muan mzungu 1 doti
Mayombo 1 doti 12 Sept

5

paid at Mrera's 1 doti each


Engaged the above
Two ran on 18th
pagazi on 12th at
Brown Haematite water
10thence to ^ river & land of Kamirambo
Water in pools in rivulet
on 13th 3½ + 2½ on
      14th = 6




15

15th on to near                 9
range of hills                 
Much large game
Ill with bowels -




20

16th climbed over range
about 200 feet high - then on
Westwards to stockaded
villages of Kamirambo
his land begins at the
25Mtoni = buy corn 2




0045

17th To Metambo R
broad & marshy = begins
land of Mrera - Through
forest with many strychnine
5trees in it - W & by S =
at Mrera's =




18th Remain at Mrera to
prepare food ---


10

19th Do - Do & because I
am ill with bowels
having eaten nothing
for eight days - Simba
15wants us to pass by
his village & not by
the straight path




20th Went to Simbas
20about NW.    
Simba sent a
handsome present of
food - a goat eggs &
a fowl - beans split-
25rice = dura = Sesame
I gave him 3 dotis of
superior cloths


0046

21st Septr 1872 Rest
here as my bowels do
not yield to medicines
on time, but begin to
5eat now which is a
favourable symptom




22nd preparing food
and one pretends ina-
10bility to walk - send for
pagazi to carry loads
of those that carry him
Simba sends copious
libations of pombe


15

23d pagazi after demanding
enormous pay walked off -
Went on along rocky
banks of a stream & crossing
20it camped because the
next water is far off




24th Recovering & thankful
but weak - cross broad sedgy
25stream                 Then on to
another and so to Boma
Misonghi
W & by S.


0047

25th got a buffalo and
an Mjeere & remain to
eat them = getting better slowly
Mjeere or water hog all
5eaten by Hyaenas during
night - buffalo safe




26th through forest along
-side a sedgy valley = cross
10its head water rust of irony
Then W & by S = Forest in
very much tsetse
zebras calling loudly &
Senegal long claw in our
15camp at dawn Oh ō ō ō ō ō o o o o o




27th On at dawn - no water
expected but we crossed three
abundant supplies before
20we came to hill of our
camp = much game about
getting well again = thanks
      about West      
No people or marks of
25flowers sprouting in
expectation of rains
Much land burned
off but grass short yet


0048

28th September 1872
At two hills with mushroom
topped trees on W side = cross
a good stream = 12 ft broad
5& knee deep
= Buffaloes
grazing = many sick


While camping a large
musk cat broke forth
among us & was killed =
10yabade = musk = Ngawa
black with white stripes
From point of nose to
tip of tail         4 ft
height at withers         1 - 6 in


15

{figure}
0049
{figure}
0050

29th Septr 1872 Through
much Bamboo & low hills
to Mpokwa ruins & River
The latter in a deep rent in
5alluvial soil very hot
and many sick in
consequence = Sambala
fish abundant W




10

30th away among low tree
covered hills of granite
and sandstone = found
that Bangala had assaulted
the village to which we went
15a few days ago & all were
fugitives W.S.W. 4
Our people found
plenty of batatas in the
deserted gardens = a great
20help for all were hungry






F 1st October 1872 Friday
on through much deserted
cultivation in rich damp
25soil - surrounded with
low tree covered ranges
saw a few people, but
all are in terror

0051
W & by N.




2nd obtained Mtama in
abundance for brass wire
5and remain to grind it
people had been without
any for some days &
now rejoice in plenty
A slight shower fell
10at 5 AM not enough
to lay dust
-




3d South & down a steep
descent into a rich valley
15with much green maize
in ear - people friendly
but it was but one hour
so we went on through
hilly country about SW-
20men firing off ammuni
tion had to be punished
crossed Katuma R in
bottom of valley 12 ft &
knee deep
- camp

25in Forest


Farjella shot a fine
buffalo - weather dis
agreably hot & sultry
-


0052

4th October 1872 over
the same hilly country = grass
burned off but stalks disa
-greable = came to a fine
5valley with a large herd
of zebras feeding quietly
Pretty animals - Went
only an hour & a half
as one sick man is
10carried and it is hot
& trying for all - I feel it
much internally & am
glad to move slowly
W and by S.


15

5th Octr Up & down
mountains very sore on
legs & lungs - trying to save
donkeys strength I climbed
20and descend & as soon as
I mounted off he set as
hard as he could run on a
slope & he felt not the bridle -
saddle was loose but I stuck
25on till we reached water in
a bamboo hollow, about
WS.W with spring 3


0053


6th along bamboo valley
with giraffe in it - Range
on our right left us &
5that on the right dwindled
away = all covered with
bamboos in tufts like other
grasses - Elephants eat
them course about W & by S
10Short marches on account
of carrying one sick man




7th over fine park like
country with large belts of
15Bamboo & fine broad
shady trees W to end
of left hand range &
after Telekeza + 2¾ =
4
over a level forest
20with much Haematite
trees large & open - large
game evidently abund-
ant and waters generally
are not far apart - our
25neighbour got a zebra
a Rhinoceros & two young
elephants WSW         4


0054

8th October 1872 = came
on early as sun is hot
& in 2 hours saw the
Tanganyika from a
5gentle hill = land rough
with angular fragments
of quartz = Rocks of
mica schist tilted up
as if away from Lakes
10longer axis = some upright
and some have basalt
melted into the layers &
chrystalized in irregular
polygons = all very tired
15and on coming to a stockade
refused admittance because
Malongwana had attacked
them lately & we might
seize them when in the
20stronghold = very true so
we sit outside in the
shade of a single Palm
Borassus S.W 4




25

9th Rest because all
are tired & several

0055
sick = this heat makes
me useless & constrains
me to lie like a log.
Inwards feel tired too


5

Jangeañge leaves us
tomorrow having found
canoes going to Ujiji




S 10th People very tired
10and it being moreover
Sunday we rest -
gave each a keta of beads
Leave Usowa = chief Ponda




15

11th Reach Kalema
district
after 2¾ hours
Over black mud all
deeply cracked & many
deep torrents now dry
20Kalema is a stockade
        SW - We see
Tanganyanyika
but a range of low
hills intervenes - a
25rumour of war to-
morrow


0056

12th We wait till 2 PM
and then make a forced
march towards Fipa
People cultivate but little
5from fear of enemies so
we can buy few provisions
Left broad valley with
a sand river in it where
we have been two days
10and climbed range of hills
parallel to Tanganyika
Mica schist & gneiss
tilted away from Lake
met a buffalo on top of one
15ridge was shot into & lay
down but we lost it -
course SW to drink of
Tanganyika water




20

13th Our course went
along the top of a range of
hills lying parallel with
the Lake - a great part of
yesterday was on the same
25range = it is a thousand
feet above the water & covered
with trees rather scraggy


0057

at sunset the red glare
on the surface made
the water look like a sea
of reddish gold = It seemed
5so near many went off
to draw but were three
or four hours
in doing so
Cannot see other side on
account of the smokes in
10the air but this morning
three capes jut out and
the last bearing SE from
our camp seems to go
near the other side


15{figure}

very hot weather = to
Town of Fipa tomorrow
Course about S =


0058

The first parallel ranges
observed had fine grained
sandstone schists = then
followed mica schists
5and lastly micaceous
gneiss with prominent
chrystals of felspar and
talc scattered over it = all
tilted up nearly on edge
10and cropping out with
strikes nearby
or the same as the
major axis of the rent
which originally formed
15the Lake - detached masses
of porphory appear
between the gneissic
strata and as we come
near the water these
20give way to white
quartz rocks


0059




13th Octr 1872 Near a
chief village of Fipa &
on bank of Tanganyika
5or say 30 feet above water
3 PM clear sky - wind
gentle = 93° in shade

1 = 27-02
2 = 27.22 #   8{9}3
103      27.86




14th crossed two deep
gullies with sluggish
water in them & one
15surrounding an old
stockade - Camp on
a knoll overlooking
modern stockade &
Tanganyika very
20pleasantly = saw two
beautiful sultanas w
azure blue necks
S - might have come
yesterday but tired


0060

Mukombe land chief
Kariaria = vil Mokaria
Mt Mpambwe goes into
the Lake = Ntambwe Mt &
5Kafumfwe =


Kapufi chief of Fipa




14th Noon & about 50 ft
above Lake clouded over


10{figure}




15th Rest & kill an ox -
the dry heat is distressing &
all feel it sorely - I am right
15glad of the rest but keep on
as constantly as I can -
By giving dura & maize to
the donkeys & riding on
alternate days they hold on
20but I feel the sun more
than if walking - chief
Kariaria civil


0061
C
{figure}
0062

15th Octr 1872 At vil
Mokaria
{figure}



5




16th leave Mokaria &
go South crossing several
bays of the Tanganyika
10path winding =
people fired camp as
soon as we started




{figure}


0063
                                        {figure}

17th Octr 1872






Leave a bay of Tanganyika
5& go on to Mpimbwe
Mt
- Two lions growled
savagely as we passed
game swarming but
my men cannot shoot
10except to make a noise
Went & telekeza at 2 PM
found many Lepidosirens
in a muddy pool &
vultures catching &
15eating them - men speared
one which had scales
and its tail bitten off
by a cannibal brother
Mouth large and entire
20length about 2 feet -
curious Roe like portions
near its backbone -
yellow - good flesh
on & up a pass at East
25end of Mpimbwe Mt &
at a rounded mass of
it find water = .
about S. in all       4


0064

18th October 1872 Went on
about South among Mts
all dry till we came down
by a little Westing to Lake
5again at large villages well
stockaded with a deep gully
half round them = ill
with bowels = again


Bubwe chief
10food dear because
Simba made a raid
here lately - country Kilando




19th Remain to prepare
15food & rest the people in
country Kilando =
Nkoma islet here
Nkolenge islet in front
{figure}


0065
{figure}




20th We got a Waterbuck
and a large buffalo and
5remain during the
forenoon to cut up the
meat then go on about
2 PM - Went on and
passed a large arm of
10Tanganyika having a
bar of hills on its outer
border - country swarm
ing with large game
passed two bomas &
15spent night near one
E & then S -     


0066

21st Mokassa a Muganda
boy has a swelling of the
ancle which prevents his
walking - went 1 hour to
5wood to make a litter
for him - Bomas all
plastered with mud
so as to intercept balls
or arrows = trees all cut
10down for these stockades
deep gullies cut the flats
up - much cultivation
Siwampepo Mts
Sabia Mt
15Much cotton cultivated & cloth made
        Kafungia arm of Ta
Sent a doti to headman
of village where we make the
litter to ask a guide to go
20straight South instead of
going East to Fipa which
is four days off & out of
our course


Tipo tipo said to be at
25Moriro W of Tanganyika


0067


22nd turned back Westwards
& went through hills down to large
islets in Lake - stop at villages
5destroyed bySimba = SW -       
Much cotton cultivated
Noon 30 ft above Lake


{figure}
D
10{figure}
0068

23d S. first East then
past two deep bays at one
we put up as they have
food to sell = walls of the
5Boma plastered with
clay - Lake sides are a
succession of rounded
bays from shapes of the
valleys of the hills - In
10Nyassa they seem made
by the prevailing winds
only one hour & chiefly about
South & by East         
Rain probably fell
15last night
of opposite
shore is visible today
Banda high slopes down
as it goes South
Country here Motoshi



20{figure} {figure}
very many falling traps
pass Buffaloes wherever
they are to be caught by
going down for water


0069
E
{figure}
0070

24th Octr 1872 many rounded
bays in mountainous Fipa
rested two hours in a
deep shady dell & then
5came along a very
slippery rocky mountain
side to village in stockade
very hot & first thunder in
the East
- about SW{E} in
10afternoon - forenoon SE{W}
altogether = Linde vil         5




25 Coast ran SSE to a
cape = we went up SE then
15over a high steep hill to
turn to S again = then
down into a valley at Ta
over another stoney ride &
down to a dell with village
20in it - West coast very
plain = rain must have
fallen there =
Mesamba vil.
Noon high North wind
25clouded sky = thick cumuli

Level & Lake


0071
{figure}

Kitanda ^ islet & land tomorrow
Level of Lake Chisumbe say




5

26th Octr 1872 Over hills
& mountains again past
two deep bays and on to
a large bay with a prominent
islet on South side of it
10called ChisumbeKitanda from
chiefs name also a rivulet
of fine water of same name
Three villages with food
about SSE - 4


15

27th Remain to buy
food which is very dear
slaughtered a tired cow
to buy grain


20

1st Passed Mer Gruis
100º 37 30


2nd of passing Mer
100' 41 10 at 25 past 8
at Kitanda islet


0072
{figure}


28th Octr 1872


at vil of Mpembe land
5Mosirwa chief = Kasamane
Barile - Bulungu in
Kasango Do
Mbette Do
Left MoliloKitanda islet and
10came round cape going
South farthest off cape
was N.N.W in bearing
came to three villages &
some large spreading trees
15where we were invited by
headman to remain as
next stage along shore is
long


Morilo islet is on the
20other or Western side
at the crossing place


0073
{figure}




The people brought in a
Leopard in great triumph
5The mouth & all its
claws bound with grass
and bands of bark as
if to make it quite safe
and its tail curled round -
10- drumming & lullilooing
in plenty


{figure}
{figure}


15{figure}
0074

28th Octr 1872 the chief
Mosirwa or Kasamane
paid us a visit & is
preparing a present of
5food - one of his men
was bitten by the Leopard
on the arm before he
killed it - Molilo or
Morilo islet is the crossing
10place of Banyamwezi
for Cazembe & is near to
the Lofuko R on Western shore - Lake
about ^ 12 or 15' broad = at
7º 52' South = Tipo tipo
15is ruling in Itawa and
bound a chief in chains
but loosed him on being
requested to do so by Syde bin
Ali


20

Time to cross at Morilo ? 3 hours
Lofuko R. where ?                 or so
R Luangwa a little N of Morilo
Hot fountain ? a little S of this


0075

at level of Lake 3 PM


{figure}


29 cross Thembwa Rt
520 ft & knee deep & sleep
on its ˄ E bank = fine cold
water over stoney bottom
The mountains now close
in upon Tanganyika
10so that there is no path
but one over which
luggage cannot be carried
The stage after this is
6 hours up hills before
15we come to water - this
forced me to stop
after only a short
crooked march of
We are now on the
20confines of Fipa
next march takes
us into Burungu


0076

30th Octr 1872


Level of Lake 5 30 AM
27º-0 = 75º base of Tala
26.3 = 81º Pass in Mt
5at 6.30 AM = Tala Mt
Pass in Mt Kasoňko
26.45 = 82º = 9 AM
At level of Lake
27.10 = 86º at 10 AM


10

The highest parts of
the mountains from
500 to 700 feet higher
than the passes or
say from 1300 to 1500 ft
15above the Lake =
very rough march - one
cow fell & was disabled
Stones all collected in
little heaps & rows shewing
20former cultivation of
all these rough Mts =
arrive at vil at Lake
at Kirila islet
¼ mile from shore

0077
top of a hill?


Winelao Mt on South
side of bay - Kala on N side
Kisinga land here on 30th
5Megunda people cultivate
the hills in former times


Thunder all morning
and a few drops of
rain fell
- men call
10out earnestly for it
"come come with Hail"
and prepare their
huts for it - when it
does fall it will ease
15their feet




At level of Lake on 30th
{figure} At 3 PM
clouded all
20over & thundering




31st Through a long pass
after we had climbed over
Winelao talus - came to
25an islet 1½ miles long - #called islet Kapessa
Then into long pass


0078

31st Oct 1872 population
of Megunda must have
been prodigious for all
the rough mountains
5have had the stones arranged
and every available inch of
soil cultivated = going South
we came to a very large
arm of Lake with vil at
10end in stockade 7' or 8' miles
long
& about 2' broad

        course chiefly S -
population said to have
been all swept away by
15the Matuta =


Killed a cow & found
peculiar flatworms in
the substance of the liver
also some rounded too


20

M 1st November 1872
We hear that an eruption
of Babemba on the Ba
-ulungu
destroyed all the
25food - tried to buy here
but it is all hidden
in the mountains

0079
so we have to wait
today till it is brought
If in time we shall
make an afternoon's
5march = Rainy =
R Mueu from Chingolao
gave us much trouble in
crossing from its being
filled with vegetation - It
10goes into Tanganyika
course S & East 2
Afternoons march




2nd Novr decieved by a
15guide who probably
feared his countrymen
in front - went round a
stoney cape then to a
land locked harbour
203' long by 2' broad


F
{figure}
0080

2nd Novr 1872 Went over
hills till we came to a stockade
in a land locked harbour
guide then absconded and
5being told that by marching
still over hills we should not
get water for four hours
we rested after S. {figure}
Mosunwe bay
10Morua land
Afternoons march #
Sompo a fish = Lepidosiren
Mkongolo outside hill of
Mosunwe bay


15

3d Novr Morning's march
to a village where food was
reported = had to punish
two useless men for calling
20out Posho posho posho
rations &c as soon as
I came near - one a con-
firmed banga smoker
The blows were given slightly
25but I promised the next to
be severe - S -
People of Liemba village
having a cow or

0081
two & some sheep &
goats eagerly advised us
to go on to next village
as being just behind a
5hill & well provisioned
Four very rough hills
were the penalty of our
credulity in four & a half
hours
of incessant toil
10In these mountain
fastnesses they hide their
food and the ways are
the most difficult that
can be found in order
15to wear out their enemies
We went about S - & saw
Tanganyika near twice
morning march 1½ + 4½ = 5{6}½
to R Luazi


20

4th Novr very tired all =
try to get food - very dear
& difficult to bargain for -
goods are probably brought
25from Fipa = It is probable
we cannot start today
& all are so tired it will be
beneficial


0082

4th Novr 1872 {figure}
{figure}
R Luazi near confluence
with Ubita R & about
52' E of Lake
[                ]

{figure}


0083
                                        G
{figure}
0084

5th November 1872 Went
up a high mountain and
found that a cow could
not climb = sent back &
5slaughtered it waiting on the
top of the mount while the
people went down for water
Mabruki Speke useless &
false in depriving beasts
10of water & lying to hide it
to top of Mount 1 + in
afternoon over Mts 2½ =
See Mbettes




15

6th Pass a deep narrow
bay & climb a very steep
mountain - too much for
the best donkey - with rests =
4 hours = Look down on
20many bays = a sleepy
glare lies on the lake
Came along a ledge of rocks
& looked down 500 or 600 ft
sheer into dark green waters
25saw 3 zebras & a young
python = fine flowers
South chiefly -                 3
Afternoon over another
hill & down into a large
30bay with vil - 2 + = 5

0085
        15 yds & thigh deep
At Rt ^ Kawa in Kasanga




7th S. Remain but the
5headman forbade his
people to sell us food -
We keep quiet except to
invite him to a parley
which he refuses and
10makes loud lullilooing
in defiance as if we
were inclined to fighting
but seeing that we took
no notice headman sent
15a present & I returned thrice
its value




8th Large donkey very
ill & unable to climb the
20high mountain in our
front - left men to coax
him on & they did it well
then sent men to find a
path out from the Lake
25mountains for they
will kill us all & others
to buy food but Lake
folks are poor save in
fish = climbing Mtn was
30an hour East 1


0086

9th November 1872
Got very little food & killed
a calf to fill mouths a little -
paths East seemed to get out
5of mountains of Tanganyika
Went on East this morning
on highland open forest
then descend by a long slope to
a valley with water = many
10mileza gardens but people
keep out of sight E                 3
then send to search for
a village to which we
will go by afternoons
15march - Donkey began
to eat to my great joy -
Highlands are of purple
colour from new leaves
coming out - ill & bleeding
20freely - men too late
for our march - got
nothing




10th Out of Lake mountains
25and along high ridges of hard
sandstone & dolomite
High range flanking Lake
on our right =
came to Rt & our
30guide volunteered

0087
to take men on to buy food
an acceptable offer
Donkey recovering = It
was distinctly the effects
5of Tsetse bite = swelling
over the eyes and all
the mouth & nostrils swelled
Another died at Kwihara
with all the symptoms
10of Tsetse poison fully
developed - got a small
amount of food -




11th Over gently undulating
15country with many old
gardens & watchouses
some of great height
Reached R Kalambo
which I know as falling
20into Tanganyika =
& its branch beside
the village Mosapasi
deep & crossed by a bridge
Kalambo 20 yards
25wide
& shallow but
it enlarges much E-


0088

12th November 1872
Along among low ranges
by tree covered hills = to a
village stockade = Refuse to
5remain & went on to
another by a rill 3 yds wide
course about S & by W


{figure}


10

13th Long lines of ridges of
sandstone hardened & Haematite
all clothed with trees - grass
sprung up - cloudy & showery
We came to Zombe's boma
15on Halochechi R flowing into
the Lake about 15 yds & thigh
deep
flowing fast over
rocky bottom = with many
aquatic plants = stockade
20on River = was surrounded
by Matoka's camp and a
constant fight maintained
at the point where the line of
stakes was weakened by the
25river running through = He
killed four & chitimbwa &
Kasonso coming raised
the siege = He compelled some
Malongwana to join him

0089
while Moamba refused to
join him = He plundered many
village of all food and has
been a scourge mornings
5march S & by W                 2


{figure} {figure} {figure}


14th S. Rest - Zombe the
chief is gone to Chitimbwa's
10Land
high & cold - showery


{figure}

Motoka plundered a native
Arab party of 6 bales of
cloth & one load of beads
15& said if you wish to get
the goods back go on with
me & fight Zombe - the

0090
seige lasted 3 months, then
Kasonso & Chitimba who
are of the same family with
Zombe came & a complete
5rout ensued - they left
many of their guns and
clothing - the Malongwana
had previously escaped
It is two months since the
10rout so we have been
prevented by kind Providence
from coming soon enough
to fall into the hands of
Motoka's immense horde
15He was impudent & extor-
-tionate before & much
more now that success
in plundering has emboldened
him


20

15th Novr 1872 = refused
a guide & march 3 hours over
undulating country cross Lowana R- then send
to find water but could not
25course SW but after failing
to find water turned due W,
found a path W & by S went
1 to water + 3 =                     4
2 Rhinoceros started off
30sent back for sick donkey &

0091
men not returned on the




16th we wait for them
this morning = they came
5Donkey died this morning
and we make a march
from Noon - the death
was evidently caused by
Tsetse bit{te} & bad usage
10by Mabruki Speke in
keeping by falsehood
48 hours without water
the rain helped to a fatal
end - a great loss to me


15{figure}                                 J

Afternoon followed range
on our left which came
round to W & ^ Lake lay on our
right went only W - 2
20Kasonso's people
called in passing


0092
H
{figure}
0093
[                ]

                                K
{figure}
0094

17th November 1872
Went on along bottom of high
ridge that flanks the Lake
on the West then turned
5up South East to a village
hung on the edge of a deep
chasm in which flows
the Aeezy = see an islet
beyond Lonzua = stop for
10provisions at nearly         2
NE.




18th Set off & were soon
overwhelmed in a pouring
15rain
= climbed up the red
slippery path which is
parallel & near to Mbette's
this is something like what
Kirk had instilled into the
20Pudduck's idea of the miseries
of African travel = a
man who took a child deserted
by her mother seeing she
was benumbed by cold &
25wet carried her = then as
I came up threw her into
the grass = ordered a man
to carry her & we gave

0095
her to one of the childless
women - she is about 4
years & not negro looking
Our march was about
5South West and 4
at Kampambas the
son of Kasonso who
is dead




10

Insama is         name of
Chama = of Rt ^ (Lo)Bumbo




19th Novr visited Kam-
pamba
still as agreable as
15we found him before when
he went with us to Liemba
Has a good sized village
men stringing beads
heavy rains now & then
20every day
= gave two
cloths as a present -




20th Stringing beads for
use - 21st Do - gave
25all except defaulters
two dotis each and a
maneh of beads


0096

22 Novr 1872 diminished
our loads considerably
and pleased the men
We have now 3½ loads
5calico & 120 beads several
go idle but to do any
odd work as helping
the sick or whatever they
are ordered - gave the
10two Nassickers who
lost the cow & calf only
one doti = It was worth
14 dotis - one man behind
ill of dysentry - sent for
15him twice = sent cloth &
beads to him as we must go




23 prepare to start
rains heavy & frequent
20At Kampamba's 6 PM
{figure}
{figure}


0097
{figure}

Kampamba's
at Muanwani
or Kalusi Rt


5

24th Leave Kampamba's
& cross meadow S E of
vil in which Rt Muanani
^ or Kalusi rises - It flows into the
10Kapondosi for the Lake
Went over a flat country
soil reddish & fertile -
covered with trees which
have all been cut about
154 or 5 ft from the ground
for cultivation or char-
-coal - Long lines of
hills of denudation
in distance all directed
20to Lake - Our course
about South West
and quick marching hours
Kitineka our guide
to Liemba with Kampembe
25is now our leader


0098

We came to Kasonso's
successors village
on the R
Molulwe
of 30 yards and
thigh deep going to Lofū
5chief gave a sheep = a
welcome present for I
was out of flesh some
days - Kampamba is
stingy as compared with
10his father
{figure}
24 Nov bank
left of Mololwe R




15{figure}

Lat 9 - 5 by Algenib
of R Mololwe at vil
of Kasonso's successor


0099

25th Novr 72 = one hour
SW to Rt Cazembe on
which the departed Ka-
-sonso
lived - 3 yards &
5very deep flowing slowly
to the Lofū - passed on
through much pollarded
forest = level but the stumps
send out leafy shoots
10that make the path very
tortuous - come to a
village = newly built
course generally SW-         3




15

26th off at daybreak
grass loaded with dew
and a heavy mist hanging
over all
- S & S-W-
passing two villages of
20people come out to
cultivate then stop at
Ndari's village on
the Rt Loela goes into
the Lofū - soil all 3 ½
25very fertile = manured
by burning branches of trees


0100

27th Novr 1872 Rt Loela
spend this as Sunday as
we should be in an
uninhabited tract tomorrow
5beyond the Lofū and the
headman here Ndari
cooked six messes for us
& begged us to remain for
more food which we buy
10gave us a handsome
present of flour & a fowl &
we returned a doti = very
heavy rain in afternoon
with strong gusts of high
15wind
which wet us all




28th A mile off we came to
the Lofū 60 feet & very deep
made a bridge & cut down
20both banks for donkey &
cattle to pass = hauled each
across by a rope = occupied
two hours then went on a
great plain with much water
25that never dries but forms
a bog with tufts of grass &
very deep between = misled
into this by our guide as
a path goes round it - we
30were 5 hours but count
real march only SW.         

0101
came to a village without
stockade & people allowed us
to camp there in = long
lines of low hills all about


5

A man came to the bridge
to ask toll fee - As it was but
one stick and unfit for
our use because rotten
I agreed if he would repair
10it for our large company -
but if I remade it & large
he ought to give me a goat
for the labour = he slunk
away & we laid large trees
15where their was only one
rotten pole




I         {figure}
0102

29th Novr 1872 crossed
the Looze in two branches
(Ilamba) & climbed up the
gentle ascent of Malembe
5low hills to the chief
village of Chiwe who at
another place I was led to
call Chibue by a Yao
tongue - Ilamba is the
10name of his vill - The
Lo-ozi's two branches were
waist deep - the first has
a natural bridge of a fig
tree growing across = goes
15into Lofū. Lofu rises
in Isunga country at a
mountain - Kwitette


Chambeze rises East of this
& at same place as Lonzua
20Chiwe presented a small
goat with crooked legs ^ & millet flour but
grumbled at the size of the
two fathom cloth I gave
I offered another fathom & a
25packet of needles - but he

0103
growled at this too and
sent it back. I returned his
goat & marched on this
30th November South W
5same forest country with
low tree covered ranges
of dark red sandstone &
quartz - crossed a Rt &
came to a large village in a
10stockade                 






1st December 1872
Closed in with thick clouds
but we went away among
15long low tree covered hills
some 500 feet high = all is
green except where new
purple leaves are still
purple = no ruins are
20passed ^ but ruins of anthills
which possess great durability
Came to a ruined stockade
on a rivulet that lately
overflowed all its banks
25A [       ]{Nutmeg} tree in full
bearing but fruit high
no people - SW- -         3
Rt Chua to Lovu Katanta

0104
Who planted the Nutmeg
tree on the Chua Katanta



I feel as if I must
have it some time"
519th August 1868 -
Private letter of Dr Kirk






In making clay pots the
good wives pick up fragments
10of very old well burned vessels
pound them small as grots
and mix a portion with
the clay to prevent too much
shrinking & cracking as
15ashes in brickmaking


{figure}
0105

Kasonso ---- SW
Chitapaousia SW
Chiwe on Luvu SW
3 on 4th Kafimbi
5Chama SW -                         SW
to Chambeze -



The Baurungu are very
like the Banyamwezi
10only more European
in their features -
Many of the young men
carry shields of skins
of game in imitation
15of the Batuta


Estekharah - consult
Koran & holy beads
      Kismut fate
      faleka bastinado


20

"You cannot imagine
how I should like to
get a run with you
again in the wilds


0106
Musa = boat
Sangoro ^ mango a 4 Am box
Chuma - Kurindo O
Sangoro = odd service
5Madwara = 2 dotis & B
Mokassa = 1 Do & B
Nyalkobo - 0 load
Ghamsin -     0 Do
Matenki Speke cones
10Magawa - 0 no load
Tangawazi     0 Do
[B] Tofike Bange = tar
Wadghames     0 no
Ghamees =         0 load

15

Hassani ill of
dysentery at vil on
Aeezy R. Sent for
him twice 20 Nov 72


0107
Churango -         Beads
Damungu         Beads
Furjilla -                 Bed
Furjilla =         cooking thing
5Richard =         ^ string Beads
Fuaka =         'Am' box powder
Hamadi =         Brass wire
Saburi -                 Brass
Maganga                 Brass
10Mabruke         2 Am- Box
BonAnamuri 3 Am. Box
Ramadan                 Beads
Moenze Talumi -         Box
Mustafa -         Box
15Moalima country Flour
Abed -         Tent
Safen med box & sextant
Mabembua Uny med box 0
Amoda = box sundries
20Shebane = tin box
Wadi Baraka         tool box

0108

    grinds flour {figure}

counts 130




5Furjillah - pots & pans
[B =] Athman + beads & + 1 doti
Gardner = beads ^ to carry
Nassick - 2 Matheo O
carriers boat
10Bon Ali - box pd
Halima =     cook 2 dotis
[+] 1 doti
Flour man Wadesale = flour
Michosi --- gun[ ]s 2 dotis B
15Tofiki samam - bag bread
Lesasse - candles
Salemeng Karindo
BoMoarika II bale
Ambarre Beads
20Hamees - Box writing.
Chanda -     Bale
Hassani Bale Beads
Hatibo Tin box
Bughet         Beads
25Tom -         Beads
Bilale =         Bundle
of tools

0109

The Kapessi hot fountain
flows into Lofū & it into
Tanganyika from Itawa




5

The Kamakaie hot
fountain flows into the
Chambeze




Kiturussi or Earth-
10quakes are frequent
coming from the East
and going West
Kampamba's
information & others
151867 & Novr 1872




Manua Sera dotis 6 + 1
Chaoperi --- 6
Susi --- 6

20{figure}


Ntaoeka 2 dotis & B


0110
6      4 - 2 coloured 2 Kamila
7 - 3 - 22 = (3K)



I {figure}
5II {figure}
III {figure}




{figure}
0111

Katepeluan eatable
plant - flower & bulb.
6 petals - inferior calyx
6 stamens attached a fleshy
5internal funel - pink petals
yellow stamena & crimson top
to funel - trilobed seed vessel
At Zombe's on Halocheche
& on all the Urungu heights


10

Male = Mileza
Zimberrao a moto mushroom 3




2 got 6 dotis 20th Novr 1872
156 - 4 dotis each = # pagazi


B1 Mtolo 2 Chongo B     1 Kalasha
3 B Mtalu 4 Chowperi     36 dotis
B5 Mabembe ganga         & one
B6 Mkizi = B7 Mufta         maneh
20B8 Sarboko Banyamwezi     beads





Athman 6 dotis & beads




1 bale = 4 Merikan 4 coloured
252 --         4 ----             3 coloured
3 --         4 coloured 5 Kamke
4             4 = 7 coloured
5             4 Slanley     2 coloured

0112

Decem Rainfall in 1872
        1st Rt Katanta = Noon NNE. .43




2d Rt Katanta SE. set in O =
5       6 - 10 AM =                                   .45
Do 4½ hours SW = SE not ?
measured




4th Rt Lampussi 5 - 6 AM O     ?.7


0113

Octr Rainfall 1872
31st South end Tanganyika =
- 11 - 12 AM E Ɵ                 .29




5

11th Novr Kalambo R -
4 PM thunder from N Land dust
It was reported that three
people were swept away
by sudden flood in Fipa


10

13th Zombe's 8 PM SE Ɵ         .13
14th Do        5 PM - SE Ɵ         .22




15 - Forest 8 PM & 5 AM Ɵ SE .12


15

18th Lake near 6 AM & Noon Ɵ     1 .22




19th Kampamba 10 AM & Noon SE Ɵ .83




20

21st Do 6 AM SE silent                 .7




23d Do 7 - 9 AM NE Ɵ set in     .31




26th 3 - 4 PM Loela Ɵ SE         .82


25

27 4 - 5 PM RtLoela Ɵ SE               1 .47




Do Do Loela 6 - 7 PM SE Ɵ =           1.17
with strong gusts wind -


30

28th vil. 8 - 10 PM SE Ɵ =                 1.24




29th Chiwe's 12 - 1 PM SE Ɵ   .11




35

30th Chipongola's in Mokatanta
dist 2{1} - 3 PM SW Ɵ                 .41
Total Rainfall Novr                 8.41
in Urungu
Nil showers through night


0114

It is like the difference
in effect of cold if one
is in activity or sitting
& falling asleep on a
5stage coach






Kapesi = islet
Mpunda range is the
beginning of Ulungu


10

Matuta killed all the
cultivators of the hills


Khangere chief of boma
at Mpunda bay






15

a shower makes
the birds burst into
song




I know ten hot
20fountains North of
the Orange River
the further North the
more hot and
numerous


0115

The sun makes the
soil so hot
that the
radiation is as if it
came from a furnace
5It burns the feet of
the people and knocks
them up - subcutaneous
inflammation is
frequent in the legs
10and makes hardy
men useless - We have
been compelled to slowness
very much against
my will = I too was
15ill & became better
only by marching on
foot - riding exposes
one to the bad influence
of the sun while by
20walking the perspiration
modifies beneficially
the excessive heat


0116

Tala Mt near 29th +
Mt Kasonko tomorrow


Mokangele limit of Fipa
Swifts in flocks were
5found on Lake when
we came to it and
small migration
swallows ever since


Though this is the very
10hottest time of the year

and all the plants
are burned off or
quite dried the flowers
persist in bursting
15out of the hot dry
surface - generally
without leaves - A
        with two yellow patches inside
purple ginger ^ is very
20lovely to behold &
it is alternated with
one of a bright Canary
yellow - many trees
too put on their blossoms


0117

Our drum is the greatest
object of curiosity we
have to the Banyamwezi




5

A very great deal of
cotton is cultivated all
along the shores of the
Tanganyika = It is the
Pernambucco kind
10with the seeds clinging
together but of good &
long fibre = the trees are
left standing all the
year to to enable them
15to become large grain &
ground nuts are cultivated
between them - the cotton
is manufactured into
common coarse clothe the
20general clothing of all




Lusise where they land on
crossing the Lonengwa ^ is above Molelo


Kapesa SW of this


25

Molelo of Tambale


0118

had been picked up by
him & so called geography
written again on the
palavers of Zanzibar
5Arabs


The question is not one
of detail = It is a question
involving political
& social considerations
10of singular & serious
importance - It is
nothing less than the
maintenance of BritishEuropean
influence to carry out
15the great work of civilization
which Providence
in its wisdom has
entrusted to our nation
If one Governt. officer
20delivers over a thousand
pounds to be delivered
to another & that be X
rendered with impunity


0119

Kirks report to the F.O.
that he had sent off
supplies & men to me
in fact that all my
5wants had been supplied
were only half truths
He had spoken to Ludha
and believing him
made the assertion
10that he (Kirk had sent)
a half truth as far as
I was concerned a lively
misreprepresentation
He unwittingly handed
15over the goods to a
coterie, clique or party
of slavers of which
Ludha was the chief X




20

Dr Kirks description
of Bangweolo was
only a sally of audacious
ignorance = as if the
mantle of Inner
25Africa
laid open X


0120

enough of my own
need and from not
remembering that I
could have got un-
5-limited leave while
the donor Sir Bartle
Frere
lived in power
I was too short sighted
for my own interests
10and now I see that
Dr Kirk had no sort
of compunction in
trying to supersede me
by Banian treachery
15the eagerness with which
he recommended that
I should retire & leave the
rest to other travellers = the
strong urgings to the S. & R
20Expedition to resign & go
home = and the culpable
negligence of placing all
my supplies in Banian
hands & there leaving
25them, tell a tale X


0121

Ukwdyne = Tamarinds




Note = Though we suffer
much from the heat by
5travelling at this season
we escape a vast number
of running & often muddy
rills also muddy paths
which would soon knock
10the donkey up - a milk &
water sky portends rain.


Tipo tipo reported on
14th Octr to be carrying it
with a high hand in
15Nsama's country Itawa
insisting that all the
ivory must be brought
as his tribute the
conqueror of Nsama


20

I had the offer of a X
consulate on the coast
of Africa
of much
higher grade than Kirk
25now holds but declined
it from not thinking


0122

may not be less than
the extreme greed of low
villainy but I trust
in the mercy of the
5Most High to help me to
finish my work X




# The spirit of Missions
is the spirit of our Master =
10The very genius of his religion -
a diffusive philanthropy
is Christianity itself - It
requires perpetual pro-
-pagation to attest its
15genuineness


0123

If Dr Kirk had never
got the offer of the leader-
-ship of the sources of the
Nile
he would not have
5had the additional strain
put on his moral nature
which the prospect of
superseding me after
he had secured his two
10prerequisites = a salary
& position to fall back
upon for which he at
first declined - His
public recommendation
15to me to retire & leave the
rest to others is ominous
The other plan to which
Govt looked, points to a
private offer of himself
20and his advice to the
S. & R Expedition to
dawdle & then the strong
urging to go home
                                XX


0124

they have learned the
Arab adage nothing for
nothing & are keen
slave traders


5

The "Gingerbread palm" of
Speke is the Hyphene
The Borassus has a
large seed very like the
10coco-de mer of the Sey-
-schelles islands
in being
double but it is very
small compared to it


15



Lord Granville said
in the House of Lords
that all my wants
had been supplied
20I suppose on the
strength of Kirk & X
Ludha's statements
which were only half-
-truths which were
25naturally taken to be whole truths


0125

22nd under a lofty tree
at Simba's = a kite the
common brown one had
2 pure white eggs in its
5nest - larger than a fowls
and very spherical.
22nd Septr 1872




Banyamwezi women are
10in general very coarse
not a beautiful woman
among them as is so
common among the
Batusi - squat thickset
15figures & features too = a race
of pagazi = on coming in
land from sea coast
the tradition says that
they cut the end of cone shell
20so as to make it a littl
of the half moon shape
{figure} this is their chief
                ornament
They are generally respect
25-ful in deportment
but not very generous
                                        


0126

Shereef was four times
longer in going to Ujiji
than he ought to have been
and Ludhas slaves
5lay at Bagamoio for
four months minus
3 days - but he wants
to bring the matter before
the consular court in
10the regular way - He
being the sole witness
and He alone knowing
to whom he entrusted
the matter of supplies
15and his friendships
for Ludha having been
misplaced the only course
open is that adopted
by the Hamburgh Consul
20when Baron von der
Decken
was plundered
demand that the X
Sultan make the noblis
refund monies unwisely
25tossed into other hands



0127

and even more so for the public
avowal of hostility to me shewed
a mental bias incompatible with
a just judgement in the
5case to which he invited me
and it was very ungraceful
to accuse me of "believing"
"Niggers" instead of him
because his own implicit
10faith in these identical half
blood natives and in their
master led him to entrust
them without precautions
with hundreds of pounds
15worth of goods twice &
a third time allow them
to lie at Bagamoio un-
cared for during four and
a half
months minus 3 days with the
20result that caused him
the "greatest grief & indignation"


He seems to have been
kept in the dark by the
consular agents as to the
25trade transactions of those
employed & not a
suspicion of foul play
troubled him when
                                        X


0128

[X] Dr Kirk wrote on the
18th May that he felt the
greatest grief & indignation
at my losses - But on May
5the 27th
or nine days
later he publicly declared
in presence of J.F Webb
the American Consul -
Mr Stanley and three other
10gentlemen that he declined
to do anything for me because
he should only get insulted
The occasion of his refusal
was to aid by sending his
15dragoman to hasten the
men secured by Mr Stanley
was the impending sailing
of the steamer for England
He added in a parenthesis
20officially I will but actually
refused & justified his
act by the quibble of the
refusal being non official
If I am not misinformed
25while holding the office
and drawing the pay of
consul his public acts
and declarations were as
official as the grief & X
30indignation



0129
{figure}


{figure}

5

{figure}


25 Aug         leave Unyanyembe
25 Septr
1025 Octr         Fipa


0130

find Dawson struck "for higher
wages" or because he had
been put on half pay Mr
New
struck because he
5had quarreled with Mr Henn
and Mr Henn resigned
and like Dawson left
$4000 worth of property
lying at Bagamoio Do
10the hindmost and probably
they would all have acted
in same part with ^ the Agincourt
but for fear of court
martials Free Naval
15Officers from the terrors
of courts martial, and
you deprive them of all sense
of responsibility as gentlemen
Some would turn tail
20on breaking the photo-
-graphs of wives or
sweethearts even - The
vivid hope that pro-
-motion is near seems
25their only {X} impelling
motive in exertion - there
seems in the average
naval officer no enthusiasm


0131

11th Sept 1872 Mwara's
the "Help & relief Expn" was
advised to wait till the
rains should cease = that
5is daw-dle in inactivity
for three months, and allow
all their good intentions
to ooze out at their finger
ends - there they lay on a
10most unhealthy island
till strongly urged to
shew the white feather
and they did it = resigned or
"struckwork" - I did not wait
15a day for the cessation of
the rains, but went off
in the middle of the Masika
Stanley did the same or
rather at the beginning of the
20heavy rains
- no pagazi
could he get but he went to
the mainland and soon
secured 140 pagazi and
30 freemen - He went
25right through with the
great masika pouring
down on him & then came
back through it all to


0132

trivial things = the
Grand Llama sitting
in immovable con-
templation of nothing
5is a good example of
what the human mind
would regard as majesty
but the gospels reveal
Jesus the manifestation
10of the blessed God over
all as minute in his
care of all - He exercises
a vigilance more
constant, complete &
15comprehensive every
hour & minute over
each of his people than
their utmost self love
could ever attain -
20His tender love is more
exquisite {√} than a
mothers heart can feel


0133

If we speak of strength
Lo He is strong - The
Almighty = The Over Power
the Mind of the Universe
5the heart thrills at the
idea of his greatness = all the
great among men have
been remarkable at once
for grasp and minuteness
10of their knowledge =


Great Astronomers
seem to know every iota
of the knowable - The
Great Duke when at the
15head of armies could
give all the particulars to
be observed in a cavalry
charge = and took care
to have food ready for
20all his troops = Men
think that greatness
consists in lofty
indifference {√} to all



0134


Podophyllum peltatum




Twarisiwa = a slave
5woman who followed us
and then on her master's
messenger appearing
threw herself at my feet
and grasped my legs -
10wrote to her master and
begged that she should
not be beaten = said that
I would enquire when
I returned = she was very
15good looking & of fine
form = a button on the
side of the nose for
beauty rather detracted
from her pleasant
20countenance but she
evidently thought not
so-


Sunbirds nest was
destroyed by some one
25unknown to me = maybe
one who looked up at
the wagtails singing & said "Kelela"



0135

Antagonism of opinions
Life's work = Gd Manners
geniality of disposition
Hard work S R Peel = lay
5mind alongside the native
Large allowances for those
reared in idolatry - Little
gardeners like little minies
Each hour & moment w
10vigilance to which utmost
selflove could never attain


Dir. have accumulated
experience - though changing
the stock is increased
15while Indepence of wild
asses' colts' have none -
Fact & opinion 2
Rhinoceroses story

20
                        X


0136

web from the inner
stiff paper web in
order to make a
nest between the
5two - the outter web
is a thin coating
of loose threads - the
inner is tough
paper impervious
10web like wasp's
hive but stronger
The hen brings fine
root fibres & places
them round a hole
151½ inch in diameter
then works herself
in between the two
webs and brings
cotton to line the
20inside formed by her
body -


0137

5th August contd the
Sun birds come to a
mass of spiders web
formed by a certain
5to pick out young spiders
Nectar of flowers
is but part of their
food - the insects in
or at the nectar could
10not be spep separated
and hence have been
made an essential
part of their diet




15

9th It now appears
that the Sun birds
when appearing to
pick out young
Spiders probably did
20so but ended in de-
taching the outer
coating of spiders
                                


0138

all his life long in the
apparition of the
livid hand & arm






5

a couple of rufous
brown headed & dirty
#speckled breasted
swallows appeared
today for the first
10time this season
and lighted on the
ground - This is the
kind that builds here
in houses and as
15far South as Shupanga
on Zambesi and
at Kuruman - 5th Aug -


Sun birds visit
a mass of spider's
20webb regularly today
5th August 1872


0139

"Hugh Miller's father
perished at sea when
he was but five years
of age - On the night of the
5father's death Hugh saw
at the open door within
less than a yard of his
breast, as plainly as
ever he saw anything,
10a dissevered hand &
arm stretched toward
him. Hand and arm
were apparently those of
a woman; they bore a
15livid and sodden appear
-ance, and directly ^ in front
him, where the body
ought to have been, there
was only blank, trans
20-parent space, through
which he could see the
dim forms of objects
- beyond" Hugh believed


0140

several games
They also shoot birds
with bows and teach
captured linnets to
5sing - They are expert
in making gins and
traps for small animals
& birds and in making
and using birdlime -
10They make play guns
of reed which go off
with a trigger ^ & spring with
a cloud of ashes, for
smoke - sometimes
15they make double
barreled guns of clay
& have cotton fluff as
smoke - Manyuema
boys shoot locusts
20with small toy
bows very cleverly -


0141

#Baganda count five
months as a year
Three months of rain -
two of dry weather and
5then rain again






In many parts one
is struck by the fewness
of games among the
10children - Life is a serious
business and amusement
is derived from imita-
ting the vocations of
their parents - Hut
15building - making
little gardens - bows
arrows shields & spears
Elsewhere boys are
very ingenious little
20fellows and have


0142

He was animated by
love of justice and he
has furnished an
example to be loved as
5well as to be admired
of all the qualities which
combine to make the
English Empire possible
and useful       "Times"


0143

Sir James Outram's
career was a brilliant
illustration of ordinary
English work and English
5character in India -
this, he himself delighted
to insist - but in the
discharge of ordinary
duty he never forgot
10the spirit of chivalry -
Most Indian commanders
have been men of modest
origin, single aims
and simple expectations
15A great task is laid
on them and they fulfil
it to the uttermost revealing
under pressure of
circumstances, qualities
20which are an honour
to our race & our country -


0144

concealing it on his
person because he
knew that on its
production his wages
5depended - Every one ther
else{eafter}
sent to Lewale
disappeared - and
one put in an Arab
packet was extracted
10while the packet went
to its destination - the
Arabs outside the Ring
were not only obliging
but generous with
15their goods though
their presents were
made at the expense
of their trade - I took
care to refund all I
20got but still they
were the Antipodes to
the members of the Ring


0145

and no evidence was
to go to the coast - From
that day to this every
letter sent here has been
5destroyed - The Arabs
outside the Ring had no
objection to convey
letters - Thus a letter
of July 1868
from near
10Bangweolo was safely
delivered though the
three headmen of the
Arab party were slain
by a tribe in the way -
15The slaves took it on &
other notes were taken
on by Syde bin Ali &
Ghamees Woodin
Tagh
- and Musa the
20buffalo driver took
his letter on by


0146

and the whole region
from Unyanyembe
to Ujiji & beyond was
occupied by his
5agents - It was not
easy to find an Arab
who was not a
Banian agent any
where - the first notice
10I had of the existence of
this ring was when a
weakling Thani bin
Suellim
refused to
send on my letters as
15he said "because he
did not know what
words they contained"
I soon learned that
the Lewale or governor
20had by his slave
plundered my goods


0147

The Zanzibar slave
trading ring is com-
-posed chiefly of our
fellow subjects the
5Indian Banians and
a comparatively few
low Arabs - The
Banian money is the
mainspring of it all -
10They have managed to
get a creature of their
own Syde bin Salem
made "Lewale" The only
semblance of Arab
15authority in the whole
interior of East
Africa
- Ludha was
the chief slaver - the
chief money lender
20to Arabs & Banians


0148

has to stoop to the task
even in his old age but
he may like it as a
way of doing good
5and one like him
will get the best of
good fare = some
ministers relish it
as holiday work
10and are glad of the
annual t[ ]ur it
gives to those whose
salaries do not allow
ought but plain fare
15and constant work
at home


0149

The Mendicant Friar
as introduced by the
saintly Neer do weel
St Francis de Assisi
5was simply a sturdy
beggar, and his place
is nowadays taken
up by the Begging
Parson - who with all
10the approved appliances
of modern times
follows much the
same occupation
The London Missionary
15Society tried to enlist
me as one of the begging
fraternity & offered to
"send a man with me
throughout the country"
20but I rebelled - & fear
most Mr Moffat



0150
Shuale = January
Ekaade = February
Hafi = March
Meharram April
5Safur = May
Rabie auale June
Rabie Aghere = July
Yamadeauale ^ August
Yamadeugiere Sept
10Radyab = October
Shabane = Novr
Ramadan = Dec

m The Arabs count days
= 6 m of 29 days & 6 m of 30 days


0151
{figure}
0152

354 days
instead of 365 - throwing
                     eleven days away


[                ]

5{figure}
0153