0001
for the isolation in which they live
The head of Moenekuss is said to be
preserved in a pot in his house
and all public # matters are gravely
0002
communicated to it as if his spirit
dwelt therein - His body was eaten
The flesh removed from the head
and eaten too - His fathers head is
5said to be kept also
0003
The foregoing refers to Bambarre
alone - In other districts graves shew
that sepulture is customary - Here no
grave appears - Some admit the
0004
existence of the practice here - others
deny it - In the Metamba country
and adjac[ ]{ent} to Lualaba - a quarrel with
a wife often ends in the husband killing
5her and eating her heart mixed up
0005
in a huge mess of goats flesh -
This has the charm character - fingers
are taken as charms in other parts
In Bambarre alone is the depraved
0006
taste the motive for cannibalism
0007
On 17th August 1870 Monamyembo
the chief who was punished by M Bogharib
lately came # bring two goats - One
he gave to Muhamad the other to
5Moenekus' son acknowledging
that he had killed his elder brother
0008
He had killed eleven persons over
in our absence
at Luamo - in addition to those
killed in villages on our SE when
5we were away - It transpired
that T{K}andahara brother of old
Moenekuss whose village is
0009
near this - killed 3 women & a child and
that a ^ trading man came over from Kasangangazi
and was murdered too for no reason but
to eat his body - Muhamad ordered old
5Tanda{h}ara to [ ]{bring} ten goats and take
0010
them over to Kasangangazi to pay
for the murdered [ ]{man} - When they
tell of each other's deeds they disclose
a horrid state of bloodthirsty callousness
0011
People over hill NNE of this killed a
person out hoeing - if a cultivator is alone
he is almost sure of being slain.
Some said that people in the vicinity
5or hyaenas stole the buried dead, but
Posho's wife died and in Wanyamesi
0012
fashion was thrown out of camp un
buried - Muhamad threatened an attack if
Manyema did not cease exhuming the
dead - it was effectual - neither men nor
5hyaenas touched her though exposed now
for seven days 24th August 1870
0013
When the rains ceased in June
I wished to go Northwards along the
Lualaba & buy a canoe but my
attendants professed fear of the water
5I then promised not to buy a canoe
0014
but this elicited that they were determined
not to go at all - the head Arabs told
me that they were in the habit of going
to the women whose husbands were
5away and getting food and spending
the night with them - They then
0015
refused rations - not understanding
why I enquired the reason = they replied
that the beads were not enough - the
Arabs said "they are about to desert" &
5'that is a slave custom -
0016
I spo[ ]ke long to them advising them
earnestly not to desert & lose all their
arrears of pay - - But on going out
from me one called out "Who
5will he get to carry his
0017
things" - then a loud Ha ha ha to make
me hear it. On telling them that Seyed
Majid had punished those who deserted
Speke & the consul would certainly be
5angry to hear that I had been thrown
away by them in the middle of the cannibal
0018
country where I could get no carriers
as the Manyema will not go to the next
village - Simon said "give me a bit
of paper to tell that I am a very bad
5boy" - This was supposed to be witty
& he added let Seyed Majid chain
0019
me - beat me - shoot me' I want to go to Lualaba
Abram said the others intended to throw down my
bundles & run away in the forest - "He was tired
with seven years work" These two are the bring [ ]
5Katomba at whose voice they trembled spel[ ]
0020
in [ ]ly & they said they would go but seeing
[ ]t he did nothing again refused - The knowledge
that I wont punish as the Arabs do is the
[ ]eason on their desertion - the murders
5they committed at Kabuire dest[ ]yed what
0021
little of moral nature they possessed - I would
not have brought them from Ujiji as the deterioration
was then visible in stealing from me to pay their
prostitutes but Thani behaved so strangely to
5my packet of letters, refusing it - than send
0022
it back "because he did not know the contents"
I feared its destruction and then I should be
waiting for other men from Zanzibar in vain
I therefore strained my utmost to finish up
5up my work with what I had
0023
But now these worthless slaves had me
at their mercy & wished to be masters - to take
what beads they chose and go or remain just
as it suited their fancy - they thought that
0024
I did not know where they got food and when
declaring their rations of beads too small they
bought grass cloth clothing, knives spears
and dainties - With three Susi - Chuma
0025
and Gardner I set off - intending to join M-
Bogharib or Josuf on Lualaba - We went
with three deputies from the head Arabs &
their slaves - but they hated me & tried to get
0026
away from me - I however kept up and
on the fourth day passed through nine villages
destroyed by the worthies who did not wish
me to see more of their work - Then
0027
met with Mohamad Bogharib & Josuph coming
back from Kasongo's - I slept at a village
a little way from them & was met in morning
with the news that a man of the party which
0028
eschewed any company had been stabbed by
night in revenge for the slaughter of relatives
& burning of nine villages - Mohamad
refused to engage in a wholesale manner
0029
to revenge the dead one and seeing that I had no
friend & only three people I turned back - the
mud was grievous & as I waded it all
my feet were torn to pieces and irritable
0030
eating ulcers begun which have dis-
abled me ever since - I now spoke with my
friend Muhamad and he offered to go with
me to see Lualaba from Luamo - but
0031
I explained that merely to see & measure
its depth would not do - I must see whither
it went - This would require a number of his
people in lieu of my deserters & to take
0032
them away from his ivory trade which
at present is like gold digging - To{^} I must make
amends & I offered him two thousands
Rupees & a gun worth seven hundred
0033
Rs. 2700 in all on £270. He agreed & should
he enable me to finish up my work in one
trip down Lualaba & round to Lualaba West
it would be a great favour - The severe
0034
Pneumonia in Marungu - the choleraic
complaint in Manyema & now irritable
ulcers warn me to retire while life lasts -
Muhamads people went North & East & West
0035
from Kasongo's - 16 Marches North = - 10 Do
West - and 4 Do E. & SE. - The average march
was 6½ hours say 12' about 200' North & W
Lat. of Kasongo say 4° South - they may
0036
have reached 1°-2°S. They were now in the
Balegga country & turned - It was all
dense forest - never saw ^ the sun except when
at a village & then the villages were [ ]
0037
apart People very fond of sheep which
they call Ngombe or ox - tusks never used -
They went off to where an elephant had formerly
been killed & brought the tusks rotted and eaten
0038
or gnawed by "Dezi" a Rodent probably the
aulo candatus swindermanus - Three ^ large rivers
were crossed breast & chin deep - In one
they were five hours and a man in a
0039
small canoe went ahead sounding for water
capable of being waded - much water & mud
in the forest = # This report makes me thankful
I did not go for I should have seen nothing -
5and been worn out by fatigue & mud
0040
The river of the Metunda had black water
and 2 hours to cross it - breast deep
R Mohungu = breast deep -
R of Mbite also large
5 [#
crossed about
40 smaller rivers]
0041
All along Lualaba & Metambe the sheep
ar[ ]e hairy dewlaps = no wool = Tartar
breed? small thin tails -
0042
a broad belt of meadowland with no
trees lies along Lualaba - Beyond that it
is all dense forest. and trees so large
one lying across path is breast high
5clearances exist only around villages
0043
People very expert smiths and
weavers of the "Lamba" - make fine large
spears knives and needles = Market-
places called "Soko" - numerous all
5along Lualaba - To these the Barua
0044
of the other bank come daily in large
canoes bringing grass cloth, salt, flour,
cassava, fowls - goats - pigs & slaves =
Women beautiful with straight noses
5and well clothed When the men
0045
of districts are at war the women take
their goods to market as if at peace and
are never molested - all are very keen
traders buying one thing with another &
5changing back again and any gain
made is one of the enjoyments of life -
0046
I knew that my people hoped to be
fed by Muhamad Bogharib when
we left the camp at Mamohela
but he told them that he would not
5have them - This took them aback -
but they went & lifted his ivory
0047
for him and when a parley was thus
brought about talked him over saying
that they would go to me & do all I
desired - never came - but as no
5one else would take them I gave
them three loads to go to Bambarre
0048
There they told Muhamad that I would
not give them their beads & They did not like
to steal # - They were now trying to get
his food by lies - I invited them 3
5times to come & take beads but having
supplies of food from the camp
0049
women they hoped to get the upper
hand with me and take what they
liked by refusing to carry or work
Mohamad spoke long to them but speaking
5mildly makes them images that the
spokesman is afraid fo them - They
0050
they kept away from my work &
would fain join Muhamad's but he
wont have them - I gave beads to
all but the two ringleaders - their
5conduct looks as if a quarrel had
taken place between us but no such
0051
excuse have they - on leaving Nassick
African Asylum where they had been
clothed fed & taught for years they
sent an anonymous note to me abusing
5all the teachers & complaining of
0052
bad treatment - They were sent to their own
people but had all been slaves and
remained with me only to escape being
made to work again - If the freed men
5in America turn out well it
will be because they were taught
0053
to work - These might either work play
or do nothing at Nassick & not one of
them could handle a tool = they hoped
for long to get back to a life of idleness
5and such as they described would have
0054
any English boys - the teacher feared
that if punished for idleness they
would run away & bring discredit
on the Asylum They were of the lowest
5or criminal class in Africa
0055
and boasted in my hearing that
when fed to the full they stole pigs - kept
& fattened them with their extra food
them ^ at the school & killed & eat them
5When returning to Bambarre the
people of Moenemokia came to fight as
0056
they were drunk & fled as soon as they
saw resistance - no danger of being
turned up ^ on made my good boys rush
off unbidden & capture women &
5goats - another case occurred &
0057
off they ran but captured only fowls
and tobacco - two of them have captives
now bound in their possession
I am powerless as they have left
5me and think that they may do as
they like and the Manyema are
0058
bad is the song - their badness consists
in being dreadfully afraid of guns
and the Arabs can do just as they
like with them and their goods - If
5spears alone were used the Manyema
0059
would be considered brave for they fear
no one though he has many spears
They tell us truly "that were it not for
our guns not one of us would return"
5to our own country". Moenemokia
killed 2 Arab agents & took their guns
0060
This success led to their asserting
in answer to the remonstrances of the
women "We shall take their goats guns
and women from them" The chief in
5reporting the matter to Moenemgor at
Luamo said the Englishman told
0061
my people to go away as he did not
like fighting but my men were filled
with "malofu" or palm toddy & refused
to their hurt" Elsewhere they
5made regular preparation to have a
0062
fight with Dugumbe's people just to
see who was strongest. They with their
spears & wooden shields or the Arabs
with what in derision they called tobacco
5pipes (guns) They killed eight or nine Arabs.
0063
The Manyema villages are situated on
slopes - often on the spurs of mountains
for the sake of quick drainage - The
streets run nearly East & West to catch
5the full influence of the Sun - The huts
0064
are of a square form = the walls being of
well beaten clay - they are well supplied
with firewood piled up on shelves along
the walls inside - This is the women's work
5thatch of leaves or grass - low in the
roof and still lower by each housewife
0065
having form 20 to 30 neatly made bas-
kets and as many earthen pots hung
to the ceiling - A raised platform of
clay is the sleeping place - a fire at its
5side gives light & heat - while a wall
0066
screens it from the middle compartment
another wall divides off a private room
for stores - the villages are very numerous
a clump of them forms a district with
5its headman - It is usually isolated from
0067
every other - nothing would induce men
to go into next district - they came 5 or 6
miles through the intervening forest
then after civilly inviting us to come
5back by the same route on our return
0068
went back - fear of being killed & eaten
was the reason assigned or simply
they were at war with their next neighbours
no traders seem ever to have come in
5before this - Barua brought copper
0069
and skins for tusks and the Babira
& Baguha coarse beads - The Bavira
are now enraged at seeing Ujijians
pass into their ivory field - and
5no wonder - They took the tusks
0070
which cost them a few strings of beads
and recieved weight for weight in beads
thick brass wire & loads of calico
To be copied into Journal
5David Livingstone
[I]
Bambarre 18 August 1870 – I learn from Josuf & Moenepembe
who have been to Katanga and beyond that there is a Lake N N W
of the copper mine and 12 days distant – It is called Chibungo and is
said to be large – seven days West of Katanga flows another Lualaba
5the dividing line between Rua and Lunda or Londa - It is very large
and as the Lufira flows into Chibungo it is probable that the Lualaba
West and Lufira form the Lake = Lualaba West and Lufira rise by
fountains South of Katanga 3 or 4 days. Liambai and Lunga ftns
are only about 10 miles distant from Lualaba West & Lufira fountains.
10a mound rises between them the most remarkable in Africa
Were this spot in Armenia it would serve exactly the description
of the garden of Eden in Genesis with its four rivers – the
Gihon – Pison Hiddekel and Euphrates – As it is it possibly
gave occasion to the story told Herodotus by the secretary of
15Minerva in the city of Sais about two hills with conical tops
Crophi and Mophi – midway between them ^ said he are the fountains of the
Nile – fountains which it is impossible to fathom - Half the
water runs Northward into Egypt - half to the South towards Ethiopia.
Four fountains rising so near to each other would readily be supposed to
20have one source and half the water flowing into the Nile – the other
have{lf} to the Zambesi required but little imagination to originate, seeing
the actual visitor would not feel bound to say how the division
was effected He could only know the fact of waters rising at one
spot and separating to flow North and South – The conical
25tops to the mound looks like invention as also do the names.
A slave bought on Lualaba East came from Lualaba
West in about twelve days – These two Lualabas may form
the loop depicted by Ptolemy and upper and lower Tanganyika
be a third arm of the Nile – Patience is all I can exercise – these
30irritable ulcers hedge me in now as did my attendants in June
but all will be for the best for it is in Providence & not in me
II
II. The watershed is between 700 and 800 miles long from West to East
or say from ^ 22°- 23° –- to 34° ^ -35 East longitude – Parts of it are enormous
sponges - In other parts innumerable rills unite into rivulets which ^ again
form rivers – Lufira for instance has nine rivulets and Lekulwe other
5nine – The Rose of a garden watering can is a not very apt similitude as
the rills do not spring off the face of it, and it is 700 miles across the circle
but in the numbers of rills coming out at different heights on the slope
there is a faint resemblance, and I cant at present think of no other – I am
a little thankful to old Nile for so hiding his head that all "theoretical dis-
10-coverers" are left out in the cold With all real explorers I have
a hearty sympathy, and I have some regret at being in a manner compelled obliged to speak
somewhat disparagingly of the opinions formed by my predecessors
The work of Speke and Grant is part of the history of this region and since
the discovery of the sources of the Nile was asserted so positively
15in making a somewhat similar claim it seems necessary to
explain –, not offensively I hope, wherein their mistake lay – My
opinions may yet be shewn to be mistaken too – but at present I cannot
concieve how - When Speke discovered Victoria Nyanza in 1858
he at once concluded that therein lay the sources of the Nile His
20work after that was simply following a foregone conclusion and
subsequently as soon as he and Grant looked towards the
Victoria Nyanza they turned their backs on the Nile fountains
and so every step of their splendid achievement of following
the river down took them further & further away from the Caput
25Nili – As soon as When it was percieved that the little river that leaves
the Nyanza though called they called it the White Nile would not account
for that great river they might have gone West and found
Head waters as the Lualaba to which it can bear no comparison
Taking ^ their White Nile 80 or 90 yds or say 100 yds as its breadth the Lualaba
30far south of the North end Latitude of its point of departure
shews and average breadth of ^ from 4000 to 6000 yards and always deep.
Baker discovered the lower portion of Tanganyika – He
came farther up the Nile than any traveller in modern times
but turned when about 700 miles short of the sources
III
III. a Dutch lady explorer deserves our sympathy more than any
other for after the loss of he severest domestic afflictions, the loss of her
two aunts by fever she nobly persevered until after she was assured
by Speke and Grant that they had already discovered in Victoria
5Nyanza the sources she sought – that they not, honestly enough no
doubt, given their own mistaken views - She had shewn so much
wise foresight in providing not only a steamer but means of
further progress by land and water she must inevitably have
reached the true head waters – I cannot concieve of her stopping
10short of Lake Bangweolo – We great He donkeys say exploration
was not becoming her sex – considering that more ^ than sixteen hundred
years have elapsed since Ptolemy put down the results ^ of early
explorers, and Emperors, Kings, Philosophers – all the great
men of antiquity longed to know the fountains whence flowed
15the famous river – and long in vain – exploration does not
seem to have been very becoming the other sex either – she came
further up the river than the centurions sent by Nero Caesar
and shewed such indomitable pluck as to reflect honour on her race
I know nothing about her save by what has appeared in the public
20papers but taking her exploration along with what was done
no long time could have elapsed before the laurels
by Lady Baker I am proud to think that [ ] a
worthy part for ^ the modern rediscovery of the sources of the
Nile should have been plucked by the ladies -
25In 1841 the ^ 2nd Egyptian ^ 2nd expedition ^ [ ] under D'Arnauld & Sabatier
reached North Lat. 4° 42' - This was a great advance into the
the Interior as compared with Linant in ^ 1827 13° 30' N. and even on
the explorations of Jomard but it turned when nearly a thousand miles from the sources
IV
IV. #57B 24 August 1870 = Four gorillas or soko's were killed 169
yesterday an extensive grass burning forced them out of
their usual haunt and coming on the plain they were soon
speared – they often go erect but place the hands on the head
5as if to steady the body - When seen thus he is an ungainly
beast - The most sentimental young lady would not call him
a "dear" but a bandy legged – pot-bellied – low looking villain
without a particle of the gentleman in him – other animals
especially the antelopes are graceful and it is pleasant to
10see them either at rest or moving in motion – the natives
also are well made, lithe and comely to behold – Soko
if large would do well to stand for a picture of the Devil.
He takes away my appetite by his disgusting bestiality
of appearance - His light yellow face shews off his ugly
15whiskers and faint apology for a beard – The forehead
villainously low with high ears is well in the background
by the great dog mouth – teeth slightly human but the
canines shew the beast by their large development – the
hands or rather the fingers are like those of the natives
20The fat of the flesh is yellow and the eagerness with
which the Manyuema devour it leaves the impression
that eating Sokos was one sta[ ]ge by which they arrived
at being cannibals – they say the flesh is delicious –
{18}
[ ]
Bambarre, 25th August, 1870.
One of my waking dreams is that the legendary
tales about Moses coming up into Inner
5Ethiopia with Merr his foster-mother, and
founding a city which he called in her honour
"Meroe," may have a substratum of fact.
He was evidently a man of transcendent
genius and we learn from the speech of
10St. Stephen that "he was learned in all
the wisdom of the Egyptians, and was mighty
in words & in deeds." The deeds must have
been well known in Egypt for "he supposed
that his brethern would have understood
15how that God by his hand would deliver
them, but they understood not." His supposition
could not be founded on his success in
smiting a single Egyptian. He was too great
a man to be elated by #a single act of prowess
20but his success on a large scale in Ethiopia
afforded reasonable grounds for believing
that his brethern would be proud of their
countryman, and disposed to follow his
leadership, but they were slaves. The notice
25taken of the matter by Pharaoh shewed
that he was eyed by the great as a dangerous
#304
{19}
if not powerful man. He "dwelt" in
Midian for some time before his gallant
bearing towards the shepherds by the well,
commended him to the Priest or Prince
5of the country. An uninteresting wife and
the want of intercourse with kindred spirits
during the long forty years' solitude of a
herdsman's life, seems to have acted injuriously
on his spirits, and it was not till he had
10with Aaron struck terror into the Egyptian
mind, that the "man Moses" again became
"very great in the eyes of Pharaoh and
his servants." - The Ethiopian woman whom
he married could scarcely be the daughter
15of Reuel or Jethro for Midian was descended
from Keturah, Abraham's concubine, and
they were never considered Cushite or
Ethiopian. If he left his wife in Egypt
she would now be some 50 or 60 years old,
20and all the more likely to be despised by
the proud prophetess Miriam as a daughter
of Ham. I dream of discovering some
monumental relics of Meroe and if anything
of confirmatory of sacred history does remain
25I pray to be guided thereunto. If the sacred
chronology would thereby be confirmed, I would
not grudge the toil & hardships, hunger
& pain, I have endured - the
irritable ulcers would only be discipline. -
30This Manyema country is unhealthy not
so much from fever as from debility of the
whole system, induced by damp, cold, and
indigestion. This general weakness is ascribed
by some to maize being the common food. It
{20}
shows itself in weakness of bowels & choleraic
purging. This may be owing to bad water,
there is no scarcity, but it is so impregnated
with dead vegetable matter, as to have the
5colour of tea. Irritable ulcers fasten on any
part attached (?) by any accident, and
it seems to be a spreading fungus for the
matter settling on any part near becomes a
fresh centre of propagation. The vicinity
10of the ulcer is very tender, and it eats in
frightfully if not allowed rest. Many slaves
die of it, and its periodical discharges
of bloody ichor makes me suspect it to be a
development of fever. Support seems to be
15essential, but the ichor forcing its way out is
so painful the supporting bandages have to
be loosed. I have found lunar caustic useful.
A plaister of wax, and a little finely ground
sulphate of copper is used by the Arabs, and
20so is cocoa-nut oil and butter. These ulcers
are excessively intractable. There is no healing
of them before they eat into the bone, especially
on the shins. The pain causes slaves to cry
the whole night long.
25Rheumatism is also common and it cuts
the natives off. The traders fear these diseases
and come to a stand if attacked, in order
to use rest in the cure. "Taema," or Tape-
worm is frequently met with - No remedy
30is known among the Arabs & natives for it.
Syphilitic [ ] skin diseases are common among
Manyema - large scabs on face & body,
even among children. The Arabs increase
them by impure intercourse. Filthy takers all.
{21}
6 #11
White leprosy is also common. Malachite
ground on a stone with water is good for
irritable ulcers.
5When Speke saw that his little river out of
the Victoria Nyanza would not account for
the Nile, the more philosophic course would
have been instead of conjecturing a backwater,
to strike ^ west across the great valley, and there
10not to mention Baker's water which he too
might have called a Lake, he would have
come to the central Lualaba, not 90 or 100
yards but from 2000 to 6000 yards and
always deep - this near the bottom of the
15trough, and then further West another
Lualaba, a worthy companion to that in
the centre. The central Lualaba I would
fain call the Lake River Webb, - the Western
the Lake River Young. The Lufira and
20Lualaba West form a Lake the native name
of which, "Chibungo" must give way to Lake
Lincoln. I wish to name the fountain of
the Liambai or Upper Zambesi, Palmerston
fountain, using these two names by way
25of placing my poor little garland on their
tombs, and adding that of Sir Bartle
Frere to the fountain of Lufira. Three
names of men who have done more to
abolish slavery & the slave-trade than
30any of their contemporaries.
4th October 1870. A trading party came from
Ujiji, arrived on 23d Sept, left for N.W. four
days afterwards. Report an epidemic raging
between coast & Ujiji & very fatal. Syde bin
35Habib and Dugumbe coming - they have letters
{22}
and perhaps people for me, so I remain, though
the irritable ulcers are well-nigh healed.
I fear that my packet for the coast may
have fared badly, for the Lewale has kept
5Musa Kamaal by him so that no evidence
against himself or dishonest man Musa
bin Saloom should be given. My box and
guns with Despatches I fear will never be sent.
Zahor, to whom I gave calico to pay carriers
10has been sent off to Lobemba. Muhamad
sowed rice yesterday. Has to send his
people who were unsuccessful among Balegga
away to the Metambe, where they got ivory
before. - I cannot understand very well
15what a "Theoretical Discoverer" is. If anyone
got up and declared in a public meeting
that he was the theoretical discoverer of
the "philosopher's stone", of perpetual motion
for watches, should we not mark him as
20a little wrong in the head? So of the Nile
sources. The Portuguese crossed the Chambeze
some seventy years before I did, but to them
it was a branch of the Zambesi & nothing
more. Cooley put it down as the New Zambesi
25and made it run backwards, uphill
between 3000 & 4000 feet! I was misled by
the similarity of names and a map to think
it the Eastern branch of the Zambesi. I was
told that it formed a large water in the
30South West. This I readily believed to be
the Liambai, in the Barotse Valley, and
it took me eighteen months of toil to work
back again to the Chambeze in Lake
Bangweolo, and work out the error into
{23}
12
which I was led. Twenty-two months elapsed
ere I got back to the point whence I set
out to explore Chambeze, Bangweolo,
5Luapula, Moero, and Lualaba. I spent
two full years at this work, and the Chief
Cazembe was the first to throw light on
the subject. - "It is the same water here
as in the Chambeze, the same in Moero
10& Lualaba and one piece of water is just
like another. Will you draw out calico
from it that you wish to see it? As your
chief desired you to see Bangweolo, go to
it, and if in going north you see a travelling
15party, join it - if not come back to me
and I will send you safely by my path along
Moero." #fox
8th Octr 1870. - Mbarawa & party came yesterday
from Katomba at Mamohela. Reports that
20Jangeonge (?) with Moeneokela's men had been
killing people of Metamba or forest, and
four of his people slain. He intended
fighting, hence his desire to get rid of me
when I went north. Got one and a half
25tusks, but little ivory, but Katomba's party
got fifty tusks. Abdullah had got two tusks
also been fighting, and Katomba had sent
a fighting party down to Lolinde. Plunder &
murder is Ujijian trading. Mbarawa got
30his ivory on the Lindi or as he says "Urindi"
which has black water, and is very large -
An arrow could not be shot across; its
400 or 500 yards had to be crossed by canoes,
goes into Lualaba. - It is curious that all
35think it necessary to say to me, "The Manye
{24}
Manyema are bad - very bad." The Balegga
will be let alone, because they can fight, and
we shall hear nothing of their badness. My
slavelings join in the chorus of the Manyema
5being bad. The Babemba were good said
Simon, and he killed two because he was
safe. - -
X
X to be copied into Journal = 10th Octr 1870 came out of hut today 1
after being confined to it since 22nd July or 80 days – by irritable
ulcers on the feet - The last 20 days I suffered from fever
which reduced my strength, taking away my voice and
5purging me = appetite good but the third mouthful of any
food caused [ ]{n}ausea & vomiting – purging took place of
profuse sweating – I am thankful to feel myself well –
only one ulcer open the size of a split pea – Malachite was
the remedy most useful but the beginning of the rains may
10have helped the cure as it does to others = copper rubbed down
is used when malachite cannot be had – We expect
Syde Bin Habib soon - He will take to the river and I
hope so shall I – The native traders reached people who
had horns of oxen got from left bank of Lualaba – Ka-
15tomba’s people got most ivory namely 50 tusks – the others
only four – the Metamba or forest is of immense extent
and there is room for much ivory to be picked up
at 5 or 7 bracelets of copper per tusk if the slaves sent
will only be merciful – The nine villages and a 100 men
20killed by Katomba’s slaves at Nasangwa were
all about a string of beads fastened to a powder horn
which a manyema man tried in vain to steal – – Ka
gets 25 of the 50 tusks brought by his people
XI
XI. we expect letters & perhaps men by Syde Bin Habib.
No news from the coast had come to Ujiji save a rumour
that some one was building a large house at Bagamoio
but whether French or English no one can say – possibly
5the Mission urged on by Colonel Playfair & Dr Kirk
Tozer curiously enough follows the policy of Bp Mackenzie
which he so formally repudiated – Rearing boys got from
captives of men of war and writing to India that to teach
the young thus obtained is the great secret of mission work
10He does not know that the especial instruction
of the young has been advocated & acted on for the last
30 years in Africa India South Seas & elsewhere – Possibly
the erection of a huge establishment on the mainland
may be a way of laboriously proving that it is more healthy
15than the island to which he was driven by fear of death
It will take a long time to prove by stone & lime that the higher
lands 200 miles inland ar better still both for longevity
and work – I am in agony for news from home
All I feel sure of now is that my friends will all wish
20me to complete my task – I join in the wis now as
better than doing it in vain afterwards
XII
XII. The Manyema hoeing is little better than scraping the 2
soil & cutting through the roots of grass & weeds by a horizontal
motion of the hoe or knife – They leave the roots of maize
groundnuts – sweet potatoes & dura to find their way into
5the rich soft soil, and well they succeed so there is no need
for deep ploughing - The groundnuts & cassave hold their
own against grass for years Bananas if cleared of
weeds yield abundantly – Muhamad sowed rice
just outside the camp without any advantage being secured
10by the vicinity of a rivulet and it yielded for one measure
of seed one hundred & twenty measures of increase – This
season he plants and on the damp soil
along a rivulet called bonde The rainwater does not
percolate far – The clay retains it about 2 feet beneath the
15surface – this is a cause of unhealthiness to man – Fowls
and goats have been cut off this year in large numbers
by an epidemic -
Sentence to be inserted after ""there may only be a thread"
20of water at the bottom but the mud is grievous" Some 20
or 40 yards of the path on each bank is mixed up by the feet
of passengers into a deep stickey mass – [ ]{You} may put one
foot on each side and{of} the walk and waddle onwards but soon
that fails you for the rank vegetation often usurps the few
25foot holds you have and down
inches you come into the mire
XIII
XIII. Often too the path takes the bed of the rill for 50 or 60 yds
as if the first passenger had gone that distance seeking a space
of forest less dense for his path = Near a village the road run-
-ning along a rivulet may have been to make it difficult for an
5enemy to find a path by night = The approaches to hamlets on the
side of a hill are certainly made with a view to confuse marauders
for they come near the dwellings and then ascend to a point
above the highest point of the village, and they go winding up
and down the steepest parts of the slope The rank vegetation
10being left so that it is impossible to take a straight course –
The visit of the Ujijian traders must be felt by the Man-
-yema to be a severe infliction - The huts are appropriated and
no leave asked – Firewood - pots – baskets food used without
scruple and anything that pleases is taken away – Usually the
15women flee into the forest and return to find the whole place a
litter of broken food – I tried to pay the owners of the huts in
which I slept but often in vain for they were hidden in the forest
and feared to come near – It was common for old men
to come forward to me with a present of bananas as I passed
20uttering with trembling accents "Bolongo "Bolongo" friendship
friendship. If I stopped to make a little return present others
ran for plantains or palm toddy = The slaves eat up what
they demanded without one word of thanks - "but they are
bad" dont give them anything" Why what badness is there in
25giving food - "O they like you" but hate us" - one man gave
me an iron ring and seemed inclined to be friendly –
yet they are undoubtedly bloodthirsty to other Manyema
& kill each other
XIV [v.1]
XIV 13th Octr 1870 – Lions fat is asserted to be a certain [1]
preventative to the bite of the Tsetse – Lions are very numerous
in Urori and many are killed and the fat sold – the Garaganza
use it to protect their cattle and when smeared on the animals
5the Tsetse comes not near them on accout of the smell –
on coming inland the safe way is to go to 1 Mdonye
2 Makinde 3 Zungomero 4 Masapi 5 Irundu
then turn ^ North to the Nyamnyams and thence to the Nyembe
6 Nyamgore & then South to Merere’s
10and so on South to Merere’s – A woman chief lies in
the straight way to Merere but no cattle live in her land –
another insect lights on the animals & when licked off bites the tongue
or breeds & is fatal as well – as tsetse – It is large in size –
Tipotipo & Syde bin Ali come to Nyembe – thence
15to Nsamas cross Lualaba at Mpwetos – follow left bank
of that river till they cross the next Lualaba & so into
Lunda of Matiamvo – much ivory may be obtained
by this course & it shews enterprise –-
Syde bin Habib & Dugumbe will open up the
20Lualaba this year and I am hoping to enter the West
Lualaba or Youngs river, and if possible go up to
Katanga – The Lord be my guide & helper – I feel the [3]
want of medicine strongly as much almost as of men
[XIV v.2]
Turn over = safe way to avoid the #
[2] Tsetse in going to Merere's ^ North to 1 Mdonye
2 Makinde 3 Zungomero 4 Masapè
55 Irundu 6 Nyamgore = then South
to Merere's
Msene 6 days from Unyembe North
market & many Arabs live there
10all these ten Rivers go into Uerere
Mokunge three eyes or fountains all
very hot.
{figure}
15
# Travelled 199
hours but so
mountainous
say 200 miles
20
# Rivers crossed
by Ramadan &
Hassani August
and Septr 1870
25in Balegga -
They fall into U-
-irere -? Baker's
or what a
"large water" -
{29}
[ ]
16th Octr 1870 - Moenemgoi
the chief came to tell me that Monamyembo
had sent five goats to Lohombo to get a charm
5to kill him. "Would the English and Kolokolo
(Muhamad) allow him to be killed while
they were here?" I said that it was a false
report but he believes it firmly. Monamyembo
sent his son to assure us that he was
10slandered, but thus quarrels and bloodshed
feuds arise. The great want of the Manyema
is national life. Of this they have none.
Each headman is independent of every other.
Of industry they have no lack, and the villagers
15are orderly towards each other, but they go
no further. If a man of another district ventures
among them it is at his peril. He is not
regarded with more favour as a Manyema
than one of a herd of buffaloes is by the
20rest. He is almost sure to be killed.
Moenekus had more wisdom than his
countrymen. His eldest son went over to
Monamyembo's who was subject to the father
was killed by five spear wounds. The old
25chief went and asked "Who had kllled slain
his son"? "None knew, perhaps the Bahombo.
he went thither - They denied it - Then they
said "Perhaps Monamdenda" - he denied.
question repeated, received same answer -
30"didn't know." The old man ^ then died - This,
{30}
8. 15
though he was heartbroken was called witch-
craft by Monamyembo. Eleven people were
murdered, and after this cruel man was
5punished he sent a goat with the confession
that he had killed Moenekus' son. This
son had some of the father's [ ] wisdom.
The others he never could get to act like men
of sense.
10The sites chosen for some of the most signal
Grecian oracles were marked by the rushing
forth of a living spring from the recesses of
the native rocks of Greece, the Castalian
springs at Delphi, the rushing stream of
15the Hercynia at Lebadea. It was felt that
nothing could so well express the Divine voice
speaking from the hidden abysses of the
unseen world as those inarticulate but lively
ebullitions of the life giving element from its
20unknown mysterious sources. The prophetic
utterances in the remoter East were the
bubbling, teeming springs of life in those hard
primitive rocks, in those dry parched levels.
"My heart is inditing" - is bursting, bubbling
25over with a good matter. This image would be
drawn from the abundant crystal fountains
which all along the valley of the Jordan pour
forth their full grown streams, - scattering
fertility and verdure as they flow over the
30rough ground, - "boiling or bubbling over" of
the "Divine fountain of Inspiration within
the Soul."
"The words of Judgment bursting out one by
one, slowly, heavily, condensed, abrupt from
35the prophet's heavy and shrinking soul; each
{31}
sentence wrung forth with a groan, as though
he had anew to take breath before he uttered a
renewed woe; each word forming a whole for
itself, like one heavy toll of a funeral knell."
5(Pusey) - - (Jowett) "At the time when our
Saviour came into the world the Greek language
was in a state of degeneracy & decay. But that
degeneracy may be ranked among the causes
that fanned the growth of Christianity. It was
10a preparation for the Gospel, the decaying soil
in which the new elements of life were to come
forth, the one common speech of the then
civilized nations of the world. The definiteness
of earlier forms of human speech would have
15imposed a limit on the freedom of the Gospel.
A religion which was to be universal required
that the division of languages, no less than
of nations should be broken down. It pleased
God through broken and hestitating forms of
20speech to reveal the universal truth for which
the Greek of Plato would have been no fitting temple". -
[ ]
XVII
XVII to be copied - 19th Octr Bambarre = The Ringleading
Nassick deserters sent Chuma to say that they were going with the
people of Muhamad what{ich} left today to the Metamba = I said
that I had naught to say to them – They would go now to the
5Metamba which on deserting they said they so much feared & left
me to go with only three attendants and get my feet torn to
pieces in mud & sand = They probably meant to go back to the
women at Mamohela who fed them in the absence of their husbands
They were told by Muhamad - that they must not follow his
10people and he gave orders to bind them & send them back if
they did – They think that no punishment will reach them
whatever they do – They are freemen & need not work or do any
thing but beg. "English" they call themselves & the Arabs fear
them though the eagerness with which they engaged in slave
15hunting shewed them to be genuine niggers – To lie without
compunction seems to be one of their Indian acquisitions – Ibram
said "that I told him to beg"! and Simon said that I had spoken
to him only once & he would [ ]{ha}ve gone on intended to go till I took
the gun from him – Derrides any entreaties Katumba spoke
20persuasively several times & he refused to go – The gun would
have been used to steal from the Manyema as it was when we
came back here to bully them for four fowls.
20th first heavy rain of this season fell yesterday afternoon
It is observable that the permanent halt to which the Manyema
25have come is not affected by the appearance of superior men among
them - They are stationary & improvement unknown - Moenekus paid
smiths to teach his sons and they learned to work in copper & iron
but he never could get them to imitate his own generous and
obliging deportment to others – He had to reprove them perpetually for
30mean short sight ways and when he died he virtually left no
successor for his sons are both narrow minded, mean,
short sighted creatures, without dignity or honour –
#Lonzua Luaze Luanzo
35
All they can say of
[ ]ir forefathers is that
they came from Lualaba up Luamo then to Luelo and
thence here – The name seems to mean forest people –
40Manyuema =
p72 into Last Journal p72
The party under Hassani crossed the Logumba at Kanying
gere’s – and went N. & N.N.E. – They found the country
becoming more & more mountainous till at last when
one day from Uerere it was perpetually up & down
45They slept at a village on the top They could send for
water to the bottom only once. It took so much time to
descend & ascend – Rivers all flowed into Uerere or
Lower Tanganyika Hot fountain – water could not
be touched nor stones stood upon Balegga very un-
50friendly – collected in thousands – we
came to buy ivory -
said Hassani & if
there is none we
go away
55{figure}
"Nay" shouted they, "you
came to die here" then
shot with arrows - when
shot was returned they
60fled & would not come
to receive the captives
XVIII
XVIII. 25th Octr 1870- Last Jour f II 72 Bambarre = to be copied #
In this Journey I have endeavoured to follow with
unswerving fidelity the line of duty – my course has
been an even one turning neither to the right hand
5nor the left though my route has been tortuous
enough = All the hardship hunger & toil were met
with the full conviction that I was right in persever
ing to make a complete work of the exploration of the
sources of the Nile – Mine has been a calm —
10hopeful endeavour to do the work that has been given
me to do whether I succeed or whether I fail – The prospect
of death in following pursuing what I knew to be
right did not make me veer to one side or the other
I had a strong presentiment during the first three
15years that I should never live through the work enterprise
but that weakened as I came near to the end of the
journey – and a strong desire to discover any
evidence of the great Moses having visited these
parts bound me – spellbound me – I may say
20for if I could bring to light anything to confirm
the sacred oracles I should not grudge one whit all
the labour expended – I have to go down the central
Lualaba or Webb’s lake river – Then up the Western
or Youngs lake river to Katanga head waters & then
25retire – I pray that it may be to my native home
Syde bin Habib – Dugumbe – Juma Merikano
Abdullah Masudi are coming in with 700 muskets
and immense store of beads copper &c They will
cross Lualaba & trade West of it – I wait for them
30because they may have letters for me – I have had no
letter from th Foreign Office – The last I had was a
piece of the most exhuberant impertinence that
ever left the Foreign or any other office – I was to
have no claim for any services rendered = no
35position when my work was done – Lord Russells
name had been obtained to it though a statesman
like him might bind future Governments to
to give h{H}e never would enjoin them not to give
This bore internal evidence of being the effusion
40of the supernumerary undersecretary Murray
I expect only the same treatment that Murray would
claim for himself – The offer of other work or
of being provided with another office – The slave
trade on the West Coast having ceased he ought
45to have resigned but he thought to earn his salary
by unjustly stopping mine – The only annoyances
I have suffered were from this as Lord Clarendon
called it "ungracious & unjust" letter - and from a
letter of busybody instructions from the R.G.S. (Sheet 9)
XIX
Syde bin Salem Burashid
family Lumke |
|
Mengongo soga – Guke a fish
sangardo – Do
|
5XIX. 28 Octr Moenemokaia who has travelled further
than most Arabs said to me "If goes with a good
natured civil tongue, he may pass through the worst
people in Africa unharmed" This true – time
also is required – one must not run ^ through a country, but
10give the people time to become acquainted with
you and let their first fears subside —
29th The Manyema buy their wives from each other
a pretty girl brings ten goats – saw one brought
home today – she came jauntily with but one
15attendant and her husband walking behind -
They stop five days – then go back and remain other
five days at home – The husband fetches her again
Many are pretty – and have perfect forms and
limbs – They hoe large spaces for maize – It is
20merely scraping the surface The soil is so rich
no more is needed
31st Oct – Monangoi of Luamo – married to the
sister of Moenekuss came some time ago to beg that
Kanyingere be attacked by Muhamad's people –
25no fault has he "but he is bad" – Monangoi the
chief here offered two tusks to effect the same thing
on refusal he sends the tusks to Katomba & may get
his countryman spoiled by him – "He is bad" is all they
can alledge as a reason – Meantime this chief here
30caught a slave who escaped = a prisoner from
Moenemokia's and sold him or her to Moenemokia
for 30 spears & some knives – When asked about this
captive he said "she died" – It was simply theft - but
he does not consider himself bad
352nd November 1870 – The plain without trees
that flanks the Lualaba on the right bank
called Mbuga is densely peopled and the
inhabitants are all civil and friendly – From
50 to 60 large canoes come over from the left
40bank daily to hold markets – These people too are
good but the dwellers in the Metamba or
dense forest are treacherous and murder a single
person without scruple – The dead is easily concealed
while on the plain all would become aware of it
45I long with intense desire to move on & finish
my work – I have also an excessive wish to find
any thing that may exist proving the visit of the
great Moses & the ancient Kingdom of Tirhaka
but I pray give me just what pleases Thee my
50Lord – and make submissive to Thy will in all things
XX
XX. I recieved information about Mr Young's search
trip up Shire and Nyassa only in February 1871 and
now take the first opportunity of offering hearty thanks
to H M Government and all concerned in kindly enquiring
5after my fate – Musa and his companions are fair average
specimens for heartlessness and falsehood of the lower
classes of Muhamadans in East Africa - When on the
Shire we swung the ship into midstream every night in order
to let the air put in motion by the water pass from end to end
10Musa's brother in law stepped into the water one morning
in order to swim off for a boat – and was seized by a crocodile
The poor fellow held up his hand imploringly but Musa and
the rest allowed him to perish – on my denouncing his
heartlessness, Musa replied “Well – no one tell him = go in there
15When at Senna a slave woman was seized by a crocodile,
four Makololo rushed in unbidden and rescued her –
though they knew nothing about her. From long inter-
course with both I take these incidents as typical of the
two races. Those of mixed blood possess the vices of both
20races and the virtues of neither – A gentleman of superior
abilities has devoted life and fortune to elevate the Johanna
men but fears that they are "an unimprovable race"
The Sultan of Zanzibar who knows his people better than
any stranger cannot entrust any branch of his revenue
25to even the better class of his subjects but places
his customs income and money affairs in the hands
of Banians from India, and his father did the same
before him – When the Muhamadan gentlemen of
Zanzibar are asked Why their sovereign places all his
30pecuniary affairs and fortune in the hands of aliens they
frankly avow that if he allowed any Arab to farm his
customs he would receive nothing but a crop of lies - Burton
had to dismiss most of his people at Ujiji for dishonesty –
Spekes followers deserted at the first approach of danger
35Musa fled in terror on hearing a false report from a half
caste Arab about the Mazitu 150 miles distant though
I promised to go due West and not turn to the North till far
past the beat of that tribe – The few liberated slaves with
whom I went on had the misfortune to be Muhamadan
40slaves in boyhood but did fairly till we came into close
contact with moslems again. A black Arab ^ was released
from a 12 years bondage by Cazembe through my own
influence and that of the Sultan's letter = We travelled
together for a time and he sold the favours of his female
45slaves to my people for goods which he perfectly well knew
were stolen from me – He recieved my four deserters
and when I had gone off to L Bangweolo with only four
attendants the rest wished to follow but he dissuaded
them by saying that “I had gone into a country where there
50was war” – He was the direct cause of all my difficulties
with these liberated slaves but judged by the East African
Moslem standard as he ought to be and not by ours - He is
a very good man, and I did not think it prudent to come
to a rupture with the old blackguard –
[map]
[map]
[map]
[map]
{figure}
Last Journals Vol p 71
XXI
XXI Laba means in the Manyema dialect medicine - 3
a charm - "boganga" This would make Lualaba mean the
river of medicine or charms - but we do not hear of
its being famed among them as the Ganges is in
5India - and possibly this is not the proper meaning
of the word - Muhamad and others found its banks
very healthy and it yields abundant food both
in its waters and on its banks. The sacred River
does not accord with the fact of Lualaba being
10applied to the Lufira when it becomes large
and also to the third Lualaba or Young's river
still further West dividing Rua from Lōnda -
Hassani thought that it meant great because
it seemed to mean flowing greatly or grandly -
15 Cazembe caught all the slaves that escaped
from Muhamad and placed them in charge of Funga
-funga so there is little hope for fugitive slaves so long as
Cazembe lives = This act is to the Arab's very good -
He is very sensible and upright besides - XXI
XXII
XXII 3d Novr 1870 got a Kondo hondoas the large
double billed Hornbill The ^ Buceros cristata Kangomira of the Shire and
the Sassassa of Bambarre - It is good eating = The
fat of an orangetinge like that of the zebra I keep
5the hide to make a spoon of it - An Ambassador
at Stanboul or Constantinople was shewn a
hornbill spoon and asked if it were really the bill
of the Phoenix - He replied that he did not
know but he had a friend in London who knew
10all these sort of things - The Turkish Ambassador
in London brought the spoon to Professor Owen
He observed something in the divergence of the
fibres of the horn which he knew before and
went off into the Museum of the college of Surgeons
15and brought a preserved specimen of this very
bird - "God is great - God is great" said the Turk
This is the Phoenix of which we have heard so often =
I heard the professor tell this at a dinner of the
London Hunterian Society in 1857.
XXIII
XXIII There is no great chief in Manyema or Balegga 4
all are petty headmen each of whom considers himself a
chief - It is the Ethnic State with no cohesion between
the different portions of the tribe - Murder cannot
5be punished except by a war in which many
fall and the feud is made worse and trans-
mitted to their descendants. cor copied
+ The Soko is represented by some to be extremely
cunning stalking succesfully men & women
10while at their work - kidnapping children -
and running up trees with them - He seems
to be amused by the sight of the young native
in his arms - but comes down when tempted
by a bunch of bananas and as he lifts that
15drops the child - The young Soko in that case would
cling closely to the armpit of the older - One man
was cutting out honey from a tree and naked a
Soko suddenly appeared & caught by by the privates
XXIV
XXIV then let him go Another man was hunting
and missed in his attempt to stab a Soko - Soko seized
the spear & broke it then grappled with the man who
called to his companions "#Soko has caught me" he bit off
5the ends of his fingers #and escaped unharmed -
both men are now alive at Bambarre Soko
is so cunning and has such sharp eyes that no
one can stalk him in front with^out being seen by
his small sharp eyes, hence when shot it is
10always in the back - When surrounded by men
and nets he is generally speared in the back too
otherwise he is not a very formidable beast -
He is nothing as compared in power of damaging
his assailant to a leopard or lion - He is
15more like a man unarmed - It does not occur
to him to use his canine teeth which are long
and formidable - Sokos come down in the
forest within a hundred yards of our camp & would be
unknown but for giving tongue Like fox hounds
20This is his nearest approach to speech -
XXV
XXV A man hoeing having his privates uncovered 5
behind was stalked by a Soko and seized thereby - He
roared out but Soko giggled & grinned & left him
as if he had done it in play - a child caught up
5by Soko is often abused by being pinched & scratched
and let fall He is said sometimes to use a
spear drawn out of his own body but this is denied
by some - Soko kills the Leopard occasionally by
seizing both paws & biting them so as to disable
10them - Soko goes up a tree groans over his
wounds & sometimes recovers - while Leopard
dies - At other times both Soko & Leopard die -
Lion kills him at once and sometimes tears his
limbs off but does not eat him - Soko eats
15no flesh - #small bananas #are his dainties but
not maize - his food consist of wild fruits
which abound - one Stafene or Manyema mamwa is
like large sweet sop but indifferent in taste & flesh
Soko brings forth at times twins - never catches women
XXVI
XXVI A very large Soko was seen by Muhamads
hunter sitting picking his nails - tried to stalk him but
he vanished - Some Manyema think that their buried
rise as Sokos - one was killed with holes in his ears
5as if he had been a man - # He is very strong - fears guns
but not spears -
The Heathen Philosophers were content with mere
guesses at the future of the Soul - The elder prophets
10were content with the Divine support in life and in
death - The later prophets advance further as
Isaiah - Thy dead men shall live together with my
dead body shall they arise - awake and sing ye that
dwell in the dust for thy dew is as the dew of herbs
15the earth also shall cast out her dead" This taken
with the sublime spectacle of Hades in the XIV chap
seems a forecast of the future but Jesus instructed
Mary and her sister and Lazarus & Martha without
hesitation spoke of the resurrection at the last
20day as a familiar doctrine far in advance of its
Mosaic law in which she h{she had} been reared
XXVII
XXVII 6
Ikwenu alumwa = Lualaba salutation
a ko sema iamwu Manyema Do to men
Doshanga kakaka Do to women
5Monyungo chief was sent for five years among the
Watuta to learn their language and ways - He sent
his two sons and a daughter to Zanzibar to school
Kills many of his people says they are so bad if
not killed they would murder strangers - Unruly
10ordered some of them to give their huts to Muhamad
refusing he put fire to them & they soon called
out let them alone we will retire - He dresses
like Arabs has ten loaded guns at his sitting place
four pistols - two swords several spears and
15a two bundles of the Batuta spears - laments
that his # father filed his # teeth when # he was young
The names of his very numerous people is Bawungu
country Wungu = his other names are Iranga - Mohamu
XXVIII
XXVIII The Basango on the other hand consider their chief
as a deity and fear to say aught wrong lest he should hear
them = They fear both before him & when out of sight = The
Father of #Merere never drank pombe or beer and
5assigned as a reason that a great man who had
charge of people's lives should never become
intoxicated so as to do evil = Bange he never
smoked but in council smelled at a bunch of it
in order to make his people believe it had
10great effect on him - - Merere drinks pombe
freely but never uses Bange - He alone kills
sheep - He is a lover of mutton - and beef
but neither goats nor fowls are touched by him
9 th Novr 1870 sent to Lohombo for dura
15and planted some Nyumbo - I long excessively
to be away and finish any work by the two Lacustr
Lacustrine rivers Lualaba of Young and Webb
but wait only for Syde & Dugumbe who may
have letters and as I do not intend to return
XXIX
XXIX hither but go through Karagwe homewards 7
I should miss them altogether - I groan and am
in bitterness at the delay but thus it is - I pray
for help to do what is right but sorely am I
5perplexed and grieved and mourn - I
cannot give up making a complete work of
the exploration
10th November 1870 a party of Katombas men
10arrived on their way to Ujiji for carriers - they
report that a foray was met S W of Mamohela
to recover four guns which were captured
from Katomba and his people killed when
last here - Three were recovered and ten
15of the Arab party slain The people of Manyema
fought very fiercly with arrows and not till
many were killed and others mutilated would
they give up the guns - They probably expected
this foray and intended to fight to the last
XXX
XXX - They had not gone in search of ivory while
this was enacting consequently Muhamads men
have got the start of them completely by going along
Lualaba to Kasongo's and then along the western verge
5of the Metamba or forest to Loinde or Rindi R -
The last men sent took to fighting instead of trading
and returned empty - The experience gained
thus and at the South West will probably
lead them to conclude that the Manyema are
10not to be shot down without reasonable cause
They have sown rice and maize at Mamo-
hela but cannot trade now where they got
so much ivory before - Free men were
killed at Rindi or Loinde and one escaped
15The reason of this outbreak by men who have
been so peaceable is not divulged but anyone
seeing the wholesale plunder to which the houses
& gardens were subject can easily guess the rest
XXXI
XXXI Mamohela camp had several times been [8]
set on fire at night by the tribes which suffered assault
but did not effect all that was intended - The Arabs
say that the Manyema now understand that
5every gunshot does not kill - The next thing they
will learn will be to grapple in close quarters
in the forest where their spears will outmatch
the guns in the hands of slaves - It will follow
too that no one will be able to pass through this
10country - this is the usual course of Suaheli
trading - It is murder and plunder and each
slave as he rises in his owners favour is
eager to shew himself a mighty man of valour
by cold blooded killing of their country men
15If they can kill a fellow nigger their pride boils up
The conscience is not enlightened enough to cause un-
-easiness and Moslemism gives less than the light of
nature - I am grievously tired of living here.
XXXII
XXXII Muhamad is as kind as he can be but to
sit idle or give up before I finish my work are
both intolerable I cannot bear either yet am forced
to remain by want of people - Merciful Father Help me
5
11th Novr Wrote to Muhamad bin Saleh at Ujiji
for letters and medicines to be sent in a box of
china tea which is half empty - If he cannot
get carriers for the long box itself - then he is
10to send these the articles of which I stand in
greatest need -
Friends of a boy captured at Monanyembe
brought three goats to redeem him - He is sick
and emaciated - one goat was rejected - The boy
15cried tears when he saw his grandmother
and the father too when his goat was rejected
"So I returned and considered all the oppressions
that are done under the Sun - and behold the tears
of such as were were oppressed and they had
XXXIII
XXXIII no comforter, and on the side of their oppression 9
there was power but they had no comforter" Ecc IV-I
the relations were told either to bring the goat or let the
boy die - This was hard hearted - at Mamohela
5ten goats are demanded for a captive & given too
Here three are demanded "He that is higher than the
"highest regardeth, and there be higher than they"
"marvel not at the matter"
I did not write to the coast for I suspect that the
10Lewale Syde bin Salem Buraschad destroys my
letters in order to quash the affair of robbery by his
man Saloom he kept the other thief Kamaals by
him for the same purpose - Muhamad writes
to Bin Saleh to say that I am here & well - that I
15sent a large packet of letters in June/69 - with money
received no answer - nor my box from Unyembe
and this is to be communicated to the consul by a friend
at Zanzibar - If I wrote it would only be to be burned
This is as far as I can see at present
XXXIV
XXXIV. The friend who will communicate with
the consul is Muhamad bin Abdullah the Wuzeer
Seyd Suleiman is the lewale of Governor of Zanzibar
Suleiman bin Ali or Sheikh Suleiman the Secretary
5
The Mamohela horde is becoming terrified
Every party going to trade has lost three or four
men and the last foray lost ten and saw
that the Manyema can fight - They will soon
10refuse to go among those whom they have forced
to be enemies - one of the Bazula invited a
man to with him to buy ivory - when well
in among Zulas he asked if his gun
killed men and how - He was shewn a bale
15 and powder and stabbed his informant dead
no one knows the reason of this but the
man probably lost some of his relations else
where - This is called murder without cause
XXXV
XXXV. When Syde and Dugumbe come I hope to 10
get men and a canoe to finish my work among
those who have not been abused by Ujijians
and still retain their natural kindliness of
5disposition None of the people are ferocious
without cause, and the sore experience which
they gain from slaves with guns in their hands
usually ends in sullen hatred of all strangers
the education of the world is a terrible one
10and it has come down with relentless rigour
on Africa from the most remote times - What
the African will become after the awfully hard
lesson is learned is among the future devel
opments of Providence - When He who is
15higher than the highest accomplishes his purposes
This will be a wonderful country and again
something like what it was of old - When Zerah
and Tirhaka flourished & were great
XXXVI
The soil of Manyema is clayey and XXXVI remarkably
fertile - The maize sown for it rushes up to seed
and everything is in rank profusion if only it
be kept clear of weeds - Bambarre people
5are indifferent cultivators planting maize
Bananas & plantains and groundnuts only
No dura a little cassava - no perisetum
or meleda - pumpkins melons Nyumbo
though they all flourish in other districts
10a few sweet potatoes appear but elsewhere
all these nature grains and roots are abundant
and cheap - No one would choose this as a
residence except for the sake of Moenekuss &
The people are honest never steal though
15stolen from by our people as Simon and
Amoda of my party and others of Muhamad's
XXXVII
XXXVII Oil is very dear while at Lualaba a 11
gallon may be got for a single string of beads and beans
ground nuts - cassava maize plantains in rank
profusion The Balegga like the Bambarre people
5trust chiefly to Plantains and ground nuts -
To play with parrots is their great amusement -
13th Novr 1870 - The men sent over to Lohombo
about 30 miles off got two and a half loads of
dura for a small goat - but the people were
10unwilling to trade - "If we encourage Arabs
to trade they will come and kill us with their guns"
so they said and it is true - The slaves are overbearing
and when this is resented then slaughter ensues.
Got some sweet plaintains and a little oil
15which is useful in cooking and with salt as butter
on bread - but all were unwilling to trade -
Monangoi was over near Lohombo and heard of a
large trading party coming and not far off, This may be
Syde & Dugumbe but reports are often false
XXXVIII
XXXVIII When Katomba's men were on the late foray
they were completely overpowered & compelled by the Man
-yema to lay down their guns and powder horns on
pain of being instantly despatched by bowshot - they were
5mostly slaves who could only draw the trigger & make
a noise Katomba had to rouse and all the Arabs
who could shoot and when they came they killed many
and gained the lost day - The Manyema did not
kill anyone who laid down his gun & powder horn
10This is the beginning of an end which was easily
percieved when it became not a trading but a
murdering horde of savages and when wherever
invited by old feuds in order to get goats
and then sell the captives back for ten goats each
15Buceros cristata - screams & picks at his
tail till he discharges the contents of his bowel Then
leaves him - It is called "play" by the natives and
in the Suaheli "Utane" or
XXXIX
XXXIX Msaha - fun or wit. He follows other birds in the same 12
merciless way - screaming & pecking to produce purging
Manyema call it "Mambambwa" - The Buffalo bird
warns its big friend of danger - calling Chāchāchā
5Rhinocers birds calls out Tyetyetye tye for
same purpose - Manyema call Buffalo bird
"Mojela" Suahel "Chassa"
a climbing plant is known in Africa as
ntulung--ope
which mixed with flour of dura kills mice -
10They swarm in our camp and destroy everything
but Ntulungope is not near this
The foray above mentioned was undertaken by
Katomba for twenty goats from Kassessa!
15Ten men lost for twenty goats but they will think
twice before they try another foray
one dollar a day is ample for provisions for a
large family at Zanzibar - What nice flesh of
20goats or ox fowls - bananas milk butter - sugar eggs
bazarre mangoes - potatoes
XL
XL. Ambergris is boiled in milk and sugar
and used by the Hindoos as a means of increasing
blood in their systems - a small quantity is a dose
Ambergris is found along the shore of the sea at
5Barawa or Brava and at Madagascar
as if the sperm whate Changoi got rid of it
while alive - Lamos or Amu is wealthy
and well supplied with everything as grapes
peaches wheat cattle camels &c - The trade
10is chiefly with Madagascar - The houses are
richly furnished with furniture dishes from
India - At Garaganza there are hundreds of
Arab traders there too all fruits abound
and the climate is healthy - from its elevation
15Why cannot we missionaries imitate these
Arabs in living on heights?
XLI
XLI Copy
Manyuema country 180 miles say 13
West of Ujiji 15 Nov
1870
5The Right Honourable Lord Stanley
My Lord As soon as I recovered suffi
-ciently to be able to march from Ujiji I went
up Tanganyika about 60 miles and thence
struck away N W into the country of the Manyuema
10or Manyema - the reputed cannibals - My object
was to follow down the central line of drainage
of the great Nile valley which I had seen passing
through the great Lake Bangweolo and changing
its name from Chambeze to Luapula - then on
15passing through Lake Moero assuming the name
Lualaba and becoming itself a great Riverein
Lake at first eight to ten miles broad with several
inhabited islands in it, and then holding a breadth
of from two to six miles as far as it is known
20I soon found myself in the large bend which this
great Lacustrine River makes by going West and
XLII
XLII then turning away to the North - Two hours were the
utmost I could accomplish in a day, but by persever
ing I gained strength and came up with the trading party
of Muhamad Bogharib who by native medicines and
5carrying me saved my life in my late severe illness
in Marungu Two days before we arrived at
Bambarre the residence of the most influential
Manyema chief called Moenekuss we met a
band of Ujijian traders carrying 18000 lbs
10weight of ivory bought in this new field for a
mere trifle in t{h}hick copper bracelets and beads
The traders had been obliged to employ their slaves
to collect the ivory and slaves with guns in their
hands are often no better than Demons - We
15heard but one side of the story - The slave version
and such as would have appeared in the Newspaper
if they had one - "The Manyema were bad
- they were always in the wrong - wanted to eat the
slaves and always gave them just occasion to capture
20people goats sheep fowls and grain -
XLIII
XLIII The masters did not quite approve of this but the 14
deeds were done and then masters and men joined in
one chorus "The Manyema are bad bad bad very
bad" - In going West of Bambarre I followed the
5Luamo a river of from 100 to 250 yards broad
which rises in the mountains opposite Ujiji and
flows across the great bend when near its
confluence I was among people who had been
maltreated by the slaves and they naturally looked
10on one as if of the same tribe with their persecutors
Africans are not unreasonable though though
smarting under wrongs if you can fairly make
them understand your claim to innocence and
do not appear as having your "back up" The
15women here were particularly outspoken in asserting
our identity with the cr{ue}uel strangers - on calling to
one vociferous lady who gave me the head traders
name, just to look if he and I were of the same
colour she refused with a bitter little laugh "Then you
20must be his brother" The worst the men did
XLIV
to XLIV to us was to turn out in force armed
with their large spears & wooden shields and shew
us out of their districts - Glad that no collision
took place we {returned}returned to Bambarre and then
5with our {friend}friend Muhamad struck away due
North he to buy ivory and I to reach
another part of the Lualaba and buy a canoe -
The country is extremely beautiful but difficult
to travel over The mountains of light grey
10granite stand like islands in Now Red
sandstone and mountain and valley are all
clad in a mantle of different shades of green
The vegetation is indescribably rank through
the grass if grass it can be called which is over
15half an inch in diameter in the stalk and from
ten to twelve feet high nothing but elephants
can walk The leaves of this Megatherium
grass are armed with minute spikes which as
we worm our way along elephants walks rub
20disagreably on the side of the face where the
XLV
XLV the gun is held and the hand is made sore by 15
fending it off for hours the other side for hours - The Rains
were fairly set in by November and in the morning
or after a shower these leaves were loaded with
5moisture which wet us {to}to {the}the bone - The valleys are
deeply undulating and in each innumerable
dells have to be crossed There may be only a
thread of water on the bottom but the mud mire
or Scotticé "glaur" is grievous - thirty or
10forty yards of the path on each side of the
stream are worked by the feet of passengers
into an adhesive {compound}compound - By placing
a foot on each side of the narrow footway one
may waddle a little way along but the rank
15crop of grass gingers & bushes cannot spare
the few inches required for the side of the foot and
{down}down he comes into the mire - The path often runs
along the {bed}bed of the rivulet for 60 or more yards
XLVI
XLVI as if he who first cut it out went that distance
seek{ing}ing a part of the {forest}forest less dense than the rest
for his axe In other cases the "Muale palm"
from which here as in Madagascar grass cloth is
5woven and called by the same name "Lamba"
has taken possession of a valley - the leaf stalks
as thick as a {s}strong mans arm fall off
and block up all passage save by a path
made and mixed up by the feet of elephants
10and buffaloes The slough therein is groan
compelling and deep Every now & then the
traders with rueful {faces}faces stand panting
The sweat trickles down my face, and I
suppose I look as grim as they though I
15express a hope that good prices will reward
them for as the coast for ivory obtained with
so much toil - In some cases the subsoil
has given way beneath the elephants enormous
weight - The hole is filled with mud and one
20taking it all to be about calf deep
XLVII
XLVII steps in to the top of the thigh and {flaps}flaps on to a 16
seat, soft enough, but not luxurious - a merry laugh
relaxes the facial muscles and I conjecture that this
gruesome fun is all I shall ever get for the explorations
5Some of the {numerous}numerous {rivers}rivers which in this
region flow into Lualaba are covered with
living vegetable bridges - a species of dark
{glossy}glossy grass with its roots and leaves is
the chief agent in felting into a mat that covers
10the {whole}whole stream When stepped upon it yields
twelve or fifteen inches and that amount of
water {rises}rises on the leg - At every step the foot
has to be lifted high enough to place it on the
unbent mass in front and this fatigues
15like walking on deep snow - Here & there
holes appear which we could not sound with
a stick six feet long - They gave the impression
that any where one might plump through
and finish the chapter - Where the water is
XLVIII
XVLVIII is {sha}shallow The Lotus or sacred Lilly
sends it roots to the bottom and spreads it broad
leaves over the floating bridge so as to make believe
that the mat is its crown but the grass referred to
5is the real supporting agent -
Between each district of Manyema broad
belts of the primeval forest still stand - Into
these the sun though vertical cannot pene-
trate except by sending down ^ at Midday thin pencils
10of rays into the gloom - The rain water
stands for months in stagnant pools
made by elephants feet and the dead leaves
decay on the damp soil and make the
water of the numerous rills & rivulets of the
15colour of strong tea - The climbing plants
from the size of {whip}whipcord to that of a man
of wars haw{sers}sers are so many the ancient
path is the only passage When one of the giant
trees falls across the road it {makes}makes a {wall}wall
XLIX
XLIX breast high to be climbed over - and the mass 17
of tangled climbers brought down makes cutting a
path round it a work of time which travellers never
undertake The shelter from the sun of the Forest
5makes it pleasant but the roots of trees high out
of the soil across the path keep the eyes constantly
looking down and a good shot gun does no
harm to parrots or quince fowls on their
tops - I have heard gorillahs here called Sokos
10prowling within fifty yards without getting a
glimpse of them - Their call to each other resem
bles that of a Tom cat not so loud or far
reaching as that of the peacocks - When in flight
they give tongue not unlike fox hounds - His
15nest is a poor contrivance resembling that
of our cushat dove Here he sits in pelting rain
with his hands on his head - The natives call it
his house and laugh at him for being such a
fool as after building it not to go beneath it
20for shelter - Bad water and frequent wettings
L
L. told on us all by choleraic symptoms & loss
of flesh - Meanwhile the news of cheap ivory
caused a sort Californian gold fever at Ujiji
It prevented me from getting any carriers save
5the worthless liberated slaves who by thieving
lying and fornicationcowardice have been a perpetual
annoyance during all this Journey - The
traders eager to secure all the Pagazi or
carriers spread the report that I would go
10away to my own country and leave them as
Speke did his as Suez - We were now
overtaken by a horde ^ from Ujiji numbering 600 muskets
all eager for ivory The elephant tusks had
been left to rot with the other bones in the
15interminable forests where the animals were
killed - The natives knew where they had been
left and if treated civilly readily brought the
precious teeth many half rotten or gnawed
LI
LI by the teeth of a rodent animal to sharpen his 18
teeth as London rats do on leaden pipes - I had already
in this Journey two severe lessons that travelling
in an unhealthy climate in the rainy season
5was killing work and besides being unwilling
to bear company with the new comers I feared
that any present weakness ^ by further exposure might result in
something worse went back seven days
and on the 7th February last went into winter
10quarters at a camp formed by the heads of
men as civil and kind as I could wish - a
letter obtained from the Sultan of Zanzibar
through the kind offices of Sir Bartle Frere
has been of immense service to me with most
15of his subjects - I had no medicine - some though
sent for twice had been unaccountably detained
at Unyembe by the Arab Lewale or governor
Two English guns in the box are surely not
LII
LII. not too much for his virtue - Rest - boiling
all the water {figure} I used and a new species of potato
famed among the natives as a restorative soon
put me to rights again The rains continued
5into July and 58 inches fell The mud from
the clayey soil was awful and laid up some
of the strongest in spite of their intense eagerness
for ivory I lost no time after it was feasible
to travel in preparing to go North but my
10attendants were fed and lodged by the slave
women whose husbands were away from
the camp on trade and pretended to fear going
into a canoe I consented to refrain from
buying one - They then feared the people though
15the inhabitants were reported by the slaves
to be remarkably frienvly elsewhere I could
get the country people to carry from village
to village and was comparatively independent
LIII
LIII. when as happened with some they deserted 19
into the arms of prostitutes six times over - But in
Manyema no one can be induced to go into the
next district for fear they say of being killed &
5eaten - I was at their mercy and entreaty was
answered by calling when out of sight "who
will carry his things" and a loud laugh to make
me hear - The head Arabs remonstrated
and they literally trembled and consented to go
10anywhere but on find that no compulsion
was to be used refused again - When I had
gone with my only three attendants I could not
regret the absence of the rest for three of them
had previously gone unknown to me to
15a slave war and came back boasting that
they had killed four of the people whose kindness
to us had touched my heart and nothing could
exceed the eagerness with which uninvited
they ran off to help to enslave their countrymen
LIV
LIV nothing but danger would have
deterred them from slavehunting and
here there is none for the report of gun makes
the Manyema flee in terror On no account
5would I have brought them here but I suspected
that my letters to the coast for other men
had been destroyed and I had a sore longing
to finish my work and retire - The country
to the North is even more difficult than that
10I have described for except a broad belt of
Buga or Prairies along the right bank of
the Lualaba it is all forest saving the clearing
round each village - and these are ten miles
apart - The rivers and rivulets are innumer
15able I crossed fourteen in one day from
knee to thigh deep - Muhamads party was
five hours in crossing one in flood - a man
in a small canoe went sounding among
LV [v.1]
LV. 20 the trees to find where it was breast
deep In another case they were two hours in a river
from breast to neck deep and they saw
nothing but gloomy forest - though they went
5near to what the Balegga call uerere or lower
Tanganyika named by its discoverer Albert
Nyanza For the first time in my life my
feet failed - When torn by rough travel
instead of healing kindly as heretofore an
10irritable eating ulcer fastened on each foot
and laid me up for five months - these are
common here and slaves whose wailing
may be heard the whol[ ] night long are
often killed by them - I have been minute
15even to triviality that your Lordship may have
some idea of the obstacles to progress in this
region exploration is only possible by canoes
and as soon as I get men who have been
taught to work four or five months will
[LV v.2]
[LV] finish all I have to do - What remains
to be accomplished may be understood
by the following -
[ ]
LVI
LVI continuation of a Despatch to Lord Stanley 21
This great Lacustrine river which I call
Webb's Lualaba is only one of {three}three each of
which {having}having th{e}e {same}same native {name}name {requires}requires
5 [#] an {English}English {epithet}epithet to dis{ting}tinguish it The
{river}river Lufira {rises}rises in a fount{ain}ain South
West of this which {I}I would fain {call}call Bartle
Frere's fountain and {th}th[ ] When it becomes
very large it is called Lualaba West of this one
10{again}again another great {river}river beg{ins}ins {in}in {a}a fountain
and from {its}its {source}source down {its}its {only}only native
name is Lualaba - I wish to add Young's
Youngs Lualaba and Bartle Frere's Lualaba
unite and form a Lake the native name of
15which is Chibungo but I am fain to call it
Lake Lincoln - Looking back from this to the
full {grown}grown gushing fountains not more
LVII
LVII {more}more than {ten}ten miles apart The
largest of these fountains at which a man
cannot be seen on the other side is the source
of the Liambai or upper Zambesi this
5I name after good Lord Palmerston
Near it rises the Lunga which further
down is called Luenge and still further
off Kafue or Kafuge - I would name it
Oswell Fountain These four fountains
10gushing forth so near to each other
and forming great rivers are probably the
unfathomable springs of the Nile men
-tioned to Herodotus by the secretaryretary of
Minerva in the citycity of SaisSais fromfrom which
LVIII
LVIII [ ] half the water flowed" = from Youngs and 22
Bartle Frere's fountains = "Northward into
Egypt" - and the other half = "from Palmerstons
and Oswell fountains = "into Inner Ethiopia"
5I heard of this remarkable mound & fountains
some 200 miles distant on the South West - again
on the South East 150 miles off - again on
the North East 180 miles distant and
now on the N.N.E. many intelligent
10Arabs who have visited the spot give the
very same information as having excited
their admiration as much as it that of
the natives - I have ventured to give name by
anticipation - I shall write no [ ]{other} letter
15till I have either succeeded or fallen - The
names of Palmerston Lincoln & Frere I wish
to honour as of men who have done more
LIX
LIX for the abolition of the slave trade & slavery
than any of their cotemporaries - The great and
good man Palmerston and Lincoln are no
longer among us, and I desire to place, as it were
5my poor little garland of love on their tombs.
By degrees the conviction has crept across
my mind that all we moderns can fairly do in
in common modesty claim is is the rediscovery
of the sources of the Nile which had sunk into
10oblivion somewhat like the circumnavigation
of Africa by the Phoenician Admiral of one
of the Pharoahs about B C 600 He
was not believed because he reported
having the sun on his right hand in
15passing round Libya This stamps the tale
of the Admiral to us as genuine By placing
the fountains of the river of Egypt between
10°-12° South Lat. Ptolemy [ ] genuine
LX
LX geography from men who had visited this very 23
region By making the water collect into two or
three large Lacustrine rivers - Extant speci-
-mens of those which in prehistoric times
5abounded in Africa and in the south are still
called "melapo" - in the North Wady's both
words meaning the same thing = river beds
where no water ever now flows, he did
what no mere theorist would dream of doing
10Ptolemys predecessors were probably the real
collectors of the facts he made use of and the
former explorers must have travelled extensively
Had I left at the end of two years I could have
given little more light on the country than the
15Portuguese who in their three slaving visits
to Cazembe asked for slaves & ivory alone
and heard of nothing else - I enquired about the
waters till ashamed and almost afraid of being
put down as affected with Hydrocephalus - I had
20to feel my way and every step of the way, and
LXI
LXI was generally groping in the dark for who cared
were the rivers ran - Many a wary foot I trod ere
I gained a clear idea of the drainage which flows
from the watershed in 10°12° South on which stand
5Ptolemys mountains of the moon - The length of
this watershed is between 700 & 800 miles from
West to East - Here the fountains of the Nile do
unquestionably arise - The mountains on it
are between 600 & 700 feet above the sea
10The idea of melting snow is if I remember
rightly is not Ptolemy's Kenia & Kilimanjaro
are said to be snow capped but no one
ever reached the snow - They send no water to
any part of the Nile and never could have
15been meant by the correct ancient explorers
I would fain crave your Lordships approboation
of my labours but the supernumerary undersecretary
Murrays impertinent letter forbids any Govt
from allowing me any claim no matter what
20services I may render David Livingstone
LXII
LXII 22nd Novr 1870 copied foregoing despatch - It
will be delivered by Muhammad Bogharib into the consul's
hands at Zanzibar
24th Novr Herpes is common at the plantations
5in Zanzibar but the close crowding of the houses
in the town they think prevents it. The lips &
mouth are affected & constipation sets in for 3
days - cured by going over to mainland
Affections of the lungs are cured by residence at
10Bariva or Brava and also on mainland
the Safari of Halzani took my letters from
Ujiji but person employed I do not know
25th Nov wrote to Tom Agnes - Young - Webb
Oswell Dr Hamilton Sir Roderick Sir Bartle Frere -
15Tracey - Stearns of Bombay - Maclear = Bleek
Brother John in Canada = Letters to be delivered
by Muhammad Bogharib into Col Playfair or Dr Kirk's
own hands at Zanzibar - Lt Kinnaird & B Braithwaite
LXIII
LXIII 29th Novr 1870 Safura is the name of the
disease clay or earth eating at Zanzibar = It often
affects slaves and the clay is said to have a pleasant
odour to the eaters, but it is not confined to slaves
5nor do slaves eat in order to kill themselves - It is
a diseased appetite and sick men who have plenty
to eat are often subject to it - The feet swell
flesh is lost - and the face looks haggard - The
patient can scarcely walk for shortness of breath
10and weakness and he continues eating till he
dies = Here many slaves are now diseased with
safura The clay built in walls is preferred and
Manyema women when pregnant often eat it.
The cure is effected by drastic purges for seven
15days and nothing of ^ fish butter - milk or beef must
enter his mouth for three{two} years after it -- old
vinegar or cocoa trees put into a large bason &
old slag made red hot cast into it - Then "Mbuye ^ asofoetida"
1/2 a rupee in weight - . copperas sulph Do
20a small glass of this fasting morning & evening
LXIV
LXIV produces vomiting & purging of black dejections -
This is continued for seven days - no meat eaten but
only old rice or dura & water - a fowl in course of time
no ^ fish butter eggs or beef for two years on pain of death
5Muhamad's father had skill in the cure and the
above is his prescription - Safura is thus a
disease per se - It is common in Manyema &
makes me in a measure content to wait for
my medicines - from the description inspiss-
10ated bile seems to be the agent of blocking up the
gall duct and duodenum and the clay [ ]{or} earth
may be nature trying to clean it away - the
clay appears unchanged in the stools and in
large quantity a Banyamwezi carrier who
15bore an enormous load of copper is now by Safura
scarcely able to walk - He took it at Lualaba where
food is abundant & he is contented with his lot -
squeeze a fingernail & if no blood appears beneath it
Safura is the cause of the bloodlessness -
LXV
LXV a dread of encountering this disease without any
any medicine reconciles me partially to this detention
2 Decr 1870 Sokos collect together and make a drumming
5noise some say with hollow trees then burst forth
into loud yells well imitated by the natives - If a man
has no spear Sokos goes away satisfied - If
wounded he siezes the wrist lops off ends of the
fingers and spits them out - slaps the cheeks
10of his victim and bites without breaking the
skin - draws out a spear but never uses
it - takes some leaves and stuffs them into
his wound to stanch the blood = Does not
wish an encounter with an armed man = He
15sees women do him no harm & never molests them
a man without a spear is nearly safe from him
They beat hollow trees as drums with hands
and then scream as music to it. When men
hear them they go to Sokos but Sokos never
20goes to men with hostility - Manyema say "Sokos
is a man" "& nothing bad in him" a Soko was killed
near this with holes in his ears - He had died a man & risen a Soko
LXVI
LXVI. opinion and facts - 2 Rhinoceroses scary
chivalry - Helmore found by Baldwin starving no
hunter - no horses no medical man - Sekeletu
blamed though he got not £8000 to place him
5on Healthy Highlands and I was accused as
morally guilty of his death though no letter was
sent to me - saying he had come ^ or gone to Linyanti
Bishop addressed no teaching - Makololo
followed me and I was blamed because they
10vitialed all the teaching - then being none as
2nd Bishop said to me an astounding fact
that people living with them have been taught
absolutely nothing - Idleness was the bane of
that mission and then loitering in the swamps
15killed them - I bore the accusations in
silence - I felt that so to do was chivalrous -
Loss of heat or presence of mind - Absalom
Saul -
6th Decr 1870 oh for Dugumbe or Syde. !! to come
20but this delay may all be for the best.
LXVII
LXVII. The Parrots all seize their food & hold it with the
left hand - the Lion too is left handed - He strikes with
his left - so are all animals - left handed save man.
5I noticed a very pretty woman come on marriage with Mona
mosimba past this quite jauntily about a month ago
ten goats were given - Her friends came and asked
another goat which being refused she was enticed away
became sick of Rheumatic Fever two days afterward
10and died yesterday - not a syllable of regret for the
beautiful young creature but for the goats "Oh"
"our ten goats" they cannot grieve too much - "Our"
ten goats! Oh Oh"!
Basang wail over those who die in bed but not
15over those who die in battle = The cattle are a salve
for all sores - women even raise no wailing
Another man killed in a village within ^ ½ miles sight
of this - They quarrelled and there is virtually no
chief - the man was stabbed and village burned and
20people all fled - They are truly a bloody people -
LXVIII
LXVIII Sokos live in communities of about ten each having his
own female - an intruder from another camp is beaten off with
their fists and loud yells - If one tries to seize the female of another
he is [ ] caught on the ground and all unite in boxing &
5biting the offender - a male often carries a child
especially if they are passing from one patch of forest
to another over a grassy space - He then gives it to the
mother
a man died near this Monasimba went to
10his wife and after intercourse and washing he
may appear among men - If no widow
can be obtained he must sit naked behind
his house till some one happens to die - all the
lowest of the low - and especially in bloodiness
15the man who killed a woman without cause
goes free - He offered his grandmother to be
killed in his stead and after a great deal of talk
nothing was done to him - !
LXIX
LXIX 8 Decr 1870 - Suleiman bin Juma lived on the
mainland ^ Mosessane opposite Zanzibar - It is impossible to deny his
power of foresight except by rejecting all evidence - He
frequently foretold the deaths of great men among Arabs
5and he was preeminently a good man upright & sincere
"shirti" none like him now for goodness or
skill - He said that two middle sized white
men with straight noses & flowing hair down to
the girdle behind came at times & told him things
10to come - He died ^ 12 years ago lately & left no successors
told his own disease three days beforehand
by cholera
Heresi a ball of hair rolled in stomach of a
lion is a grand charm to the animal & to
15Arabs - Muhammad has one
10th Decr I am sorely let and hindered in this
Manyema - Rain every day and often at night
I could not travel now even if I had men but
20I could make some progress - this is the sorest delay
I ever had - I look above for help & mercy
LXX
LXX. Lions fat is regarded as a sure preventative of [24]
Tsetse or Bungo - This was noted before but I add now
that it is smeared on the ox tail - preserves hundreds of the
Banyamwesi cattle in safely while going to the Coast -
5It is also used to keep [ ] pigs and Hippopotami
away from gardens - - The smell is probably
the efficacious part in Heresi
12 Decr It may all be for the best that I am so
10hindered and compelled to inactivity - advance
to Lohombo was the furthest point of traders
for many a day - slaves returning with ivory
were speared mercilessly by Manyema because
they did not know guns could kill & their
15spears could - Katomba coming to Moenekuss
was a great feat three or four years ago
Then Dugumbe went on to Lualaba and fought his
way - So I may be restrained now in mercy
till men come - those I had were not men nor
20yet slaves - Hybrids between bond & free so petted
& coddled as to think the English feared them
LXXI
LXXI The Neggeri an African animal attacks the
testicles of man and beast - cuts them off and retires
contented - Buffaloes are often castrated by him -
Men who know it squat down & kill him with knife
5or gun - Lions fear him{the} Zibu or Ratel
Zibu or Mbuidé flies at the tendo achilles =
Ratel? - Fisi ea Baharai probably the seal
is abundant in the seas but the Ratel or badger
probably furnished the skins for the Tabernacle
10Bees die or escape from his droppings
or urine and he eats the honey in safety -
Lions & all other animals fear his attacks of the heel
about 25 to a measure
the Babemba mix a handful of castor oil seeds with
15the dura ^ and they pou{gri}nd Meleza = usages makes them like it
is not perceptible in porridge
The nauseous taste and the oil is needed where so
much farinaceous or starchy matter exists and
the bowels are regulated by the mixture
20experience ^ has taught them the need of a fatty ingredient
Moamba - Chassa - brother of Do Chambeze = other brother of
Chassa - Do in way - Moenewifa large country - Komanga
and 6 days to Barari thence
LXXII
LXXII. Goambari is a prisoner at Merere's guarded [25]
by a thousand or more men to prevent him intriguing with
Monyungo who is known as bloodthirsty - In the third
generation charura's descendants numbered sixty
5able bodied spearmen - Garahenga ^ or Kimamure killed many of
them - charura had six white attendants with
him but all died before he did and on becoming
chief he got all his predecessors wives - Merere
is the son of a woman of the royal stock and of a
10common man - Hence he is a shade or two
darker than Charura's descendants who are very
light coloured and have straight noses - They
shave the head and straight hair is all cut off -
they drink much milk warm from the teats of the
15cows and think that it is strengthening by its heat.
The descent is 1 Charura - 2 Mokasi - 3 Moenye-
gumbe = 4 Mamerere = Merere = Mogandira son of 3
died after one years rule - Kimamure a coward followed
2nd son of 3 made Merere general = Goambari called
20Monyungo to first Merere - Kimamure or otherwise Garahen
ga killed many by Merere's hand - calls himself his slave
but rules him and all besides
LXXIII
LXXIII Decr 23d 1870 - Bambarre people suffer hunger now
because they will not plant cassava - This trading party eats all
the maize and sends to a distance for more - Manyema buy from
them with malofu or Palm toddy - Rice all coming into ear
5but Manyema planted more Maize ripening - mice a pest
a strong man among Manyema does as he pleases &
no chief inteferes - a man's wife of ten goats was
given off to a Mene man and his child now grown
is given away too - comes to Muhamad for redress
10Two Elephants killed were very large but have
small tusks - They come from South in the rains
All animals as elephants buffaloes - zebras
are very large in Basango country - tusks full
in the hollows weigh very heavy - animals fat
15& good in flesh Eleven goats for the flesh
24th Between 25 and 30 slaves have died in the present
epidemic - also many Manyema - Two yesterday at
Kandawara - The feet swell then the hands and
face and in a day or two they drop dead - It came
20from the East and is very fatal - few escape who take
it.
LXXIV
LXXIV. a woman was accused of stealing maize - the ch[ ] 26
here sent all his people yesterday - plundered all she had in [ ]
house and garden and brought her husband bound in
thongs till he shall pay a goat -- She is said to be inn[ ]
5Monangoi does this by fear of the traders here an[ ]
as the people tell him as soon as they are gone th[ ]
vengeance he is earning by injustice on all sides
will be taken - I told the chief that his head would
be as also Kasessa's.
10Three men went from Katomba to Kasongo's to
buy viramba - a man was speared belonging to
Kasongo - these three then fired into a mass of
men who collected one killed two another three & so on
So now that place is shut up from traders -
15and all this country will be so as soon as the
Manyema learn that guns are limited in their power
of killing and especially in the hands of slaves who
cannot shoot but only make a noise - These Suaheli
are the most cruel and bloodthirsty missionaries in
20existence and withal so impure in talk & acts - spreading
syphilis Buboes & chancres - The Lord sees it.
LXXV
LXXV 28 Decr 1870 Moenembag the most intelligent of the
two sons of Moenekus in power told us that a man was
killed & eaten a few miles from this yesterday - Hunger the reason
assigned = on speaking of tainted meat he said that the Manyema
5put meat in water two days to make it putrid & smell high = The
love of high meat is the only reason I know for their cannibalism
but the practice is now hidden on account of the disgust that
the traders expressed against open man eating when they
first arrived - Lightning very near us last night - The
10Manyema say that when it is so loud fishes of large
size fall with it - an opinion shared in with them
by the Arabs = But the large fish is the clarias capensis
of Smith and it is often seen migrating in single file
along the wet grass for miles - It is probably this
15that the Manyema think falls from lightning.
30th Rain daily - a woman murdered without cause
close by the camp - murderer said she is a witch & speare[ ]
her - body exposed till affair is settled probably by fine of g[ ]
the Manyema are the most bloody callous savages I
20know - one puts a scarlet feather on ground and challeng[ ]
those near to stick it in the hair - He who does so must kill a
man or woman - and so none dare wear skin of musk ca[ ]
Ngawa unless he has murdered - guns alone prevent them
from killing us all - and for no reason either.
LXXVI [v.1]
LXXVI 16th January 1871 Ramadan ended last [4]
night and it is probable my people & others from the
cohort will begin to travel {#} after three days of feasting
It has been so rainy I could have been done little though
5I had had {#} people {#} {#}
22nd a party reported to be in the way hither - This
is likely enough - {#}but reports are so often false doubts
arise - Muhamad says he will give men when the
party of Hassa ni comes or when Dugumbe
10arrives My Nassickers cooly assert
that they did not desert after this
it will be im- possible to take the
ringleaders{#} but some
will believe{#} them as for
15instance Mr Tozer & Co
{figure}
[LXXVI v.2]
7
[ ]
{figure}
There is no desert in all the
5country said to be travelled over
It is every where fertile & covered
with rank vegetation = this is the
most unlikely part of the tale
LXXVIII
LXXVIII 24th January 1871 - Muhamad mentioned [27]
this morning that Moenemokaia & Moeneghere his
brother brought about thirty slaves from Katanga
to Ujiji affected with swelled Thyroid glands
5or Goitre and that drinking the water of Tang-
anyika proved a perfect cure to all in a very
few days. Sometimes the swelling went
down in two days after they began to use the
water in their ordinary way of cooking washing
10and drinking - Possibly some ingredient of
the hot fountain that flows into it - for the
people on the Lofubu in Isana's country had
the swelling - Shut in bays were decidedly
brackish while the body of Tanganyika was
15quite fresh -
The odour of putrid elephant's meat in a house kills
parrots - The Manyema keep it till quite rotten
but know its fatal effects on their favorite
birds
LXXIX
LXXIX. 28th January 1871 - a safari under Hassani
and Ebed arrived with news of great mortality
by cholera (Towny) at Zanzibar - and my "brother"
who I conjecture to be Dr Kirk has fallen - The men
5I wrote for have come to Ujiji but did not know
my whereabouts - When told by Katomba's men
they will come here - and bring my much longed
for letters & goods - 70,000 thousand victims in
Zanzibar alone! and it spread inland to the
10Masai and Ugogo - cattle shivered and fell dead
the fishes in the sea died in great numbers. Here
the fowls were first seized and died and then men -
thirty perished in our small camp made still
smaller by all the able men being off trading at the
15Metamba and how many Manyema died we
dont know - The survivors became afraid of
eating the dead - Formerly the pest kept along
the sea shore now it goes far inland and will
spread all over Africa - This we get from Mecca
20filth - nothing was done to prevent the place being
made a perfect cesspool of animals guts & ordure of men
LXXX
LXXX -- a piece of skin bound round chest of an arm & half of 28
it hanging down prevents waste of his strength and he
forgets and fattens ----
Abed's party bring 200 Frasilahs of all sorts of beads &
5They will cross Lualaba & open a new field in the
other or Young's Lualaba - all central Africa {figure}
will soon be known - The evils inflicted by
these Arabs are enormous but probably not greater
than the people inflict on each other -----
10Merere has turned against the Arabs and killed one
robbing several others of all they had though he has
ivory sufficient to send down 7000 lbs of ivory to the
coast and recieve loads of goods for 500 men - He
looks as if insane & probably is so - He will soon be
15killed - His insanity may be the effect of Pombe of
which he drinks largely - and his people may have
told him that the Arabs were plotting with Goambari
He restored Muhamad's ivory and slaves and sent for
the other traders who had fled - said his people had
20 spoken badly and he would repay all losses -
LXXXI
LXXXI Two young elephants were sent by Mteza to
Seyed Majid by was of the Lewale - Watuta came stealing
Banyamwezi cattle & Mteza's men went out to them
and twenty two were killed The Lewale's people did nothing
5The Governor's sole anxiety is to obtain ivory and no
aid is rendered to the traders Seyed Suleiman the wanzeer
is the author of the do nothing policy - Sent away all the
Sepoys as too expensive an old man & avaricious
The [ ]Bagogo plunder traders unchecked = one of the
10young elephants died in the way to the coast - It is
reported that Egyptian turks came up & attacked
Mteza but lost many people and fled - A Moslem
mission to Mteza was a falsehood though the
details given were circumstantial - Falsehood
15is so common one can believe nothing the Arabs
say unless confirmed of other evidence - They are
followers of the Prince of lies Muhamad - His cool
appropriation of the knowledge gained at Damascus
and from the Jews is perfectly disgusting - All his
20deeds were done when unseen by any witnesses
LXXXII
LXXXII. It is worth noticing that all admit the decadence 29
of the Moslem power and they ask how it is fallen -
they seem sincere in their devotions & reading the Koran
but its meaning is comparatively hid from most of the
5Suaheli - the Persian Arabs are said to be gross
idolators and awfully impure - Earth from a grave
at Kurbelosi's put in the turban and worshipped - some of the
sects wont say "Amen"!
Moenyegumbe never drank more than a mouthful
10of pombe - He said the wisdom of a chief is dangerous
He kills people and it ought never to be excited by beer -
When young he could make his spear pass right through
[ ]n elephant and stick in the ground on the other side -
He was a large man and all his members were largely
15developed - hands fingers all in proportion to his great
height - lived to old age with strength unimpaired --
Goambari inherits his white colour and sharp nose =
but not his wisdom or courage - Merere killed five of his
own people for exciting him "against the Arabs -" the
20half caste is the murderer of many of charura's
descendants - His father got a [ ] ^ daughter of Moenyegumbe
for courage in fighting the Babena of Ubena
LXXXIII
LXXXIII. my long detention in Manyema leads me to
believe that they are truly a bloody people - cold blooded
murders are frightfully common and they say that but for
our presence they would ^ be still more frequent - They have no
5fear of spears and shields - guns alone frighten them - they
tell us frankly and quite truly that but for our firearms not
one of us should even return to his country - some kill
in order to be allowed to wear the red tail feathers of a
parrot in their hair - and they are not ugly like the West
10coast negroes many men have as finely formed heads as
would be found in London - We English if naked would
make but a poor figure beside the strapping forms and
finely shaped limbs of Manyema men & women - their
cannibalism is doubtful but my observations raise
15grave suspicions a Scotch jury would say "not proven"
The women are not guilty -
The cholera came along the seashore from Mecca but
this year it came inland and made great havoc - Goats
and fowls died not by the pest but by its companion
20[ ] cattle shivered and fell dead - about 30 people died in
our small camp and how many Manyema we dont know
Letters from Mecca told of its coming from that focus
of filth but ta{h}e rest of the world must do nothing for
political economy says we must not interfere
LXXXIV
LXXXIV - 4th February 1871 - Ten of my men from 30 the
coast have come near to Bambarre and will arrive today
I am extremely thankful to hear it for it assures me
that my packet of letters was not destroyed - they know
5at home by this time what has detained me and the
end to which I strain
Do only one letter reached and 40 are missing - James
was killed today by an arrow - the assassin was hid
in the forest till my men going to buy food came
10up - I propose to leave on the 12th I have
sent Dr Kirk a cheque for Rs 4000 Four thous-
-and - Great havoc was made by cholera and
in the midst of it my friend exerted himself
greatly to get men off to me with goods - First
15gang of porters all died. When they came to Ujiji
Sherreef the head man stopped wth four and
is now feasting & drinking on my goods though
he knows me to be here -
8th The ten men refusing to go North influenced
20probably be Shereef & my two ringleaders who
# try this means to compel me to take them
LXXXV
LXXXV 9th February 1871 - the man who contrived the
murder of James came here drawn by the pretence that he
was needed to lead a party against the villages which he
led to commit the outrage - His thirst for blood is awful
5He was bound & word sent to bring the actual murders within
3 days or he suffers death - He brought 5 goats think that would
smooth the matter over
11th Men struck work for higher wages - I consented
to give them 6 six dollars a month if they be-
10-haved well - If ill, I diminish it - so we hope
to start tomorrow - another mutiny quelled by M & me
12th the men sent are all slaves of the Banians &
came with a lie in their mouths - They were lascars
15or soldiers - they objected to going today so I wait
till tomorrow = orders given today not attended to
so I had to treat them as slaves and promised
on the word of an Englishman that I would shoot
the ringleader against my orders - Muhamad
20swore that he would kill them if they contended with
me and they gave in and but for Mabruki sick
we should go [ ] tomorrow
Unyembe 6 six dotis each
to Ujiji 3 three each of the Pagazi
25three pagasi 4 four [ ] each Ghamees Sudi Salem
from 12th February onw ards
LXXXVI
LXXXVI 13th Feby 1871 - Mabruki seized with [31]
choleraic purging detains us today - gave Muhamad
5 Pieces amerikano 5 Do Kanike & 2 frasilahs samsam
He gives me a note to Hassani for 20 thick copper bracelets
5Yesterday crowds came to eat the meat of the man who
misled James to his death spot - We want the man
who set the Mbanga men to shoot him - They were much
disappointed when the found that no one was killed
and are undoubtedly cannibals
10
[ ]
1[ ]th Friday - started today Mabruki making himself
very ill as all who have been at Nassick coddling school
do Muhamad roused him out by telling how I travelled
when much worse - chief gave me a goat & Muhamad an
15go{other} but in coming through the forest on the neck of the
mountain the men lost three & have to go back for them
and return tomorrow - Simon & Ibram were bundled
[ ] camp and imprudently followed me when they ca[ ]
up I told them to be off or I would certainly shoot them
LXXXVII
LXXXVII. 17th waiting at a village on the Western slope
for the men to come up with their goats if they have
gone back to the camp - Muhamad would not allow
the deserters to remain among his people nor would
5it would only be to imbue the minds of my slav[ ]s
with their want of respect for all English and total
disregard of honesty & honour - They came after me
with inimitable effrontery believing that though I said
that I would not take them - they were so valuable I
10was only saying what I knew to be false - I warned
them off and they went away among Manyema -
The goats were brought by a Manyema man who
found one fallen in a pitfall & dead - He ate it & brought
one of his own in lieu of it - I gave him 10 strings of
15beads & he presented a fowl in token of good willl -
18th went on to a village on the Lulwa and on the
19th reached Moenemgoi who dissuaded me so
earnestly against going to Moenekurumbo for the
canoe of Molembalemba that I agreed not to venture
2020th to ford only one canoe now as 2 men of
Katomba were swept away in the other & drowned
They would not sell the remaining canoe so I go
N W on foot to Moene Lualaba where five large
canoes are abundant - grass & mud grievous but
25my men lift me over [ ] waters 21st Moenendebas
Mr andso twill be
When I am gone
LXXXVIII
LXXXVIII 21st arrived at Monandewa's vil. [32]
situated on a high ridge between two deep & difficult
gullies - People obliging & kind = chief's wife made a
fire for me in the evening unbidden - 22nd on N.W. to
5a high hill called Chibaude a yunde with a
spring of white water at the village on the top - Hunger
from some unknow cause but people cultivating
now on the plain below with a will - 23d on
to two large villages with many banana plants
10around but men said they were in fear of
the traders and shifted their villages to avoid
them - We then went on to the village Kahombogola
with a feeble old man as chief - country beautiful
and undulating - light green grass covers it all
15save at the brooks where the eye is relieved by
the dark green of lines of trees - grass tears the
hands and wets the extremities constantly - soil
formed of debris of granite rocks - rough &
stoney but everywhere fertile - one can rarely
20get a bare spot to sit down and rest
24th to a villag{villag}e near Lolinde R. then
cross Loengadze & sleep on bank of Luha R.
LXXXIX
LXXXIX to Mamohela welcomed by all the
Arabs - and got a letter from Dr Kirk and
another from the Sultan - and from Muha
mmad bin Nassib going to Karagwe
5all anxious to be kind Katomba gave
flour - nuts fowl & goat - a new way
opened to Kasongo's much shorter than
that I followed - I rest a few days &
then go on -
101st March 1871 I was to start this morning
but the Arabs asked me to take seven of their
people going to buy viramba as as they
know the new way the offer was gladly
accepted - I gave a note to Katomba
15to take my double barrelled gun at Ujiji
I pay him this for all his services &
he gives me a young she Soko to be carried
for me there Ujiji - She is a most friendly
little beast came up to me at once making
XC
XC her chirrup of welcome - smelled my clothing
& held out her hand to be shaken - I slapped her
palm without offence though she winced - She
began to untie the cord with which she was
5afterwards bound with fingers & thumbs
in quite a systematic way and on being
interfered with by a man looked daggers &
screaming tried to beat him with her hands
she was afraid of his stick and faced him
10putting her back to me as a friend = When
allowed to unloose herself she walked away
using the hands as crutches - treading on the
backs of the fingers on the spaces between
the first joint from the nail to the second
15the knuckles & back of the hand being held
perpendicularly - sometimes she walks
upright but the crutch movement in
which the feet are lifted forward together
is the common way of going - she holds
20out her hand for people to lift her up and
carry her quite like a spoiled child then
bursts into a passionate cry somewhat
like that of a kite wrings her hands quite
25naturally as if in despair & sometimes adds
a foot to make the appeal more tender -
she sits eighteen inches high - Her black
long hair was beautiful while she was tended
by her mother who was killed - she eats
30everything - comes and sits down on my
mat beside me as a child would do - covering
herself with a mat to sleep - makes a
nest of grass or leaves and wipes her
face with a leaf - - When wounded Soko
35stuffs leaves into the hole - is not mis
chievous as the monkeys are
MS.10703
XCI
XCI = I present[ ] my double barrelled gun to [33]
Katomba as he has been very kind called
away from Ujiji - He gave me the Soko
but will carry it to Ujiji for me - I have tried
5to refund all that the Arabs have ap-
-pended on me I left Mamohela on
2nd March and came to Munanbunda's
seven of Moenel{o}kila's people go with
us and serve as guides - on the 3rd
10we came to Monangongo 4th
[ ][ ] Headman hid himself from fear as
we are near to where bin Juma killed five
men - then on 5th we came through the
same dense forest country as on 4th
15and reached villages beside some hills
called Mobasilange - the village at
which we sleep is called Bazilange
most of them are very pretty and stand
on slopes the main streets East and
20West allow the bright sun stream his
XCII
XCII his clear rays from one end to the
other and dry up the moisture of the frequent
showers - a little verandah is often put
in front of the door - Here at dawn the
5family gathers round the fire and sit in
the enjoyment of the delicious air talking
over their little domestic affairs & waiting
till the sun warms them - the leaves of the
forest trees around and near them are
10bespangled with thousands of dew drops
the cocks crow & strut - the kids gambol &
leap - The older goats make believe fighting
the fairy scene is no doubt one never
forgotten by the young whose infamy is
15guilded by the scene picture whose beauty is quite
indescribable - Thrifty winces often make
the heap of grass roots which bake their
clay pots ^ or make salt serve as the morning fire - In some
cases all the village is deserted as we come
20near - doors are shut & a bunch of leaves
XCIII
XCIII on a handful of reeds green placed across
it to say "no entrance here" - chickens not caught
while all the fowls and goats are carried off
we{a}il for the hens & tell like the smoking fires
5of flight from the slave traders - They have
found out that I am not a slaver and
when the people remain stand calling
as I pass - "This is the good one ^ Bolongo" - "Friend
ship Friendship" - They sell their fine iron
10rings eagerly for a few beads - The rings are
out of fashion since beads came in -
"slaves" slap grown men in sheer wanton
-ness I have threatened to thrash them if
I see them but out of sight of me they do it
15still - The owners confess that all the mischief
is done by slaves, and then when Manyema
resent and kill the nasty curs vengeance
is taken by guns - The free men behave
better than the slaves = The Manyema are
20far more beautiful than other free of
XCIV
XCIV bond of Zanzibar - The men say "if we had
Manyema women we should get beautiful
children" Many women are very pretty & the men
handsome. Hands feet & limbs perfect - orifices
5of the nose widened by snufftakers - teeth not
filed except a little space between two front incisors
5th March 1871 We heard today that Muhamads
people passed us on the West with much ivory
I lose thus 20 copper rings I was to take from
10them and all the notes they were to make
for me of the rivers they crossed =
6th passed through very large villages with many
forges in active work - men followed us as if
to fight but we got them to turn peaceably
15we dont know who are enemies so many
have been maltreated & had relatives killed - The
rain of yesterday made paths so slippery that
the feet of all were sorely fatigued and on
coming to Mangara's I resolved to rest on 7th
20near mt Kimari - gave a cloth & beads in lieu
of a fine fat goat from chief a clever good man
XCV
XCV 9th March 1871. We marched about five hours 34
across a grassy plain without trees = Buga or Prairie
The torrid sun nearly vertical sent his fierce rays down
and fatigued us all - crossed two ^ Sokoye streams by bridges &
5slept at a village on a ridge of woodland overlooking
Kasonga - After two hours this morning we came
to a villages of this chief & at one were welcomed
by the safari of Salem Mokadam & I was given
a house - Kasonga is a very fine young man
10with European features and very clever and
good - Has four guns - Muhamads people
were led by his and spent all their copper for
some fifty frasilahs of good ivory {figure}
From this party men have been sent
15over Lualaba and about fifty frasilahs obtained
All praise Kasonga - - this place is about
6 miles ^ East from Lualaba and very healthy
10th Muhamads people are said to have gone
to Luapanga a powerful chief who told
20them they were to buy all their ivory from
XCVI
XCVI him - He had not enough and they wanted
to go on to a people who have ivory doorposts
But he said "You shall go neither forwards nor
backwards but remain here" He called an
5immense body of archers and said you must
fight these" - they killed Luapanga and many
of his people called Bahika - crossed a very
large river the Morombya or Morombwe
and again the Pembo river but dont seem
10to have gone very far North -
I wished to go from this in canoes but Ka-
songo has none so I must tramp for 5 or 6
days to Moene Lualaba to buy one if I have credit
with Abed
15
11th Had a long fierce oration from Amur in
which I was told again & again that I should be
killed and eaten - people wanted a white one
to eat = I needed 200 guns - must not go to die -
20I told him that I was thankful for advice if given by
one who had knowledge but his vehement threats
XCVII
XCVII were dreams of one who had never gone
anywhere but sent his slaves to kill people = He
was only frightening my people and doing me an
injury - Baker had only twelve people & came
5near to this. "Were the people cannibals" &c &c
I left this noisy demagogue after saying I thanked
him for this warnings but saw he knew not
what he was saying - The traders from Ujiji
are simply marauders, and their people
10worse than themselves thirst for blood more
than for ivory - Each longs to be able to tell a tale
of blood, and Manyema are an easy prey
Abed Hassani assaulted the people at Moene Lualaba's
and now they keep to the other bank and I am
15forced to bargain with Kasongo for a canoe
and he sends to a friend for one to be seen on
the 13th. This Abed declared to me that he would
not begin hostilities but he began nothing
else. The propsect of getting slaves over -
20-powers all else & blood blood flows
in horrid streams - The Lord look on it
He will have some tale to tell Muhamad Bogh[ ]
XCVIII
XCVIII 12th Rashid left today for Moene Lualaba
and I wait for Kasongos messengers to return
This spot is pretty - land undulating with trees
enough to be beautiful - Rice grows well and
5food is abundant - Kasonga says that he has
but one tongue & never lies - He is a contrast
to the Arabs who are nearly all liars - Musa &
party are fair average opennness of Moslem
falsehood - The only difference between their relig
10and them is that Muhamad lied to force his
countrymen to give up idolatry - The impudence
of his lies is their chief feature - As a trader he
went to Damascus & heard of St Paul's trans-
lation to the third heaven - Muhamad at once
15concieved the idea of a translation to the seventh
heaven - He had no miracle to shew in evidence
but without shame tried to appropriate Moses
bringing water out of the rock but with the characteris
tic of all false miracles for no reason - did not
20 [figure] take water as all others did on his camel and
worked his miracle where it was not needed =
XCIX
XCIX - 13th sent my people to examine the canoe
Kasonga's men did not reach it yesterday
afraid because their Headman Kasongo
gave Hassani & Muhamad's people ivory
5to assault the people at Moene Lualaba's
the trap laid was 25 copper bracelets given as debt
They killed many and captured many more
and hope not to return here
for no reason but to get slaves ^ - they
10were market people famed by all as
good & civil - Kasongo's goodness extends
only to the traders - I told him that they
would attack him too when they had finished
all about him and he would go yet in a
15slave yoke like other Manyema It is
terrible this Manyema trade - It is simply
stealing people and shedding human blood
as a sort of salvo or accompaniment
to be able to say we fought Kasongo's
20enemies - Marvel not at the matter
there be higher than they.
C
C - 14th March 1871 Men did not return yesterday
I heard only lately of Youngs search for me on Nyassa
and am deeply thankful to H M Govt and all
concerned in taking trouble to ascertain my fate
5Musa and his companions are fair average speci
-mens of the lower classes of half caste Muham-
-madans - one need never expect aught from them
but heartlessness and falsehood - one like them
-selves who had been properly punished by Manganja
10came past us and reported that he had been
plundered by Mazitu or Batuta 150 miles distant ^ N.
Musa was terrified & though I offered to go due
West till far past the beat of the Batuta as soon
as I turned my face thither ran away - they alleged
15no other reason whatever but fear of Batuta - The
Sultan who knows his people better than anyone
else entrusts all his reverence & money affairs to
Banians from India - His father did the same - He
says if he trusted his customs income in the hands of
20his own Muhammadan subjects they would steal it
35 all - purloin the whole - This being true of the better
CI
CI. 15th nothing better can be expected from their inferiors
Falsehood seems ingrained in their constitutions
No wonder that in all this region they have never tried
to propagate Islamism The natives soon learn to hate
5them, and slaving as carried on by the Kilwans
and the Ujijians is so bloody as to prove an
effectual barrier against proselytism - The
Muhamadans have in all their intercourse
in East Africa propagated nothing but
10syphilis and the domestic bug - In spreading
the disease they have been distressingly successful
even in Manyema - Filthy talkers all their
speech to the natives is too disgusting to
noticed - to avoid provoking ill will
15I listened as if I heard it not -
16th The party here assaulted Kasongo's people
yesterday and killed three men capturing as
usual women & children - My men not come
back - I fear engaged in some broil
2017th - 18th not come yet though two men were
sent after them 19th as I feared having killed
three men - I am clear of blood guiltiness -
no large canoe seen - people angry because Kasongo
sent traders to them killed their guide and wounded
25others - I can send no where without danger of my men
eagerly engaging in bloodshed -
20th I am heart sore and sick of human blood -
{figure}
21st Kasongo's brothers child died
30and he asked me to remain today while
he buried the dead and he would give
me a guide tomorrow - Being rainy
I stop willingly -
Dugumbe is said to purpose going
35down the river to Kanayumbe River
and build on the land Kanayumbe
which is a loop formed by the river & is large
{figure} He is believed to possess great power
of divination and even of killing
40unfaithful women
22nd I am detained another day by sickness of
one of the party - very cold rain yesterday from
Nor West - I hope to go tomorrow towards the
sokoni or great market of this region -
![Processed spectral image of a page from Livingstone's 1871 Field Diary (Livingstone 1871k:[5] pseudo_v1), detail. Copyright David Livingstone Centre and Dr. Neil Imray Livingstone Wilson: CC BY-NC 3.0](https://livingstoneonline.org:443/sites/default/files/section_page/carousel_images/liv_013723_0001-new-carousel_0.jpg "Processed spectral image of a page from Livingstone's 1871 Field Diary (Livingstone 1871k:[5] pseudo_v1), detail. Copyright David Livingstone Centre and Dr. Neil Imray Livingstone Wilson: CC BY-NC 3.0")
![Processed spectral image of a page from David Livingstone's "Retrospect to be Inserted in the Journal" (Livingstone 1870a:[3] pseudo_v4_BY), detail. Copyright National Library of Scotland and Dr. Neil Imray Livingstone Wilson: CC BY-NC 3.0](https://livingstoneonline.org:443/sites/default/files/section_page/carousel_images/liv_000211_0003_pseudoBY_940_by_592-carousel.jpg "Processed spectral image of a page from David Livingstone's \"Retrospect to be Inserted in the Journal\" (Livingstone 1870a:[3] pseudo_v4_BY), detail. Copyright National Library of Scotland and Dr. Neil Imray Livingstone Wilson: CC BY-NC 3.0")
![David Livingstone, Map of Central African Lakes, [1869], detail. Copyright National Library of Scotland: CC BY-NC-SA 2.5 SCOTLAND and Dr. Neil Imray Livingstone Wilson: CC BY-NC 3.0](https://livingstoneonline.org:443/sites/default/files/section_page/carousel_images/liv_003006_0001-new-carousel_0.jpg "David Livingstone, Map of Central African Lakes, [1869], detail. Copyright National Library of Scotland: CC BY-NC-SA 2.5 SCOTLAND and Dr. Neil Imray Livingstone Wilson: CC BY-NC 3.0")