II.
Rough notes which
are the basis of the
entries in the 'Last
Journals' There is
5lillte verbal similarity
& there is a good deal
in the Journal that is
not here. Dates too
are, wiltin limits,
10somewhat different &
there are omissions but
not of any great
importance. These have
been pencilled where
15noticed.
4th April 1866. At
Kindany - about to
start across to the
village called Pemba
5& there arrange the
burdens before
starting - a buffaloe
gored a donekey &
his bowels being
10out - shot him &
cut of points of
the buffaloe's horns
on the principle of
locking stable door
15after steed is stolen
camels sank up to
their bodies in level
level bare crusted spots
The above are
mentioned as stages
above Nyamatolole
or Mtawatawa
10rapids where we
turned on Rovuma
The sirkar was
profuse in professing
but did not do
15anything - He
0006
got frightened when
we set our gaurd
& collected all his
men at night with
5matches lighted - we
explained & left our
boat & boats cargo
with him -
The sardines Tea & small
cask pork to be sent
to Zanzibar = the beads
& ammunition kept
5th got luggage in
order and on the
7{6}th made a short
march to a village
5at South end of the
Lakelet -
7th started at 5 AM
& got camels, buffaloes
& donkies loaded -
10a couple miles
off we came to a
village the headmen
of which pressed us
to stop but being
15informed that the
next village could
be reached in [ ]{two}
hours we went on
0008
a pretty straight wend
in a valley from
which rose well
wooded low heights
5of some 200 or 300
feet - The path was
in dense grass over
which the camels
alone could see - Trees
10plentiful & of good
size - We went on
6 instead of two
hours & had to cut
down overhanging
15branches of Bamboo
which though offering
no obstruction &
rather an agreable
shade to boot pass [ ]
0009
could not be passed
by our tall animals
We got the last of
men in to a village
5called (Nyangedi)
where we spent
Sunday 8th. all
around would in
India be called
10Dense jungle - wild
Dogs and antelopes
abound & here on
the evening of the
7th April 1866
15buffaloes & camels
made acquaintance
ship with Tsetse
names of carriers hired
at Nyañgedi on Sunday
(8th) station (to ease the
20cattle), at 2 yards to Nuri
a day & a half distant
9th ^ April the country rather
curious in being
without stones on
25surface - deep rich
soil - covered with
0011
dense vegetation and
a good deal of it
Bamboo which
entails considerable
5use of axes by us
the paths are good
for country purposes
being cleared of
all obstructions
10for foot passengers
but the height of
the camels makes
us clear higher up
than the people need
15our path today &
part of yesterday
lay along a valley
0012
with slopes on each
side of 100 or 150
feet quite jungles
From Nyangedi on
5wards the people
are all Makonde
and seem great
cultivators for
export by the Arabs
10of Kindany - the
names of people
shew much inter
course with Arabs
large gardens of
15Mapira or dura
and Indian corn
& cassava are
0013
seen on the slopes -
The people much
more taken up
with the camels
5& buffaloes than
with me - Ali
a good looking
coast Arab guides
us to Ndonde
10for 20 dollars. He
has a friend by way
of dealing with the
people who all
speak Swaheli -
My own people
not well broken
in yet often skulk
10th April 1866
After almost 3 hours
actual travel we
arrived at Nuri
5a few huts among
extensive gardens
a thick crop of trees
springs up when
a garden is deserted
10and the same sort
but grown must
be cut down before
a garden can be
made - the Makonde
15have no paramount
chief - all are very
independent within
0015
bearing - foreheads
narrow & low but
compact - heads
small - alae nasi
5broad - hips ordinarily
thick - legs ^ & body well formed
hands & feet small - colour
dark & light brown
At Nuri on 10th April
101866
Ishmael fever & vomiting
R cal & qu{ar}omatic p. stopp[ ]
vomiting - Purg. Jal & cal
11 got cal. & quinine tongue fu[ ]r Pandich Rum much 10th
5got pill cal. & Res. Jal.
11 better - quinine Sakiska - fever &
purging - quinine &
morphia
G{J}ainach Gun much
10got cul & quinine
feels better Recovered - Rep. (much better
Ramnuch Lucknuch{k}
got fever at 6 P.M
cal & quinine - purges & vomits
15Quinine 12th Nahunoa - Johanna man
cal. & quinine - purges - Rx
cal & quinine Musa cough w ^ better fever
Richard Isenberg - cal &
quinine - still headache
20better but weak O --- headache had
cal & Jalap
Shah Malim = headache &
fever pil cal. & jal. Recovered
11th April, at Tandahal{r}a.
We came only about 4
miles - eleven of the
men had fever for which
5I gave medicine last
night & ^ today and all are better
though not quite well -
course along what seems
to be ancient river beds
10but we are still ascending
as seen where water flows
They paths are ^ in wady's in a
rich fertile country - a
good deal of sand in
15soil but very heavy
crops of maize - dura
& cassava are grown
The bamboo's are cleared
off & burned as manure
20Iron is scarce for many
appear with sharpened
sticks for spears - but
0020
in some spots where an
ooze issues from the
ground. Its red with
oxide of iron - & no
5springs have yet been
seen - people trust to
wells - not so much
cutting to clear the paths
today - grass about
10knee high. The intense
eagerness with which
the people listen to the
accordion is very
interesting - No demands
15have been made as yet
but each of the head men
with whom we spent
the night gave a present
of fowls & maize &
20watermelons which I
returned with a fathom
of calico & pleased them
The Makonde dialect is
quite different from the
Swaheli. I hire men to
c{c}arry at the rate of 2 cubits
5a day - This is not high
seeing we are so near the
coast & the carriers assist
in cutting the path clear
All have been quite civil as
10yet
12th April 1866 on
starting this morning
we found the bush so
15dense that as the people
thought there "was no
cutting of it." We cut
half a mile & when going
forward to see the termi
20-nation I found that
the thicket stretched
some th[ ] miles
The trees are not large
many might be called
s{m}ere poles with scrub-
but the crop is densely
5planted every where
save where bamboos
have starved other
ligneous plants out
Then they are intertwined
10with climbing plants
like a ship's ropes in
thickness - One species
is a flattened ribbon
of about 2 inches thick
15by ¼ to ½ an inch thick
along the middle of its
flattened sides every
few inches rises a
a brush ^ tuft of sharp
20thorns
{figure} It turns
on itself
at sharpp
angles and hangs
5from tree to tree and its
tangled limbs straggle
out at{on} every side like
so many tape worms -
another climber is small
10but very tough & not
to be broken with the
fingers - a third is
like a young tree but
has the straggling habit
15of its class and where
you cut through its
tough woody stem
of from one to two
inches in diameter
20you find that it
0024
has its length 20 or 40
yards still to be disposed
of - then a fourth climber
resembles a leaf of aloes
5twisted in as fantastic
an way as shavings
from the plane of a
carpenter - It is dark
{figure} green in colour and
10when the bark is
removed beautifully
striated inside - a
fifth is a thin string
with a succession
15of large knobs on it
each seems a
thorn - a sixth
is a cord covered
all over with hookd
20spines like our sweet
briar but woefully
0025
tough
Another {figure}
The woods are still - few
new birds appear - this
5is probably owing to the
want of running water
If you hear a bird in the
forest it makes you
wonder
When I found that it
would be a tedious
affair to cut a way
for myself & offered
2 cubits to any of
15Monyadade's men
who would act as
sappers - six jolly young
men were glad of the
job - (more offered-)
20and they made the
0026
path clear for camels
in a way that did
the heart good to see -
They use a tomahawk
5{figure} with great skill &
speed - climbers &
young trees melted like
a cloud before the
sun - a long vista of
10light soon appeared
where the vision before
was confined to 20
or 30 yards - they worked
with a will - a slope
15took us down to a
fley as the Cape folks
call a ˄ flat hollow with or
without water - here
there was water with
20tall grass hiding it
from the eye -
Resting here a little we
had another brisk spell
with our merry wood
-men - and then arrived
5at an old man's village
on the Southern slope
of the Rovuma - We
now got a glance of
the country - It is hilly
10forest all dark green
at present - & only one
or two sterculias had
changed their colour to
yellow & diversified
15the scene - grassy glades
were few & again the
grass was as tall as
when we first plunged
into it South of its
20harbour Kindany -
0028
The old man ˄ Monyinkō presented
a goat and I gave
him 2 fathoms of
calico - to the other
5headmen I gave one
fathom or 2 yards in
return for a basket
of ˄ maize & a couple fowls - they
demanded nothing
10I employed some of
the Makonde as carriers
at the rate - a large one
- of 2 cubits or 1 yard
of calico per day -
15for this we can have
as many as we
choose - the wood
cutters desired to be
employed another
20day in order to
have the 2 yards
0029
which make a dress
"Robo" - The tall ones
had exhausted their
strength by the spirits
5of yesterday - the
shorter worker briskly
still. Meat feeding
seems essential to
long continued ex-
10-ertion in all - The
chinese may be
exceptions to this -
Sepoys rice done
last night - say they
15came not to eat
but to die with me
and if they got
some maize - or
Joari they would
20be content to
0030
follow wherever I
may lead - It is said
that we can get plenty
of food in front
13th Saw rocks of grey
sandstone probably
of coal - & Rovuma
in distance - Reached
after a little cutting
10a village on a height
called Didi Chombokea - all
the hollows seem to
be escued - we had
11 cases of fever by
15sleeping in a low
lying place against
our will
Informed tonight that
Ndonde had been visited
20by the Mazitu and
0031
had lost everything five
months ago - we could
not get a word of this
at Zanzibar - Every one
5carefully avoided any
particulars - "I shall
give you a letter to my
friends" with this we
were got off - The
10Arabs are all very jealous
of our going into the
country
14 April 1866 found
about 2 miles of
15thicket to cut through
hired men and got
down to sleep by the
Rovuma opposite
some very red cliffs
15th Spent Sunday on
banks of Rovuma - some
of Ndonde's men passed
on their way down to
5a port near Rovuma's
mouth with dried
fish & rice in their canoe
they confirm report of
the Mazitu having swept
10over the country and thus
have left no food in it -
16th along Rovuma
for some 7 miles - the
sun is very sharp
15indeed - it scorches -
All Sepoys had fever except
Pando - cured them w
calomel & quinine -
when they recovered
20the Johanna men, and
Nassick boys took it -
they complain of headach
0033
tongue is clean usually or
rather having a white
washed out appearance
the calomel & quinine acts
5on bowels and tongue
then fouls - I sometimes
add resin of jalap to
clear out but it is the
quinine which cures
10the calomel seems to
increase the power of
the quinine.
17th came on yesterday
to a village on the slope
15down to Rovuma - An
old doctor with a foot
wanting gave me two
large bags of uncleaned rice
and his wife cleaned them
20for us - The Sepoys have
too much luggage - both
buffaloes & donkeys are
distressed by t[ ] miles to
0034
Bariwara - name of vil.
Fundindumbo of old
doctor headman.
Went on about 3 hours
5cutting again in the
thickets between the
Makonde gardens - We
are led off our line a
little I believe to come
10near a village of Ali's
A fine country to the eye
the rice which seems
much cultivated among
maize and sorghum
15is pining for want
of water - sleep on a
slope of a valley about
2 or 3 miles from
Rovuma - many
20of the people much
tattooed in wavy
0035
lines - The population
seems very considerable
though really little of the
country is cultivated -
5no cattle - only goats &
fowls -
18th April 1866 After
making a camels saddle
we came on in rather
10a zigzag course cutting
a clearance for the
camels in many parts
The guide Ali misled us
to one of his numerous
15houses and being
charged with this at the
beginning of the deviation
he stoutly denied it "that
was the road to Ndonde"
20and we were led the
right way - Today we
0036
had to return back to the
path and he took upon
himself the aggrieved
tone of one injured - This
5made our actual
distance again very
small probably not
more than 6 or 7 miles
though we started at
1010-15 & continued at
it till 5 PM --
through woods &
gardens - but water
is scarce - the stumps
15in the gardens are a
trouble
19th April 1866 - We
have been plagued by
being led up one of the
20big spurs that come
0037
out of the table land as
hills and then down
into the valley beyond
the slope is usually
5covered with a dense
jungle and involves
much cutting - To
avoid this up & down
work I objected to go
10down today preferring
to send for water - We
are on the plateau now
& tasted water of a
low temperature today
15for the first time since
we left Kindany -
Where radiation goes
on as on the plateau
it is usually deliciously
20cool - We made but a
0038
short march six miles
or so but all in the right
direction - Ali seems to
think that we must be
5led from one water to
another but now we
shall get on better -
People very rude
especially the women
10and many of the men
profusely tattooed -
teeth sharpened to points
they say for beauty
Found Tsetse biting
15buffaloes again
20th April 1866 - Two
camels were allowed
to trespass on a man's
tobacco patch & spoiled
20it - We had to pay one
yard of calico for it
0039
then came on down to
level of Rovuma & cut
or rather widened the
path all the way - In
5actual distance we did
not do two miles - The
camels very tired - on
ascending the opposite height
I decided to remain as
10the air is pleasanter
than on the lower levels
we are close to the River -
the great sand banks are
in many cases bare -
15The Makonde very eager
to engage in cutting a
way for us at one yard
a day - and they work
hard & well - whittling
20down the climbers w
great dexterity - they are
accustomed to clear
their garden of them
0040
they do it merrily too
for every now & then
one bursts forth with
a cheerful shout - We
5are quite lost in the
gigantic grasses of the
lower lands - so that
to take angles & directions
is out of the question
10Elephants & hippopotami
and pigs are the chief
game & we see none
Every headman
[ ]rofesses to be a
15doctor - Komuaha to slep
21st April 1866 We
left Komuaha and
with Wrongwe hill on our
left we went on cutting
20all the way to valley
Mehambwe to spend
0041
Sunday 22 - all glad it
has come -
Met some men from
Ndonde's who say that
5the Mazite are still in
the country eating the
cassava of the people -
they can easily cross the
Rovuma high up as it
10is a mere mountain
torrent there - The features
of these men are rounded
like the Batoka - faces
deeply tattooed - an[ ]
15all front
part of bodies
{figure}
0042
when saluting they catch
each others hands &
say Ai! Ai! I am
glad that no misunderstanding
5has yet arisen between
them and us -
In coming up the hill
Wrongwe a camel fell
and rolled over - We
10took off his burden &
turned him round &
lifted him - He was much
hurt
The main rock of this
15part of the country from
the point where we
joined the Rovuma to
this is coarse grey
sandstone capped
20with a ferruginous
sandstone conglomer
-ate - no fossils seen
22d April 1866 - In
Mehambwe valley -
A one eyed ill looking old
fellow came about us
5He was the instigator of
the attack on us in our
former visit and to
him I gave cloth to
prevent a collision
1023d said nothing to him -
Juvi = leopard - They{e}
Makonde take off skin
and burn body in fire
We passed one this
15morning which had
been so treated - the
reason given is that
it eats men therefore
its flesh cannot be
20eaten - this shews
0044
the opposite of an inclina-
tion to cannibalism -
came along the Northern
highlands near the base
5we attempted to go on
top to camels could
not ascend a steep
space near summit -
Found fossil trees
10on surface - Leaves
beginning to shew
yellow tints of autumn
Buffaloes bitten by
Tsetse again - they
15shew no signs of
being affected like
oxen & have lost
flesh only as one
might expect from
20hard work - The
0045
camels are more
affected but whether
by Tsetse or labour
I cannot say - One
5mule seems dull &
out of spirits - I sus
-pect the work as the
cause
a carrier stole the
10shirt & powder of a
Johanna man - Ali
went off by night
caught him - made
him pay handsome
15ly for the theft and
came back early this
morning -
24th It was a pity that
anyone was hit when
20the Makonde fired on us
0046
as the friends will not
look on us as innocent
though the attack was
wholly unprovoked by
5us and we fired strictly
in self defence.
The low lands generally
are uncultivated - This
is probably from their
10unhealthiness - The
meadow land now
stretching along the
North bank about
2 miles wide is without
15an inhabitant - We
see but few marks of
game either - pigs are
the chief animals -
very few birds about
20and only near water
We did not make 5
miles in a straight
line today - 3 sepoys
fell out sick - They
5are speedily cured by
a dose of Calomel &
quinine but again
relapse - then the
Johanna men have
10a turn of it and last
of all the Nassick
boys - but we are
favoured in losing
none yet -
I have altered all
the saddles & made
them so that they
dont hurt the camels
0048
nearly so much as
at first - {figure} We
have showers tonight
all are under cover in
5sheds or screens --
a good deal of
Rice is cultivated
among the maize
and dura - This
10shews a moist
climate even on
the hills for there
the gardens are
situated -
a kind of potato
first seen by me
at Nambwe & all
called Mamt{and}are
25 April 1866 Had
a little rain last
night. seven sepoys
ill of a fever - day
5gloomy. We are in a
forest and all is
damp
a serpent bit "Jack"
one of the dogs above the
10left eye - Chuma alone
saw it - The upper eyelid
swell up very quickly
but next day all
inflammation was gone
15The quantity of poison
injected must have
been very small --
came along the side of
the valley as our
20course has been in dense
tall grass with ups & down
0050
to which the camels object
some stand doggedly refusing
to step into a gulley of
less than two feet depth
5and easy slope - and
their pace is distressingly
slow. arrived at a
valley near the end of
the plateau as seen from
10Rovuma called Narri
and there resolve to
wait on the .
26th April 1866 and
purchase food as there
15is much hunger in front
in consequence of the
prolonged raid of the
so called Mazite - the
people all civil and
20eager traders with their
meal, fowls, eggs, honey
women very naked
Took obsns ʘ Time & alt
Mer. Lat. 10° 54' 48" S
purchase plenty of
meal - one camel
5lamed by beating with
a stick - a sepoy the
defaulter (Pando) -
Reproved him and
have to leave the
10camel with the
headman at Narri
28thApril vil. ilaha
We passed end of hills
10on North apparently
they still continue on
South - made a good
march through field
of sorghum all of it
15very high 12 to 13
feet - many people
running to see the
camels & buffaloes
0053
which are the great
attraction - rains fall
every few hours &
delay us as we
5cannot put our
things up wet without
mildewing them
People all listen to
the accordion with
10intense delight. They
would afford a study
to a painter when in
the attitudes of intense
eagerness they assume
country scattered
over with petrified
wood in fragments
& blocks - with quartz,
gravel & shimpall
0054
a gap in the Southern
table land gives passage
to a river arising in
a lakelet which may
5be three miles across
as a man cannot be
distinguished at the
distance by the keen
eyes of the natives - It
10is called Nangadi &
abounds in large fish
The people are Mabiha
a little further up is
Konayumba also
15famous for fish
Kimbembe is the chief
& further still on same
side are Matambwe
who speak a different
20dialect but under-
standable by Makon[ ]
0055
Nachuhu vil. at
which we arrived to
spend Sunday 29th is
nearly opposite - S.
5Ali draws a very
dark picture of the
Makonde - They know
nothing of God - of
future state or of
10any religion - no
Arab has ever tried
to convert them - only
when slaves are taken
to the coast they are
15circumcised so as
to be clean & some
of them pray - He
says they know
no Muavi or ordeal
0056
but blame witches
for disease & death --
remove a village if a
death occurs in it -
5An awe has come
over them all at
our approach and
those who are notorious
for fines & mulcts
10have said nothing
though our beasts
have broken a good
deal of the cornstalks
they are said to fear
15the English - They
sell each other to the
Arabs - answer to
my prayers
29th April 1866. at
Nachuchu. After
worship tried to say
a few words to the
5Makonde by the
Nassick boys all
pretended that they
could not speak
their tongue though
10we are in their
own country (Ndonde)
where they were born
and they converse
on ordinary topics
29th the reverence
with which the
5Makonde view us
I ascribe to that
influence which
I besought The
almighty to grant
10I regret that I
cannot speak
to the heathen that
good of his name
I feel they deserve
Went and saw a
specimen of the
gum copal tree -
It drops on the ground {figure}
5Leaves in pairs
glossy green with
the veins a little
raised on face
& back - The
10 bark light ash
colour - tree
large - small
branches
diverge from
15 same points
{figure}
0060
The gum is digged
for in vicinity of the
modern trees in
the belief that the
5ancestors of these
same dropped gum
unheeded when it
had no purchaser
In digging said one
10none may be found
on one day but
God (Mungu) may
give it the next
to this all Makonde
15asserted shewing
a belief to which
they were this morning
denied
The Makonde get the
gum in large quanities
This attracts traders who
remain in the country
5a long time & marry
but do not teach
their b{r}eligion - They
despise the Makonde
but many light
10coloured persons &
the hair of others
shew that intimate
relations have sub-
-sisted - Hernia Hu-
15-moralis abounds -
no reason for lip
ring but beauty &
fashion
30th April 1866 at
Kunyane to which we
made a very short
march - camels getting
5weaker & full of ulcers
possibly old dhow
bruizes now working
out. People here sent
word that they were
10cleaning rice for us
but when we came
we found it to be
false, as they sent
for some we waited
15till they pounded it
and will sleep here
We get the fish called
Pende on Zambesi
a mullet?
0063
The crops of sorghum are
very good but not
yet being ripe the people
complain of hunger-
5sepoys better Nassick
boys now take their {figure}
turn so 4 of them com-
-plain women are
very naked - men
10have mostly the
tattoo common here -
They have no goats &
only fowls of a small
sort - but no sheep
15or other domestic animal
pigeons appear in a
few villages - Bang or
Hemp is not commonly
smoked - in this they
20are better than the
Manjaja - no
0064
iron is found in this
part consequently it is
scarce & dear - many
men have been seen
5with wooden spears
Honey is very cheap
a pot with four fowls
were given for 2 yards
of calico - The pot was
10about a gallon - No
game appear in these
parts if we accept
wild hogs & guinea fowl
The buffaloes were bitten
15by the Tsetse badly
yesterday evening
I caught many on
them - Those on the
camels were full of
20blood - Rain has
fallen since first of Mar
1st May 1866 we
came on through a rich
15country again - but
most of it was free
of wood requiring
cutting by us - It is
very beautiful to look
20out upon when one
gets a glimpse - The
0066
country seems clothed
with great masses
of umbrageous foliage
mostly of a dark green
5A great many of the
individual trees have
leaves glossy like
laurels - We passed
a gigantic specimen
10of the Kumbe or gum
copal yielding tree -
and many Malole fruits
were on the ground -
came to Ntande village
15a strong stockade was
round it for fear of
the Mabiha who come
& steal people going for
water - This is for the
20Iboe market -
Before we came to N-
-tande we passed the
ruins of two villages
deserted as the custom
5is when death occurs
The owners were the
attacking party in our
case when we ascended
the Rovuma in boats
10In the return fire by
the 2d boat one ball
struck the father on
the chin, and another
went through his son's
15head - It may have been
best that the English
were known as people
who can hit when
unjustly attacked - never
20was a murderous assa
-ult more unprovoked [ ]{than} this
0068
all look on the English
with awe, and no
impudence is shewn
by those Makonde
5who were notorious
for fines - on the most
frivolous pretexts -
Ali's brother fought
them till 2 of his men
10and five Makonde fell
They then agreed to
molest him no further.
In afternoon we had
two smart showers
15We have had no
continuous rain as
yet - In travelling I
dont measure the
amount - It is not
20worth while as I
shall not be long
0069
in the low coast lands
We sleep in a valley
near the village of
Ntande - another
5species of fly exactly
like the housefly only
with a sharp proboscis
annoys the cattle more
than the Tsetse - They
10fill themselves with
blood too - Tsetse bit
the buffaloes last night
evening again.
[ ] Wikatani attempted
15to take once for me from
Havildar without
leave. The Havildar
seized him by the
throat and Wikatani
20struck him. This
0070
was a bad example
[ and had the Havildar
]
not laid hands on
Wikatani I would have
5punished Wikatani
severly - As it is the
Havildar sulks, and
feels his dignity in-
-jured in which I sym-
10pathize with him but
a public whipping to
Wikatani would
possibly break his spirit
and it would be
15commented on by
the Makonde as terrible
& severe beyond pre-
-cedent
2d May 1866 This
20morning all our
0071
things being wet we have
to wait an hour or two
to dry them. - The high
mountain {figure}
5noted in our first trip
up is called Liparu
and a stream comes
down from it to the
Rovuma forming
10a little lagoon - We
came to a Makoa vil
and it being surrounded
with corn fields likely
to be damaged by the
15animals we went on
& camped on the spur
of the range beyond it
in a nice clear spot
when we stopped a
0072
while in a village on the
way the poodle dog
Chitane whose fierce
looks are mainly a way
5to one not knowing
at which end his head is
rushed after the village
curs in the most frantic
manner and apparently
10in the belief that it was
his prowess they
fled from - They made
for the charpois on which
their masters sat &
15went Chitane was kept
off their chase set up
a hideous yelping
bark - The head woman
is said to be a doctor
20A woman came for
ward & offered me
0073
some meal in a gift
even when I was on the
move off - a nice
motherly looking person
5We passed a Makoa
village and ascended the
spur of the part of the
range near to avoid
damage to peoples corn
10The Makoa have the
half moon on forehead
and many of them have
the forehead & cheeks
deeply tattooed & the skin
15raised a very much
at the cuts - {figure} It gives
rather a hideous look
or perhaps fierceness
such as was put on
20by our ancestors
0074
when having their
portraits taken -
3d May. 1866. A
man with defective
5arm bones came &
tried to make a case
against us by saying
that some of my
men had cut down
10his corn with swords
sent Ali & Abraham
to see - they found it
to consist of 2 stalks
broken off by the
15mule's burdens - the
Nassick boys are
careless & without
forethought We
paid nothing the
20damage being too small
0075
came on about 2
miles to a village by
a stream coming
down from the
5mountains for such
the range may now
be called - It is
named Nkonga
It is embowered in
10groves of succulent
trees the spreading
roots by which form
the solo{i}d portion of
the banks - It is only
15a few yards wide
at parts only one &
it gurgles over the
roots in perpetual
shade - had to make
20bridges for camels
4th May 1866 The
buffaloes were bitten
15by Tsetse on the 2d
and again today
the cow's blood
seems to have under
gone a change for
20the bites or stings of
0077
The ordinary gadfly or
large mangrove fly
bleed freely and the
blood running down
5the skin is arterial
in colour. Today
her right eye is all
inflamed and she is
dull & listless - a
10large swelling appears
on the lumbar portion
of the pelvis ^ calf unaffected - the grey
one has been sick
but seems better - the
15black male has never
been the worse of his
bites - It is not seen
on the camels that
they feel the fly though
20they get weaker which
may be from hard work
0078
no symptoms of Tsetse
in mules or donkeys
Passed a vil. and
came on to Nyamba
5Another on a spur
all rolled gravel of
reddish quartz - At
the end N. many
Makoa live. Their
10vil. a very large one
is called Nyuthe
The head woman of
our village is a
great doctor and
15rain making is
one of her accom
plishments - She
gave us a good
present of a small
20green round pea
0079
common in India =
^ = Mung and a fowl - she is
profusely ornamented
all over and over
5hips & buttocks so is
not ashamed to
shew these parts -
(they have doves and
Muscovy ducks) she
10is tall - well formed -
and with finely shaped
legs, hands & feet --
Sesamum - Tobacco -
beans - ground nuts -
15a good deal of salt is made
5 May 1866 a tame
Khangatore or
0080
tufted guinea fowl here
As we marched we
came to sandstone
hardened by fire &
5then granitic masses
from which the sand
-stone had been left
so as to leave a
dip to the East -
10With the geological
structure the trees
& vegetation changes
acacias - and
thorny mimosas
15ebony and the
vegetation is more
sparse allowing
us now to go
along without
20cutting
We are now opposite S.
a hill named Simba -
Livu from its shape
Mabiha are around it
5in great numbers &
they make raids over
to the Makonde side
for slaves - The men
wear the lip ring as
10well as the women
and Rovuma being very
shoal at certain times
it is easily forded -
[Tsetse again all day
]
15the blood of the bitten
seems all of the colour
of arterial blood for
when stung the points
bleed bright scarlet
20the buffaloes seem
0082
ill - drowsy looking
& eyes bleared - one
eye of cow dimmed
6th May 1866 our
5course has been ex-
-cessively crooked
in fact from vil.
to vil. though these
have not been on
10a straight line - This
prolongs our march
& all the animals
feel it - [ ]{N}umbers of
people come to see
15us - seem intelligent
& respectful - no
drunkeness seen
This is not the beer time
At service a man
began to talk & when I
told him we were
"soma Mungu" praying
5to God ^ he understood it & was
silent 7 May 1866
7th Camel & buffalo died
this morning -
Tsetse again
On getting up this
morning I found one
camel dead and
the grey buffalo ex
5-pired soon afterwards
got carriers and in
coming on two
camels gave in
from weakness &
10had to be unloaded,
Sepoys reported to
sit down & eat letting
camels stand in the
hot sun - The whole
15country of Ndonde
we find dried up
0085
and no corn will be
op{b}tained this year
mules shew fatigue
We dont go so far but
5we dawdle - got up
at 4 A.M. but did
not get off till 8 -
We are now opposite
a mountain on S-
10side called Nabungala
looks like an elephant
lying on its belly
another camel
died on the way
15a very good one
8th May 1866
arrived at Iponde
opposite granitic hill sketched
in my notebook from
named Nakapuri - I
leave Havildar & men
at Iponde while I go
on to Machumora
5at Ngomano with the
baggage - the object is
to rest camels - buffaloes
& mules
Lat 11° 9 00
of Iponde 8th May
9th May 1866 I left the
animals in charge of the
Havildar and Nassick
boys at Iponde
5the camels are so
weak and so are the
mules & buffaloes
that this seems to
be a measure of
10necessity - left 24
yards of calico with
them and took on by
24 carriers all the goods
It was impossible to
15prevent the Nassick
boys from putting
their things on the
heavily laden beasts
As soon as my back
20was turned on they
went again & they
evidently thought this
0089
clever - told them
repeatedly that they
would kill the buffaloes
and mules but in
5vain - sneaking deception
seemed dear to them
one Baraka took
high ground and un
-less I let him put on
10a[ ] filled with
maiz[ ] on a mule
already lying down
with over weight "he
would do nothing"
15You may take your
gun & shoot me
I wont lead a mule
or do anything - I
applied a stick so
20briskly to his bottom
that he soon changed
his mind, but it
was continual vexation
0090
and I gave up annoying
myself by seein ing
matters - The buffalo
was killed by over
5work - and a mule
seems likely to follow
it from same cause
Today we came at
least eight miles
10in three hours &
tomorrow we shall
do more
at Moeda we had a
valley with large
15thorny Mimosae -
- rocks still granitic
or syenite - passed a
Euphorbraceous tree
with seed vessels as
20large as mandarin
oranges & three seeds
inside - collected some
0091
for Sir Bartle Frere - the
country is burned up
by one of these strange
droughts - rust which
5plagued us nearer the
coast ceases here -
The grass crisp & yellow
is burned off in places
Passed spot where
10Birkall, an Arab,
resisted payment of
chiefs demand for
leave to pass & after
two days parley killed
152 Makonde & woundded
chief mortally which
settled the matter -
no more demands
have been made
20since
Engaged on 10th
10th May 1866 came
10on about six miles
and then the carriers
having had no food
the day before could
not proceed furth[ ]{er}
15All is hunger in front
to Ndonde but
food is to be had on
the South Side among
the Matambwe
20The hunger is
caused by the
0093
inroad of the Mazitu
who devoured all
before them like a
flight of locusts -
5and partly by the
drought -
clouds have been
coming steadily from
the South West for
10many days - today
they come from East
with small showers
a good shower in
evening
chronometer 5158
stopped during the
night - It has been
stopping in the winding
up for some days
11th May 1866. A
quarrel between Ali
and Musa evoked
a great deal of abuse
5and this morning
Ali sulks & is off at
one of the villages -
we got a little rice
for the carriers but
10they had served them
three days & are off
We got others and
marched 3 ₑ⁄₄ hours
part of it up a
15sand stream the
Nyedi - maize &
beans will soon
supply the want
caused by Mazitu
20met a run away
She was caught by
Ali and he seemed
confident that
he would get a reward
and would not
15yield to my entreaty
to let her go - we
soon came to her
village and she had
to be given up -
20met a perfect figur
of a woman in the
sand stream
Kanañgone at -
Matanatawa a
pleasant looking
lady came forward
10while we rested in
her village as our
turning point &
put a bunch of
sweet reed at my
0099
feet. Saying "I met
you here, pointing to
the spot at the river,
before - Her face
5was profusely tattooed
and I remember her
coming and asking
us to wait while
she brought us some
10food - gave her a
looking glass and
she went & brought
me her only fowl -
and a dish of cuc-
15-cumber seeds and
said it was hunger
with them now
gave her a cloth
20& parted to come on
0100
four miles above
the cataracts - through
a dried up country
full of dwarfish
5thorn - acacias &
mimosae - carriers
very useless from
hunger
Matambwe country
abounds in elephants
and the tusks are very
large shewing a
5moist climate
The people very black
but beautiful accg
to Ali - have liprings
Plenty of gum copal
10also which the Ibo
people purchase
Pephela
millet a grass
15seed collected now
and made into
porridge - very
good -
The claims of the few
who were born to govern
the Makonde therefore
are not wholly bad in
5the mass though individually
before God desperately
wicked -
an attention to man's
happiness & comfort
10and intellectual advance
ment in this life is
essential for the promotion
of his religious life
This has been learned by
15slow & unwelcome
experience - We now
try to improve the condition
of those on whom society
presses severely as the
20indispensible pre-
liminary to improving
the condition of the sufferers
0103
which is not wholly
bad - with noble aspirations
for what is good - if light
were permitted to beam on
5their darkness & a place
of repentance were given to
the erring - wa{Ca}tholicism
attempted to bind men
as the Bible does to
10indi[ ]{vid}uals &{in} their
devotional moments -
that grew oppressive -
and in process of time
it was thrown off -
15no one now believes in
the doctrine of the worth
lessness of man in the
presence of God as
applicable to the
20worthlessness of the
mass of mankind
in compassion with
0104
Makonde as he (& we)
must appear to himself
in the presence of God
then there is no truth
5but the one truth that he
is desperately wicked -
Every heart capable of
comprehending the
nature of holiness will
10pass this sentence on
itself - The Bible thus
applies the doctrine of inborn
sin, not to man in society
but to the individual in the
15presence of his Maker -
Possibly the confounding
what is true of individuals
and to all individually
has been the great stumbling
20block to men of intellect for
in relation to other men
& the world they are
conscious of a nature
26 April 1866 Take these
Makonde in their relations
to each other and to the
place they occupy on
5the earth there is much
good in them - It was
their natural sense of
justice that permitted
Ali to go back - seize the
10thief in his own village
and fine him eight
cubits of calico for
a shirt & some cartridges
not worth half that
15amount - He was
accompanied by
two Makonde alone
and they spent most
of the night in pursuit
20unpaid. It is a
different matter if
we look to the individual
Fruit like small orange
but with large brown
seeds - eatable = dark
berries - Do milole - Do
Euphorbia {figure} fruit
with three seeds
Mandare = potato
De[ ]
5af[ ]
I he[ ]
has [ ]
Ma[ ]
10tree [ ]
bon[ ]
frui[ ]
pupls eaten by maggots
colour of fruit green
15with red on sides
II.