0002

VI.   1 Novr 1866 {figure}
          6 AM 62˚
          8 A[  ] 81˚
          9 --- 85˚
5        10 --- 87˚
        11 --- 88˚
        12 --- 92˚
        1 PM - 92˚3 3

0003

24 Octr 1866 Slept
last night at Mpanda's
where there were four
furnaces & a smithy -
5Mpanda went with us
this morning & took
us due North through
a forest where we
came upon Elephants
10Elands - a wild hog
& the Hartebeest shot
one of the latter, but
we were soon put
about by two large
15villages in flight
from the Mazitu -
Mpanda wished to
leave us at once but
we prevailed on him
20to take us to a village
at the foot of a
0004
hill on the West where
we spend the night
It is possibly a mere
rumour that has
5made the villagers
flee but they believe
it & were in hasty
retreat to the mountains
going without paths
10which must have
hurt their feet but
what is pain when
one is in fear of dear
life - We spent the night
15at a village on the base of
a part of Zalamyama
which bears that name
other parts of the range
have different names
20but from the abundance
of game Zalamyama
0005
"full of game or meat" - It
will do for it all - perhaps
"wild beasts" range will be
best as Lions abound on
5it

25th Oct march N & by W - 1 h - 15
Heather like the "Rhinoster
bosch" of the colony occurs
in the forest which now
10covers the country - It is
thickly planted but ˄ with small
trees - marks of elephants
buffaloes &c everywhere
Heard the fowls of the fugitives
15of yesterday crowing on the
mountain as we wound
along its base - a rounded
mass in front is called
Pambe + 50 m + 1 = 3 hours
20to Pachimona -
see a large party flowing
from South - the chief
0006
of this place is fled to
the hill Pambe and
all the men are on the
look out for the Mazitu
5We require six men to
carry extra loads & on
that account have
to wait at villages till
it is convenient for
10the people & to start
and it never is con
venient in the afternoon
The Mazitu are at some
hills S E of this plunder
15ing & taking boys &
girls off - men &
women are killed --

the country in front of
Pachimona is not covered
20with trees so closely planted
but clumps of larger ones
appear & so do grassy spaces
0007
a mile or more wide - Several
large furnaces at Pachimona
the ore is yellow Haematite
which occurs in large
5masses abundantly all over
the country - the shape is
{figure} the men are all on
        gaurd - with bow in
        hand & quiver bound
10        on the back - some
        are ornamented with
        feathers on the head
        though they dont
intend to fight but to flee -

15

26 the{Octr} 1866 the chief came
last night from Pambe
mountain & prevailed on
us to remain a day -
He being the headman of
20many Chipeta I ought
to stop with him - as
we were tired we con-
-sented - his name is
Chimuna - his place
25Pamaloa - an unpleasant
0008
countenance but he is
favourable enough -
knows very little
beyond his own country
5nor does the oldest
inhabitant know
more - one toothless
patriarch had heard
of umbrellas & books
10but never saw either
till now -

All the people returning
today from the moun-
tain our presence
15inspires a little con-
-fidence - crowds come
to see the strange sight
of a white man - &
perhaps the poodle dog
20is as great a curiosity
told them a little about
Revelation from God
by His Son.

0009
{figure}

---

27 Octr March 1 h - 30 + 35
5+ 35 = 2- 40 + 40 + 30 =
3 - 50 - to Mapuio's vil
We passed several large
villages - each surrounded
by the usual hedge of
10Euphorbia and having
large & shady trees all about
it - Chimona got a
blister on his loins for his
0010
pains there and gave us
before starting a proof
that when his women were
at home he could be
5liberal in the shape of a
huge basket of porridge &
a fowl {figure} enough of
solids for a company
of soldiers - another person
10had just given us a mess
which served us all about
sixteen persons = & our
powers of stowage are
respectably large - We
15were on a level country
gently undulation &
oozing bogs at the bottom
or trough of the waves
Trees scarce & we see in
20the distance mountains
both East & West - When
we arrived at Mapuios
0011
he was as often happens
not to be seen but he gave
a hut & promised to cook
for us this evening --
5carriers of whom we have
to employ five growled & 2
gave back their cubits of
calico but I added a
few beads & we parted
10good friends - There is a
great deal of good in
these people - In cases of
milando they rely on
the most distant relatives
15& connections to main-
-tain their cause & seldom
do they rely in vain though
it costs a great deal of
time and at certain seasons
20as at present time is
precious - the men all
appear with hoe or axe
on shoulder & often
0012
they only sit down at their
labour to look at a{u}s as we
pass - resuming it again
when we have well wended
5on our way

Many of the men have
large slip{t}s in the lobe of the
ear which makes that
part hang down loosely
10the front teeth & often
only the two central ones
are hollowed at the
edge {figure} many
have quite the Grecian
15facial angle and
delicate features - Many
too have delicate limbs
small feet & hands are
general with few spur
20heels - not more than
among ourselves -

Clapping the hands in
various ways means
0013
"Permit me" - "Do me the
favour" "allow me to
pass" "Thanks" - "respectful
introduction" & leave
5taking - Inferiors when
called respond by clapping
twice = this is "fair coming"
"Hear, Hear" - assent or
negation - they are
10very punctilious among
each other - A large
Ivory bracelet marks
the headman of a village

Mapuio sent a calabash
15of new beer just after it
had been cooked to us in
the boalo or strangers
place - It is refreshing
& shewed kindliness -
20#The huts have partitions
in them which make
them quite dark
0014
{figure}
roof all plastered over
with clay from anthills
before thatch is applied

5

---

28th Octr 1866 - Had
a long talk with Mapuio
if that can be so called
which goes through an
10interpreter - country
in a poor state for
the Mazitu have no
check & come every
now & then & strip
15people of all their
food - we shall be
obliged to make
westing after
0015
getting to Mokosa &
Kangene perhaps go
to Undi in Senga -
#the Kalolo here have
5no guns except the
native pistol which
can only make a
noise {figure}

10

---

29 Octr 1866 March
North{West}wards 45 m in a
lovely morning - all
busy hoeing in the
15cool of the day + 30 m
cross Akande coming
from hills in South
+ 35 = 1 - 50 - Went
but five miles - the
20next place being
0016
far & through an ill peopld
country - the Nkande
goes into the Bua -
At Mokosa's the
5first shower - a
thunder one - fell - the
sun being right over-
-head

---

---

10

30th Octr 1866 a
very pleasant morning
after the rain - Carriers
not to be got as all
are taking advantage
15of last evenings rain
to sow their grain
Some people had
gone to Chawa with
provisions to buy
20slaves & returned
this morning

0017

The Chawa are N.W. of
this and as they have lost
all their grain by the
Mazitu famine prevails,
5to avoid coming into
contact with famishing
people and suffering
hunger ourselves we
turn off to the Westward

10

---

31st Octr 1866 March
West a little south 2 h - 5 m
see ten wild hogs - country
covered with thickly
15planted forest - trees small
no people & less water than
usual + 45 - come to the
Leūe ^ 20 yards wide & deep a considerable
Rivulet flow West-
20-wards + to Loangwe 1 - 5 + 20 m
Chigumo[ ]ire = 4 - 15

0018

1st Novr 1866 an 1 h - 10
beyond Chigumokire
Rr we came to a village
country covered with
5a dense mass of small
trees - many elep[  ]{ha}nts
& buffaloes in it at
certain seasons but we
saw none - + 1 h + 30
102 40 to Kangéne's
village on some rugged
granite mountains -
- fled from the Mazitu
then halfway up we
15caused alarm, and the
chief sent down for
our spokesman to
explain the strange
phenomenon of a
20white man - a thing
he had never seen
before - this detained
0019
us some time & then the
chiefs brother came & invited
us to come up to a house
prepared for us - Kangene
5peering over some rocks
as we passed - sent word
that he would see us in
the evening - This he
considers dignity - a
10fine vista of level land
lies behind us Eastward
open spaces are covered
with yellow grass - the
rest is green from fresh
15foliage - the hue having
now generally changed -
We were travelling over
mica schist which at
last as we approached the
20mountains became
slaty - the mountains are
granite with pieces of the
schist in it

0020

Kangene - a great heavy
public house keeper looking
man came within fifty
yards & sent to beg
5gunpowder - His brother
had been killed he said
by Mazitu & he was afraid
of us - Asked "if Mazi[  ]
wore clothing & had gun[ ] [ ]
10told him how other chi[   ]
had treated us which
shamed him a little - and
he went away saying that
he would give as much
15as any one but he
gave nothing and
by his account it is
impossible to go on
any further
20
[      ]

0021

2d Novr 1866 Remain
at Kangéne - a disagreable
man - α Andromedae
                95° 1 30 = 14° 8.38

5

---

3d Simon ill of a
bilious attack prevents
us from moving
rain & thunder in the
10distance on 2d and
here today -

---

[      ] vr 1866 At
[      ]e's Rain & thunder
15[    ]mon better and
[    ]pe to start on
[    ]Kangene demanded
prepayment for his
men & that prepayment
20enorm[ ]us so we took
the lo[  ]s forward &
[      ] [ ]heir return

0022

On morning of the
8th Oct{Novr} 1866 - 1 - 35
+ 1 - 15{20} = 2 - 55 - to
Kangenes on M Liongwe
5When the headman found
that he could get on without
his people he sent and
offered them as far as
Chinyama's on a range
10of mountains we saw in
the North - Was civil at
last though it is not in
his nature to be polite -
The Babisa come here as
15slave traders =

After all he could not get
men all had gone to
work - this being their
busy time - He brought
20two fellows whom he
had primed with beer
& one babbled about
0023
1 h return 34 m + 75 - 30 = 139
3 - 19
being afraid of being killed
by us in front - asked
5whom we had killed behind
Kangene is the most
useless silly old woman
of a chief we have met

9th Novr 1866 - slept at
10our sheiling & this morning
left Abraham & Baraka
with the things & came
on with what we could
carry - on reaching the
15hill Chimbimbe we saw
a village of blacksmiths
and employed one to
shew us the way - He
recommended the
20town of Chabuela on
the south side of the
mountains in front
0024
called Chisia

On the morning of the
9th Novr 1866 1 h - 25
to hill 1 - 15 + 1 - to Mando
5+ 20 m         4 hours to Chabuela's
#Nsative hills - Bose on West hills

the people here on the Rr
Mando are Chawa
or Ajawa & they
10extend away to the
West to Bose range
& another further
South called Nyango

10th sent back to
15bring up the Loads
behind - a large puff
adder killed - a lion
seen trotting along
not clearly but it
20had the loose trot of
0025
that animal similar
to that of a dog - Smiths
mauling away at their
iron all day - stone
5sledge hammer has handles
of inner bark of trees
and two men strike at
one piece of iron
{figure}
10

0026

12th & 13th Eating a
buffalo I shot &
healing my galled
foot - a lion growled
5at us in night but
did nothing - the
villagers kept calling
out for hours after
wards in order to
10scare him away by
the sound of the human
voice

A kind of wild fig is
pleasant when ripe

15

14th O{Novr} 1866
Leave Kalumlei &
go Northwards
+ 1 + 40 + 1h + 20 =
3 hours to a village
0027
about midway between
Kalumbi and the mountain
of Kanyindula - The
villagers are smiths &
5like those on the Mando
very civil - A stockade
the remains of which
are still seen at Mando
enabled the inhabitants
10to resist the Mazitu but
Elephants & buffaloes
destroyed it during the
temporary absence of
the people - these animals
15are fond of the fig &
Euphorbia which usually
is the stockade & growing
It is said that lions
sometimes break into
20the huts through the roof -
Elephants certainly do for
we saw a roof destroyed
by one = there is a
want of an order of
25prophets or something
0028
answering to it - but
the politeness observed
towards each other by
these people is quite
5remarkable - When I had #
paid the five carriers
today - one said let us
go - to which the other
replied let us first
10instruct the headman
here & addressing him
he said "you have given
the stranger a house
see that he has carriers
15quite early tomorrow
morning who will
hand him safely into
Kanyindula's care &
say to Kanyindula that
20he is expected to per
form all the duties to a
stranger - Having invited
them to come on them
selves they excused
0029
themselves on the ground
of the{their} village being short
handed & took leave by
saying "let us run away
5from you"

the country with its long
slopes covered with
fresh green foliage, alter
nating with patches of
10yellow grass not yet
burned off is very
pretty - a fruit tree is
left & with the wild
fig is an agreable change
15from the low bush
which has sprung up
since the country has
been depopulated by
Mazitu raids.       People
20are gathering caterpillars
off the Masuko for
a relish = the charcoal
burning strips the country
of trees except small ones

0030

15th Novr 1866

    A report came this
morning that the Mazitu
were at Chanyindula's
5to which place we were
about to start = villagers
advised our remaining
awhile to see whether
they would come this
10way or pass Eastwards
away to the South - they
are kept in perpetual
alarm yet work away
notwithstanding - some
15were build[   ] a furnace
while keeping a lookout
from the big anthill on
which all furnaces are
placed - air delicious
20no mazitu came &
we remained overnight

0031

16th Novr 1866

march 25 & cross the
Bua - 8 yards wide
& knee deep - then 40 m
5to end of mountains
of Kanyindula = Scenery
among mountains
very lovely - Large trees
more numerous &
10large red & white patches
on the mountains shew
where the red soil is bared
by grass burned off
- white and [ ]ther dead
15grass [    ]cks - some
trees h[   ] still a strong
reddish tinge - The leaves not
having changed yet - Came
to Bua again coming
20from North where it is
said to arise - Dambo West
                                                of this
0032
1 - 5 + 1 - 15 to Bua again
+ 35 = + 45 = 3 - 40
to Kanyindula's vil
The Bua rises in the
5North of this (Kanyenje)
in Mchinje mountains
Nombe rume is in the
same direction but
further = It is level
10plains West of the
mountains among
which we now are
Greyheaded men
never heard of the
15Portuguese [    ]ng up to
Cazembe - [    ] [ ]onkey
of Montevro [    ]
certainly have been
remembered though
20the man might be forgotten

0033

Among the crowd sent by
the chief if we should
remain one unintellectual
looking man had 20
5elephant rings on his
arm - Had killed them
all by spearing them,
but this was before the
Mazitu came into the
10country = the chief was
out collecting charcoal
for smelting iron ore
when we arrived - this
occupation is very
15ancient [      ] one scarcely
goes a [     ]er of a mile
any[     ] without seeing
slag - [   ]ned pipes - &
remains of furnaces
20with fragments of pottery
People have been coarser
potters than at the
0034
Lake - few ornaments
on the pots & those in
dots {figure} the
chawa are now ended
5and in front we have
Attumboka {figure}

It is curious
that the big sledged stone
hammer is not called
10hammer at all but
Kama - Ayundo is
the name for hammer
all over [      ] part of
the country [      ]

0035

17th Novr 1866 at
Kanjenje the vil of Kan-
-yindula - Here the people
are Apiri - a lad
5from the Echew {figure} has
markings thus
The M{A}piri say
that they were
taught to smelt iron
10by Chisumpi which
they add is the name of
Mulungu - - they came
from Nyassa originally
= know [    ]ing of Earolites
15but s[     ]e lightning
struck [      ] trees sometimes
thun[     ] stones are
unknown = Matarara
or hail is known

0036

Mfū or Mō with
sweet scented leaves
yields a plum {figure}
Buabwa an edible
5fruit tree -

Mbéu a climbing plant
with fruit having small
seeds & very pleasant
acid pulp with flowers
10in shape like cloves
{figure}     smooth
                rather
                glossy
                leaves
15{figure}

0037

Rain fell heavily yester
day with loud thunder
consequently all the
people & the chief are
5at their gardens to
day the 18th Nov /66
putting the seed into
the ground - Kanyundwe
has been much more
10generous than we
anticipated from the
scarcity which has
followed the Mazitu
raids - He has a stern
15look but is pleasant
to converse with -

0038

19th Novr 1866

    Remain at Kanyenje
on account of the rains-
sewing a tent of calico -
5people all sowing their
seed -- Divided a box
of powder among my
own people = 50 lbs for
them to buy goats
10or anything else they
like - this reduces
our extra loads to
three - or rather four
for Simon is sick
15again

Mzie a good song bird
with loud voice

People assent by
lifting up the head
20instead of nodding
as we do

0039
{figure}

---

5

20 Novr 1866

March up valley
with Bua on our left
a very lovely valley indeed
0040
1 h N. + 30 m + 20 =
1 - 50 m to source of the
Bua = Kanyinjere
- Mponda is name
5of the spot - the vil.
we spend the night
in is embowered
in old wild fig trees
& Euphorbias -
10a sepulchral grove
stands a little below
the fountain eye -
we had a house
full of Tam{n}perns at
15Kanyundula's & they
have left their effects
on my body - the
headman could not
give men without
0041
prepayment & as it turned
out he could only give
three so we went on &
send men back from
5Bua fountain at
which he was displeased
but we did not mind
that - Rain made the
short march palateable
10the eye is on 13° 40' S.
Three miles N N W - an
other set of streams flow
one goes to Fundo NW
another N.E to Busa & it
15into Bua

---

21st Novr 1866

March NW from the
fountain of Bua &
20rise a little in alt.
then descend though in
0042
the same valley - country
very lovely - more like
English than African
scenery - All is refreshing
5to the eye - all plants
leaves washed clean
& fresh herbage springing
up over all the ground
Birds singing joyfully
10High winds from
the East or South
East bring great
masses of clouds
over the hills
15these give the rain
Could not prevail
on carriers to come
further than an hour
& three quarters -
0043
1 h NNW + 45 m to stockaded
village = 1-45 - Refused
admittance till the
headman who was out
5somewhere came - We
found that he had some
food and as we have
been on short commons
we remained to buy
10some - We are making
our way Northwards
where plenty of food is
reported

---

15

22d Novr 1866 leave
Mokatoba & march 1 h
to cross Kasamba 3{4} yards
wide & knee deep very
rapid - cross by a
20fallen tree & 2{3}0 m Fresh
spoor of elephants
+ 30 m to Sandili + 35 + 40 m
0044
= 3 - 15 + 30 = 3 - 45
to Pasilubi's village
It is situated on the base
of a rocky hill near
5the Sandili which flows
away NW into the
Loangwa - no food to
be had here so we hasten
on as fast as carriers
10will let us - groaning
in spirit & not know
ing what to part with
so as to make nine
loads only

15

---

23 Novr 1866

From Pasiluba's 45 m
course 30° E. to range of hills
+ 1 h out from hill to a
20mile wood undulating
country - hills 365 + 333°
0045
+ 20 m to water = 2 - 5 + 30
= 2- 35 + 35 + 30 + 25 = 4 - 10{5}
to Beuri's vil -
the whole may be termed a
5wooded country but where
the population is dense
the trees are kept down to
the size of low bush =
Where fewer people live
10the charcoal burning keeps
the forest to the size of
hop poles growing from
pollards about two or three
feet from the ground - In
15places where (as now) near
Loangwa the people have
been for some time away
the forest are of larger trees
but none very large - The
20sepulchral groves & patches
round villages shew what
the country if untouched
by man would become

Mazitu came all
25about this vil but it
0046
stockaded & on a river
let they did not attack
took all food from the
surrounding villages
5& departed

The people here call them
selves Echewa - The
village is crowdd{ded} and
many children run
10about in the narrow
streets - The men have
the hair dressed as if
the hair of elephants
tails were stuck round
15the head - women wear
small lip ring & a
straw in the lower
lip - clothing in front
very scanty - men
20know nothing of
distant places

0047

25th Sunday at Zeore's
an intelligent headman -
rain fell yesterday &
as we spoke of praying to
5God some thought it
was for rain but we
disabused their minds

{figure}
0048

26th Novr 1866

Leave Zeore's - carriers
refuse to go unless pre-
-paid - so we go on along
5the Lokuzhwa 1 - 40 m to
a village on some stream
+ 50 m + 50 m + 1 h ==
4 h = 20 m ^ NW to Mpande's
the valley of the Lokuzhwa
10abounds in lillies
the Amaryllis - they
are so many where
the grass has been
cleared off by the hoe
15as to overpower
all the colour of the
blackish red soil
Elephants had been
digging their food
0049
during the night - We
passed several villages
the country when not
cultivated is covered
5with diminutive forest
Mountains appear both
East & West about 15
miles off - We are in
the slope of the Loangwa
10of Zumbo & have been
ever since we came
to the Sandili - This
Lokusha is sluggish
& I did not intend to
15put it down at all
because it is only a
trickling rill at Zeore's
o[ ] water stands in pools
but it is our way N -
0050
North - the villages are
all on it - (sent back
men for our loads =)
advantage is taken of its
5windings & stockades
put where it goes round
three parts of a circle -
The country abounds
with a fine flowering
10pea ^ chilo{u}be - - the flowers are blue
and at present collected
by the people & boiled
as a relish to their porridges

Last night a loud
15clapping of hands was
followed by a woman
putting herself into an
extacy by screaming
she then gave utterance
20to a string of five syllable
sentences - having reference
to rain - she was ans
0051
-wered by the men - "Moio"
"Moio" at every sentence
"Linyama uta" was one
of the most frequently repeated
5sentences - shewing that the
Pythoness liked meat killed
by the bow -

It is apparently but one
or two families of Africans
10that have ingrained in
them the idea of property
in man that can be
sold - Zulus - Kaffirs -
Bechuanas have it not.
15Arabs have - & so have
these Manganja and
Waiyau

28th nursing the sick
Fever pills & quinine
20cures in one day if
the patient will travel
next day -

0052

All the people are very
particular to give a relish
with the porridge in the
shape of boiled beans
5- leaves & flowers of peas
They must feel the
need of something more
rich in flesh formers
than porridge - I have
10seen men reject a mess
of it though hungry because
no dewa or relish was
with it - When asking
the name of chilobe
15peas which are very
abundant on the
highlands the people
asked if we had more
in our country on
20replying in the negative
they looked with pity
on us - what a
0053
wretched place you must
live in {figure}
{figure}

0054

29th Novr Lunars -
We could easily get
rid of our extra luggage
but I expect to be
5detained during the
very heavy rains &
must have where with
all to live on then

---

10

30 Novr 1866 March
for Chilunda's N.W.
1 - 35 + 1 + 35 + 30 =
3 - 40 to Chilunda
or Embora's two
15names for same
man - We are still
on the Lokuzhwa
now a sand stream
of about 20 yards
20water in pools
0055
a large population is
collected here from the
Mazitu raids - people
on Loangwa steal slaves
5& come here to buy
food - they have lost
all - α Andromedae {figure}
{figure}

0056

1st Decr 1866

Emboro gave us a
good supply of flour
a cock & some ground
5nuts in return for
our cloth - with the
same cloths we buy
a goat & two kids &
a basket of flour - A
10lot of Babisa are
found in all the villages

---

3d Decr march
1 - 10 through a hilly
15country covered with
dwarf forest grass
& bushes + 40{50} m + 40
+ 30 + 15 = 3 - 25
to Kandes vil
20on Lokuzhwa
0057
It is surrounded with a
dense hedge of bamboo &
a species of fig bush -
Kande is a fine tall man
5- a smith - as all here are
A volunteer joined us -
he had been bought at
Chipeta & left here - asked
M{K}ande & Emboro's men
10if the statement were
true & they sayd it was -
another man offered to go
but generally they are
bad characters so I declined
15if it were given out that
we wished men we could
get plenty, but of the
bad thievish sort -
a continuous tap tap
20tapping is common
in the villages up here
It shews that bark
0058
cloth is being made soft
by a hammer the
head of which is Ebony
{figure} & it is tied to the
5        handle - the face is
        cut into small
        square or
        lozenge shaped spaces
{figure} or {figure} this tapping
10                softens &
partially separates the
fibres - when taken
from the tree it is put
into a muddy water
15hole - there it steeps till
the center part separates
easily by a knife &
then begins the tapping
{figure} of Rhinoceros
20        horn with a
        single grove on face

0059

4 Decr 1866 - 1 hour
- 25 + 1 + 25 = 2 50
to Katette a water
among the hills - it
5was very hot and
we anticipated a
thunders shower which
we had & no mistake,
wetting us through our
10coverings - saw spoor
of Zebras today - spent
a miserable night - wet
& purging - morning
muggy, with rolling
15thunder in distance
clouded all over - We
have come through
forest of good size
ever since we left Kande
20& cross a range of hills

0060

5th Decr 1866

1 h + 1 - 10 + 35 to
water dried up + 20 to
turn off to a village
5& in 25 reach it
say 3 - 5 to reach a
village among bamboos

6th Ill all day

---

10

7th Decr 1 - 30 + 20
Mesumbe's vil +
50 m + 20 = 3 hours
to Mparawe hill
where a village is perched
15among the masses of
rocks on its northern
side - chief ill of toothache
it was difficult to find
a hut & when we did it
20was full of bugs -

0061

Babisa slave traders
come here - and now
they have begun mar
-auding among Manganja
5for supplies of captives
Muasi's brother fled
here from them - and
the Mazitu are out
just now on the S.W.
10where three stockades
fell before them.

In various villages &
particularly in this one
we see miniature huts
15very neatly made in some
cases & plastered - These
are made when a
child or relative dies &
when those who remain
20here cook any beer or
nice food a small
portion is put inside
the hut for the departed
0062
spirit which is supposed
to enjoy it -

Here the Lokuzhwa is
swimming with yesterdays
5rains which were heavy
about 50 yards wide -
a rocky bottom of
fine grained schist
injected with granite
10& many deep & large pot
holes in it - People wisely
prefer rain water to it
Other two volunteers of
the Waiyau have joined
15us - many would
come but we dont
like stragglers who are
often bad characters

0063

8th Decr 1866

The chief begged us to stay
a day that we might obtain
information as to the
5country in front - &
he sent Muasi's brother
to give all he knew - He
says we go tomorrow
sleep in jungle & next
10day cross Loangwa
then through Babisa
country to Lobemba
as he terms Bemba
We remained for
15washing clothes as the
parts we have lately
passed over had very
little water except in
springs or little wells
20We went three hours
from Katette without
meeting water - a wonder
in this region -

0064

                from 12 to 15 inches
        Chiteta a long pod ^ growing
on a tree #the bean is pounded
{figure} & put into a filter
5        of cloth bark - &
        water poured on it
        till the the astringent poison is
        extracted - Mositsane

                8th Dec

10        {figure}
0065

9th Decr 1866

Sunday at Mbarawe

a poor child whose
mother had died was
5left destitute & sat in this
village calling its Mama by
name - the women told
it she was coming as
the servants told the poet
10Cowper of his mother -
gave it a piece of bread
but it was too far
gone seems dead today
women will not nurse
15a child who is not a
relation -

an alarm of Mazitu
sent most of the people
up the rocky sides of
20Mparawe this morning
The villages were success
ful against a party of
0066
of Babisa & now are
getting ready to go against
them -

Two smart young
5Waiyau men joined us
at Kande's - as I thought
as carriers but they
continued with us &
wish to go on where we
10go - They were bought
at Mbanga & Mukate's
by Babisa but the
Mazitu killed all their
Manganja masters &
15now they are free so
we engage them & another
a Chipeta man thus
making our number
twelve - if I had one
20more I would be
independent of carriers

0067
{figure}
0068

10th Decr 1866 --

50 m N. + 40 Do + 40
+ 35 = 2 - 45 x 35 - 3.20
Muasi decieved us by
5sending a guide who
hid himself in a hut
in first village we came
to - We then came on
with all our loads
10carried by our own
men - a great comfort
We are in the forest
or country deserted
on account of Mazitu
15It rains every day
& the grass & plants rush
up literally with
astonishing rapidity
We hope to get to
0069
Loangwa tomorrow
Chiteta is the Mositsane
of the Bechuanas but
they dont know how
5to extract the astringent
matter by filtering as
is done here - The
Motunda fruit is ripe
& many people collect
10& eat it - Passed over
much fine grained
schist like that at
Lupata - It is succeeded
by granite with large
15flakes of talc in it -
Birds sing gaily in the
mornings - camp in forest

---

---

11 Decr 1866 detained
20by set in rains - We
have lost much
time by the rainy season
0070
& more by our means
of carriage being insufficient
because hired carriers
tried to make the day
5as short as possible
& between three & four
hours were en[   ]h
for us all all - If
no village existed at
10about three hours
one nearer was taken
We have been obliged too
to avoid Mazitu &
Mazitu pillaged places

15

---

0071

12th Decr 1866 = 1 - 35
N. across well wooded
undulating country
- trees dripping & grass
5laden with rain - birds
all making melody
+ 1 - 15 ^ + 20 + 30 = 3 40 to nest of a
Marabou on a Baobab
also a light coloured
10sun bird with very red
throat (male) though
the tree was not in flower
saw them picking out
insects from bark &
15leaves - nest no tube
but mouth below

{figure}
0072

young of Marabon
give a rough chuck
ck{h}uck on seeing the
old ones = Elands
5Zebras = Wildebeests ^ Pallahs
Rhinoceros - Buffaloes
Reed bucks & Tsetse
today = spend night
in Forest - Mopane
10Mositsane or chiteta
& a new tree abound

---

13 Decr 1866

1 - 25 N. country
15full of game - arrive
at Tokosusi which
rises at Nombi Rume
20 yds & knee deep NE + 30 along River
searching for a ford
0073
Zebras & Gnus have
young just now +
1 - 15 to Pallah female
dark stripe down hip
5behind - black points
white belly & tail - 4 teats

Found the strangest
flower I ever saw
72 flowers united to
10one stem with a flat
round root + 1 h =
4 10 {figure} to sleeping
        place in
        forest near
15        an ^ old Mazitu
        encamp
        -ment

0074

14 th Decr 1866 - 1 - 40
West in Mopane forest
+ all of water + 1 -
+ 20 = 3 + 1 - 5 = 4 - 5
5to vil of Maranda on
black alluvial plain
very adhesive soil
the Mopane forest
near at last cut up
10into gullies full of water
roads all slushy &
often flowing with water
marks of game plenty
saw Pallahs only -
15All the water was flowing
into the Loangwa West
or N. West - People
afraid of us - Trees
along the watercourses
20large & so are the Mopane
0075
We found Marandas vil
to be on the left bank of
the Loangwa here a
stream of 100 yards wide
5It is said to rise in the
North - people have
scarcely any food -
The Mazitu assaulted
them three times & were
10beaten off but this
prevented their planting
& reaping - the head
man Maranda is at
Mparawe =

15

15 th Decr 1866 -
Cazembe of the Babisa
is our next stage
after crossing the
Loangwa & there it is
20hunger too! Some atumboku
submitted to Mazitu rule &
crossed them over Loangwa

0076
{figure}

                yellow ground
                with
                markings
5                rai[  ] of
                ala[    ] rocko
                late
                stamena
                5 with
10                double pink
                heads like
                hay forks

15

---

Mokunde = 1 ^ m Tambala
if they embark there - they
20can go by boat to Tanganyika
Bananjwa are at Motarnba
8 days to Lobemba

0077

---

      a flake of reed is
      often used as a
        sharper cutting
5        instrument than
        a knife in surgi
        -cal operations
        among the natives

        

---

        16 th Decr 1866
10        crossed the Loangwa
        this morning the
        people having no
      food to sell we must
    push on - River is
15from 70 to 100 yards
wide - with ^ willows and alluvial
banks covered with
forest - Sandy bottom
0078
It is at present in flood
brown & muddy - w{W}e
went up right bank
N.W & then N. 50 m
5+ 1 - N + 1 - N

{figure}
0079

17th Decr through a
bushy country 1 - 30 -
to LoangwaTámazi 40 yds wide
No hill or height to be
5seen - Game abundant
but wild + 45 m = 2 - 15
+ 1 to Poku or Tsebula
3 = 15 + 15 3 - 30 the Tamas{z}i
rises in a range of
10hills on our N
NE & N.W. called
here Machinga a
Babisa = crossed the
Tamazi 30 yds & waist
15deep = strong current
3 - 30 to hut in forest
plenty of game - had
no path & very tiresome
forest & grassy
20plains -

0080
{figure}
0081

18th Decr 1866 - through
Mopane forest - trees very
large & no brushwood
below - land quite level
5can see far beneath
the trees which are
planted some 20 or 30
yds apart - course
E.N.E. to Molenga's
10could not get a guide
to shew us to Cazembe's
must go first to an
insignificant village
out of our course & the
15man reported himself
at every hamlet in
the way - my people
grumble at being led
in pathless jungles so
20I submit to zig zags
1 h 10 m + 20 + 45 N.
Mopane Forest + 30 Do = 2 - 45

0082

19th Decr 1866 Wandered
on the Mopane flat in Afternoon
1 h = 40 m - over same flat
covered with large Mopane
5trees - Pallahs gnus &
zebra's abundant but
they can see one well
in the flat with trees the
lower part all without
10branches - bright carpet
of green - other parts
thrown into little heaps
by crabs probably -
People place corn
15granaries in these flats
with no track to them
to preserve a supply
in case of Mazitu raids
King hunters abound
20& make the air ring
with their stridulous
notes -

0083

1 - 40 + 1 - 20 + 40 =
3 - 40 N to kill kudu
                horns 3 feet straight
a fine male = We have no
5other food - I get a little
goat's milk with tea -
the people said why not
sell your goods to us
for slaves & ivory - instead
10of going to Lobemba with
them = Malenga said "Why
come to us if he wont
by{uy} slaves & ivory - the
reply was we were mis
15-led & had no desire to go
near him = They have
very suspicious
manners & will not
do anything without
20trying to get payment
beforehand = anxious
to get through Babisa country

0084

20th Decr 1866 -

---

35{40} m to vil of Cazembe
Kudu a young male
55 ft 6 = high - horns
3 feet measured on the
straight - Cazembe's
a miserably poor
collection of villages
10his power destroyed
by Mazitu - who were
taken across Loangwa
by Atumboka who
submitted to them
15but I suspect that
we are not at the
real vil of Cazembe -
He is afraid of us

0085

---

All the "heavy hung" Africans
are slave dealers or
vendors - the more moderate not

5

---

{figure}

---

21 st Decr 1866

10

50 m N. to Nyamadza R
coming from N &
falling with Loangwa
about 40 yds wide - knee
deep - sandy bottom
15Muddy water - Pass 30 m
0086
through low hills of
sandstone with fossils along Nyamazi
+ 1 h over banks of
well rounded shingle
5= 2 - 20 as soon as we
ascended the hills which
were about 200 ft high
the shingle began & here
rain had fallen - we looked
10back on a large valley
that of Loangwa on which
no{little} alteration of level
could be detected - a range
of mountains now
15appears some 20 miles
in front + 30 ^ NW along
R Nyamazi + 15 = W.
3 = 5 country forest
open with large trees
20among less & baobabs
Lignum vitae & ebony
Game & Tsetse

0087

22 Decr 1866 course N.
West up Nyamasi 45 m
towards the mountains
+ 55 m Do + 1 h = 2 40
5great banks of shingle
all over country + 30 m
Kapata = Masenda
{figure} 342 N from Nyamazi
+ 30 ^ N to kill [      ]{Bush} buck
10= 3 - 40 to vil on N bank
to which we cross = Water
thigh deep - Willow banks
where we sleep under a fine
spreading ficus - very
15tired of meat diet &
all are soon fatigued on it
Hard lines ever since we
left Kande's

---

20

23 Decr 1866 - 1 - 10
N.W. rock underlying
shingle coarse & then fine
grained soft sandstone

0088
1 - 5 = to Motondatre + 45
= 3 - N.W. + 1 h + 15 to
4 15 to Kavimtra's
vil

5{figure}

---